Okay, it's some 13, 14 hours since I applied the finish. Out of 17 distinct separate places where there is finish, I counted at least 13 or 14 with finish defects. Still, I am unaccustomed to my finish having problems. The strangest places are where it's shown up. Like the entire guide will be perfect, then there is one spot, on the top of the guide foot, where there is a "pock" mark, I
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I have a product called system 20 Fisheye Eliminator. It is a European product equivalent to 3M's Soothie product. I'm sure it wouldn't even take part of a drop. Also, could I not put a piece of Madeira thread in my Epoxy and won't it also neutralize the silicone? I'm afraid I don't understand this part of the solution. I've read it from Billy. It makes little sense to me.
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Okay.
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What...24-30 hours...seriously?
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Alcohol wipe is likely the problem? You know, I do mountains of epoxy work and I often clean with Denatured Alcohol prior to application and I've never had a problem. Now, I was concerned about this so I last cleaned it about 4 hours prior to applying the Dura Gloss. The only potential problem would be possibly remaining solvent, which, with Denatured Alcohol would be gone very quickly anyway.
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Thanks John, sorry it kept giving me an error "Must include your full name and email address". I had already done that. Well, it kept posting. Anyway, I cleaned this entire rod with Denatured Alcohol at least twice and more like 3 times. Thanks Ron. My mixing contained came out of one of those plastic sleeves. I don't think so. I'll tell you guys, I've never seen anything lik
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Those of you with experience with U-40 Dura Gloss LS Supreme (not high build), have any of you had problems with it leveling? I'm having considerable problems with it and I find it very strange. I just switched over from RodDancer ThreadMaster and, of course, I used FlexCoat for the prior 25 years. I bought this Dura Gloss LS Supreme last Fall. Maybe it's this given 8 ounce package I bought, b
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I assemble the grip first using fiberglass layup epoxy (US Composites) on a 1/4" mandrel coated with wax. (Mine are all cored with foam but it will work the same if just made of cork). Then I take it to the lathe and form it. Then I break it free from the mandrel. Then I chuck the reamer (Forecast Dream Reamer) in my lathe (the metal part that screws into the handle) and progress up to the s
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Okay...doing it the "Herb" way for 9 Fuji KL-H Series Titanium Torzite guides (including tip top) costs, hmm, $170 bucks with shipping for the average Joe. Right Herb? (I'm glad I buy wholesale) I guess their cost makes them the best, right Herb? Recoils are too noisy, huh? The other inserts are just too heavy and too much mass in my view (I've used the SIC's 100's of times so I'm aware
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Okay, thanks Herb!
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Okay, thanks Herb.
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Yep, I have. It's great..
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Alright, thanks Norman
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Thanks Norman
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Thanks Herb.
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Sure John.
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Use the KR Concept...it's the best!
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Okay, Herb knows the best way.
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What Herb said..
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It really depends on the blank. If it's really smooth I put them directly on the blank. Those labels are really nice and I've never had one lift from the epoxy application. Can't do that with the newest NFC X-Ray blanks. They are not sanded, they are left raw. Gorgeous blanks, but, you'll either have to sand it smooth and put it on or just put down a leveling coat of epoxy. Regardless, do NOT tou
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Say, one more question you guys. Have any of you used the anti-silicone additives when you epoxy over Madeira to prevent fisheyes? Or, is a strand of Madeira thread enough to eliminate fisheyes?
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Well thank you Herb. Spencer, thanks, I appreciate that information. And Tom, excellent information, makes perfect sense. Thank you!
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Herb, I don't take that as critical. See the first 35 years I had a different career. I sold my business and semi retired. I'm now 61 years old. Now, I'm trying to make a going concern of the hobby that I loved so much. That's what changed. It's one thing when you're making rods for friends and to sell when you're approached, it's quite another thing when you're trying to economize everything you
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Okay, thanks Billy, I'll just stick with Chromaseal. You just gave me a good piece of advice in making sure I don't use too much. How many coats do you put on Madeira thread? Two? (that's what I've been doing) You're right though, I'm overthinking it. I am going to try the Cason's on an ice rod I'm building and see how it does. Did you know (I'm sure you did) the silicone is even on their metalli
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As I said, I'm fairly new to Madeira thread. That's my biggest concern, not regular Nylon or Silk. You're right, I keep doing what I've done but, over 43 years everything has changed drastically. In fact, in the last 3 years I've changed how I do everything. From wrapping techniques (completely new thread carriage) to finish application. I learn a lot in searches on here from you guys. Also, a t
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Thanks Mike, I think you're right. It appears that adequate drying time is at the heart of CP failures. That would especially apply to Cason's given it uses a solvent carrier.
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I've never had a color preserver fail, nor have I had any kind of separation in 43 years of rod building. That's probably over 800 rods. As for users making errors, I'll do a search on that to see what those errors are. I guess I'm just concerned that, when I least expect it, I'll have a failure, that's all. If I know what not to do, then I protect my work from having to cut it off and doing it a
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Ben, I'm not trying to educate anyone. In fact, I'm trying to be educated. But, I'll say this, I do tons of other work (which I'm sure many of you do as well) from working with Marble and granite, to cement to stucco to wood finishes and I feel that solvent based products are more often quite superior to water based products. Water based products were not created on performance, they were a "
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Okay, to address some comments. First, thanks for your comments guys. Billy, if you do a search on Color Preservers you get a ton of unhappy users. Now, does that include water based CP, I don't recall. Especially with Madeira thread. I'm wondering weather the Al's Color Rite works on Nylon, anyone? As for what color preservers do, yes they soak into the thread but in order to create an effective
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Oops - can mistaken posts be deleted?
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