My long gone grandfather was like most of us...more hobbies than can be counted. Among his many crafts was leatherwork. He made very fine wallets with leather engravings of hunting dogs, pheasants, and trout. He gave them away as gifts, only to be repeatedly told to sell them at the general store in Hughesville PA. So...eventually he did. They sold fast and he’d end up with requests for more, so
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Update: Using TaskRabbit to get the blanks picked up and shipped. My guy is gonna pack them in 7.5 foot PVC with bubble wrap, and then take them to FedEx for shipping. Two of these Fenwick SP- 841’s for $150 is quite a steal. Solid advise from all of you! Thanks! BTW- TaskRabbit is a pretty cool app. Tuck that away for future knowledge...in case something similar should arise for any of you.
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I’m not mastered in any way, but I’ve used the foam arbors and Pro Paste. They worked well for me. Clearly masking tape works well...or nobody would recommend it. Sometimes the old ways are the best. However, I’d avoid any fast setting epoxy. You can get cheap epoxy with 20 minute working time from Harbor Freight. I use it all the time for butt caps, as well as having used it on the handle &
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It’s just two Fenwick SP-841’s. No guides or anything else. It’s gotta go from Staten Island to the SF Bay Area. Looks like I’m gonna use Task Rabbit to pick it up, pack it in PVC, and drop it off at FedEx. Phew!!! The PVC idea from both of you is a slam dunk. I’ll be making that happen. Thanks, -Raymond
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First off, I just want to say thank you to all of you on this forum who’ve helped me with my project to recreate my father’s rod. It means a lot to me! So...I’ve finally found what I think is the blank- Fenwick SP-841. Spin casting 84” one piece. I found a seller and an amazing price! Unfortunately, he doesn’t ship- pick up only. I’m considering all options and factors. The hardest factors are
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Hi Herb, I was able to remove the butt cap off my father’s rod and measure the butt of the blank. The butt diameter and tip size may assist CTS in selecting a mandrel, and therefore getting me closer to what I’m looking for. So long as the blank has a medium action, the wraps, ferrules, and finish...should slow the action down a bit. I’ve accepted that I most likely will never find that a one
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Alright... Buying all new. Going with ThreadMaster ChromaSeal CP. I like the idea of using my old finish for repairs that match. It won’t go into the garbage. I might even use it on my project to recreate my father’s Cabela’s/Fenwick kit rod. However, my father most likely used a varnish instead of an epoxy for his. The build on his finish is really light, as you can feel the wraps. I’d buy Bul
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Sage advise. I think I’ll order all of these products new and find a color preserver that doesn’t require me to jump in the DeLorean and gun it to 88. I’m always wondering about the old ways of doing things. For all I know...some 90 year old guy uses the inside of a banana peel to preserve his thread color, as evidenced by a fly tyer whom I once watched use a pencil eraser to strip a peacock hurl
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I had a similar problem, Tom. Except, mine was with using old Gudebrod thread sealer with Gudebrod blue and white tiger silk thread, and then Pro Kote finish. I have a new post on the board, but after reading your thread...I’m beginning to think it’s the freshness of the sealer and not enough coats. Check out my post as comments trickle in. Tight lines! -Raymond
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Hi builders! It’s been five years since the last time I finished a rod. In that time, my part B hardeners have yellowed. Is there any way to revive these? I have Pro Kote and some small bottles of Bullard Diamond II. I’ve heard of microwaving to decrystalize, but I’m not sure if that’ll do anything for the yellowing. With some red & white wraps, I’m concerned they’ll end up blood orange
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Herb... It means a lot to me that you’ve gone this far, looking into this. Regardless of the outcome, having been reassured that someone is willing to give it a go in laying up a blank for me...is awesome! I plan on recognizing everyone who’s assisted me with their experience, knowledge, and resources...once I’ve written about my journey. I’ll be in touch in the near future about this blank. I
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Thanks, Norm & David! I submitted an email to the expo for information, as well explaining my project and requesting any resources. Added: I plan on reaching out Cabela’s for more info on the the history of their kits. Hopefully...there’s someone in that company with some hidden knowledge on the reel seat. I’m thinking it was a Varmac knockoff...or OEM like the Fenwick blank, sold to Cabela’
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Agreed. I’m probably gonna have to find an operation like McFarland or James Green type guy...with the ability to lay up a blank like my father’s. I thought it might be difficult for CTS. It’s all good. Thanks for taking tthe time to entertain my quest. When, not if...it happens, I’ll be sure to post the completed rod for everyone to see.
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Uh oh, David... I’ve been scouring the internet for a way to contact James Green. I’m beginning to suspect that he may longer be making blanks...or may no longer be with us.
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I’m forced to agree with you, Spencer. This is an older application than current techniques. The two sets of Sizematic ferrules, as well as the four or five double footed wire casting guides...will slow the action. Starting with something so loosy-goosey would be a mistake. Thanks for reminding me of this. That might’ve been a 200+ dollar F-up!
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Thanks, David! That’s an excellent resource. I’ll definitely be looking James up!
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Added: In my Lamiglas post, I’ve been advised that a 3 or 4 weight might be too floppy. This makes me consider that the Sizematic ferrules would slow the action on something like a 6 weight blank.
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raymondfaus@gmail.com That’s an interesting question... I haven’t thought about it in that way. I’ve only considered that it’s a blank that’ll be for trout/panfish, it’s length, and action. I’m spitballing here...but I’m guessing that it would be a 3 weight fly rod blank, 7’, and not be super st
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When I say solid I mean non-translucent. Thanks Herb!
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Hi Herb, I’m interested... What I’m looking for may be a bit difficult. I’m looking for a 7’ or 7’,6” one piece fiberglass fly rod blank...or one piece fiberglass trout/panfish blank for ultralight trout fishing. I’m attempting to recreate my father’s Cabela kit rod from 1975. It being a one piece blank is critical to being able to cut it for featherlight Sizematic ferrules. Adding to the co
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Agreed. The 110, 110N, 220, and 220N’s were incredibly tough and mechanically simple with that worm drive. I own about twelve of them which get used exclusively for trout & bass. I’ve been obsessed with them since childhood. Sometimes the old ways of doing things are the best...or at least, my favorite.
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Pic sent, Dennis. Thanks!
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Thanks, Spencer. I’ll keep this in mind. Thanks for looking out for me!
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Oh my gosh! Thank you so much!!! How would we arrange that? Yes, they’re with the male end o-ring.
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Anyone know where I can find this Lamiglas one piece blank? Lamiglas no longer sells it.
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In 1975, the year I was born...my father built a 7’ Cabela’s honey colored spin casting trout rod. It came with a blank that he had to cut for Sizematic ferrules, three pieces. It had four or five wire casting guides, a dark brown tiger style thread, a green & gold Varmac style reel seat, and came with the cork grips. I used to covet that rod as a child! Especially with that Dam Quick 220 he
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I’ve had some success painting a couple of rods. I was trying to color match the honey colored rod my father built from a 1975 Cabela’s kit. I used 500 grit sandpaper to knock the sheen off my fiberglass blank, then tack clothed off all dust that couldn’t be blown off. From there I spray painted two coats of my base color from an Aaron Brothers art store. Dry, Wet sand, dry again, and then I used
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