I ended up cutting in the 2 edges with a fine flat file and then sanded down to the decals which were put directly on the blank. It came out pretty nice. I peeled off the decalsI then carefully sanded with 360g and wrapped the area with blue metallic thread. I put on the first coat of ls supreme with blue holo flakes.As always with the flakes it is a little bumpy. Today I will do a second thin
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Thanks, I have decided to sand it down with a sanding block. I will cut a 2.5" piece of wood and make a block to sand it down then do a couple layers to buil it back up then lastly do a final thin coat ove it all. Thanks again for the advice. Rick
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So after I get it cut away the new epoxy will blend in with the remaining epoxy and not show a seam?
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If I click on the link to the left It takes me right to it. I also sent them an email 20 mins ago with no warning or problem. If I try to log in I get the warning also.
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I just got a rod almost finished. It is a spinning rod and I put 2 decals on between thread wraps with trim. At first I was going to have one on top one on bottom. Then decided to have one on each side. Not paying attention when I moved the decals to the sides when holding rod with reel down the one decal is upside down. Hope this makes sense. Anyway my question is if I remove the epoxy betwe
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Was out for me too but now its working. And I always had trouble with the site loading slow slow slow and now it seems to zip right along. Maybe an upgrade was involved.
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You have all given some great ideas :). I have a couple 3/4"x 4' hardwood dowels and a couple of old broken rods to try. I ordered grit and I also have a roll of the 1/2" wide adhesive sandpaper to try. I ordered the cd from Rodmaker with how to make a reverse bit. I have an older spade bit I want to experiment with while I am awaiting the cd. I would assume I just cut a bevel on th
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I will taper the dowel on the lathe and attach an end for chucking. Good point on the grit. What about any ideas for using the pilot bit with a bit extender for drilling out the handle also?
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I have a few rolls of sanding tape so I will try it also. I think if you control the speed you should be able to control the heat. I was also thinking that spiral wrapped sanding tape can leave gaps where it would make it easier for the dust to be removed so I figured to try the grit with a spiral of epoxy. I have made a couple little reamers with broken rod pieces but the tend to break apart
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Awesome tips and advise. I ordered some grit to make some reamers out of hardwood dowels I have. I like the reverse bits for the grips and also the pilot bits for the seats. Why could you not just use a longer pilot bit to also drill out the grips? I have a couple drill bit extensions that could make the pilot bit go through the grip. Then I could use the pilot bit for both. And thanks for th
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I bought a couple of rod kits from Mudhole with pre-made cork handles. They have a 1/4" hole in the center. Any suggestions on how to ream or drill out the handles to fit the blank and keep it centered properly? Thanks Rick
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Here is a pic of this glass. It is a smaller glass so it fits the standard chuck with the jaws on the inside. The tailstock fits in the bottom nicely and I can use the foot control to turn for the wrap. I am making a holder for the bigger glasses that will fit in the chuck just as a rod does. When I get it done I will post a pic of it also. Rick
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I will post one this weekend.
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It is available now.
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I am planning on just a straight wrap with a trim ring. I thought of doing it from center out doing two wraps. I may try it and see how it looks with the tag ends underneath. I want to use nylon with no cp so it will be kind of see through. Another thing that is tricky is you can see through the glass stem so you see the back and front at the same time and it is confusing to look at. I was sit
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Thanks everyone. I ordered a 17mm skeleton seat and will give it a try. Rick
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I saw the wine glasses done on here on the photo section and want to make one to match a rod I am building for some one. I got the power wrapper tail stock and with the chuck and tail stock I have the glass held perfectly. I have tried a couple wraps with A thread with a metallic trim. The glass is so smooth and with the taper of the stem it is extremely difficult to go from large stem to sma
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Is this what I would use if I turned my own wooden reel seat? If not could someone point me to what to use? Thanks Rick
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I saw a recent post about thread art on different items and so as not to hi-jack the thread I am starting a new one. I love the wine glasses that were done in the Photo section and was wondering how I could chuck a glass to use to apply the epoxy finish. I have an 8' rod wrapper w/dryer. I was thinking a suction cup to suction to the base of the glass and then a rod of some kind to hold in th
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I posted a pic of the progress so far in pics under misc... I want to put the name above the pic which is on the right side of pic.
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Victor Heal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > He has 4 coats of LS Supreme on the area where the > decal will sit. Depending on the thickness of his > finish he should be able to sand a small flat area > no problem. I would probably add a couple more > coats to be safe if I was going to try it but > again he's not sanding on the blank. He's
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I am making a rod with a custom picture decal for the butt section. I did a couple LS layers with holo flakes, put a decal on, and then 2 more LS coats with smaller holo flakes to give a 3D look. So far it is awesome.I would like to put a name decal above the picture decal with the name going down the rod. For effect I would like the name to sit flat. If I filed, cut, or sanded a small length
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Thank you for all your info. I ended up just sanding the rod I was working on with 600 grit and then 1000grit. I am happy so far with how it came out. I am getting ready to add the final LS Supreme coat. I just registered in the picture forum and if it comes out ok I will post a pic over there. I take astro photos with my telescope and ccd camera and made a decal of 'Thors Helmet' I did a mo
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One last question. Is there a recommended grit to sand with? I think I am going to LS Supreme a broken piece and practice sanding to see if it is what I want. Thanks Rick
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Thank you. I finally got a nice coverage over the waterslide decal but the whole epoxy area is about 8-9" long and it has a couple small humps. Am I correct to sand it even and then a final coat? Or can I put a final coat on and make it even? Thanks again, Rick
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How long do you wait for LS Supreme to cure before it can be sanded?
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On the 4th attempt I finally got the decal coated. I did a very thin coat and it looked a little uneven over the decal. I added another thin coat and it was still a bit wavy but looked better. I then put on a thick coat and it stayed nice and smooth over the whole wrap and decal. At one point with the wavy layers I thought of trying to fine sand it smooth before doing the next layer. I was no
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I am using holograpic glitter in LS Supreme. I have .008 size and I bought a five size kit. It only takes a very small amount and it looks awesome.I have done 3 layer samples with each top layer a smaller sized glitter. Gives a great 3D look. Rick
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I use the Microscale microset but am out of microsol. I have the Microscale liquid decal film. It is made to put over decal after printing to protect the image from smudging while handling. It will also strengthen the film so it will not bunch up when applying it to your object. I did not use this last time so maybe I will try it on a sample instead of the Deft spray and see if it helps. Than
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I do apply the acrylic spray to the decals to stop the ink from running when setting in warm water. I will try the CP on top after I apply the decal to see if it helps. Is it possible to put the thinnest coat of LS supreme on the decal without turning with the dryer motor? And then when dry do a normal coat over the whole area? Thanks Rick
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