Mike What specifically is the problem? Epoxy lifted corners, fish eye, lumps / bumps / waves?
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Gary and Roger are correct - it can be done. But, just as Roger described it, you've got to be careful and in full control of the speed. The challenge for you and the decision only you can make is is the reward of making the correction worth the very significant downside risk. And you will need to tape off both sides of the grip to protect seat, blank, trim wrap, whatever.
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Maybe cool the components in ice water before measuring and mixing? Or store the components in the refrig then let them warm to 70 degrees or so before measuring and mixing?
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Color me confused on the alcohol thing. Here is what I think I know, but "alcohol" exists in so many types it is at best confusing. Isopropyl alcohol, AKA rubbing alcohol or wood alcohol, seems to do a good job cleaning up excess epoxy when mounting reel seats, grips, etc. Other than being flammable it has few downside risks to use (just don't drink it - very bad). Grain alcohol
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Take a look at the REC fighting butts. They used to be available with or without hardware.
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Last two heavier rod builds were both TFOs, a Pro Series !! and a TiCr X. The Pro II is OK. The TiCr X is a super rod to cast something big and ugly then bring something big to the boat.
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Take a look at the TFO TiCr X blanks in 7 or 8 weight.
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Glenn I have used CP, CP from multiple manufacturers, and 'lumpy bumpy' has never been a problem resulting from the use of CP. Epoxy is another matter, and yes I've done my share of lumpy and bumpy, which in all cases was my fault for applying excess epoxy. So, if you are experiencing lumpy bumpy before applying finish epoxy then the first suspects are excess CP or CP that is no longer suita
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I second Bryan's thoughts. Aesthetics are second to function and corrosion considerations for the salt.
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Yep, same as a conventional casting rod - spine and guides on top.
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Corky Dawn dish soap and soft tooth brush is what I use. Equally important, and more so if it is a cork grip on a fly rod, is to let the cork thoroughly air dry before returning the rod section to its bag and tube. Moisture in or on a rod stored in a dark place, such as a bar and tube, is an invitation for some very bad things to happen.
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Tom You wrote that the thread climbs nicely up the guide foot so I suspect you have ground the feet to about the correct angle. Try lessening the thread tension and packing only the portion of the wrap opposite the guide until the wrap is fully on top of the guide foot ramp. The "lag" is part geometry (the thread up the ramp does not advance towards the guide center as quickly as
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Tom Regardless of color, NCP vs. non-NCP, nylon vs. silk vs. poly, best practice is to make test wraps on the blank in the grip or reel seat area. NCP nylon is not supposed to color shift with finish application, but it does just a bit. Non-NCP nylon and silk can color shift a bunch depending in part on the color of the blank. What might work wonderfully on a white blank can be a disaster o
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That ought to work resulting in about 18 adhesive fillets. Do mix enough adhesive to slightly overfill the gaps, rotate the cork as you push it into place, and clean up any drips and excess adhesive with alcohol. Epoxy paste adhesive will tend to stay put and be easier to work with over the 18" while sliding the grip into place.
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Gav Nothing wrong with using masking tape or fiberglass tape. The tape bushings serve two purposes, the first of which is to center the grip or seat on the blank, Additionally the tape bushings are the structures around which the adhesive forms fillets from the blank to the grip or seat. The woven fiberglass tape is arguably the better choice as it permits adhesive to both form fillets and
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Have added lead to the butt to achieve the desired balance point. Felt as if I needed a shower afterwards.
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If your question is how does 100 wt silk compare to nylon sizes A through D in terms of diameter, 100 wt silk is thinner / finer than size A nylon.
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Yes, but . . . Best to store the rods in bags and hang the bags on the cup hooks. Hanging a rod on metal cup hooks where the tip top or other guide is slipped over the hook is maybe not a good idea long term. There is the potential for a dissimilar metals thing to rear its head. And as Tom advised, the rods ought to hang freely with nothing pressing against them.
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Tom Yes, you certainly can use round or rat tail files to ream a cork grip. It's not as easy or quick as a reamer, but it can be done. Put the turned grip on the bench, insert the file, then made 3 or 4 passes through the grip, all at the same place. Then roll the grip just a bit and repeat. By filing & rolling, filing & rolling you can ream the grip ti fit without being off cent
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Go to the link below and download the instructions for constructing reamers. Then go to the link below and note that the abrasive is wrapped in a spiral such that the space between each turn of abrasive is equal to the width of the abrasive tape. Go slow with the reaming - lower RPM for the drill and not so much pressure forcing the grip up the reamer. There is a lot of heat being gen
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Were you turning the cork on the blank or on a mandrel, is this for a fly, spin or bait caster, and if for a spin or conventional bait caster do I assume correctly it is the main rear grip? If the grip was turned on a mandrel was the off center before the grip was reamed to fit or after reaming to fit?
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Just Google furled leader. Here is a link
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Adam A couple on point links follow: ww.fieldandstream.com/blogs/fishing/2009/08/merwin-spinning-reels-fly-rods With regard to your question as to whether a 3 weight fly rod will snap if if you hit a 5 pound smallie, the answer is no provided you know what you are doing. The more important follow on question is whether or not it is truly sporting to target a 5 pound anything with su
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Norm is correct. I have referred to light wire snake guides for a 4 weight rod.
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Link above is a general discussion on fly rod guide sizing. Link above contains a link to a great pdf of guide sizes. Yeah, a 3/0 snake would be small - I've not seen one. I rarely use 2/0s - eyes too old to see them well, hands shake too much to handle them, and the smallest Universal snake size offered by Snake Brand is 1/0.
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Robert If you've shot American trap doubles you know there is a never ending debate for the best combination of choke and shot size for the first target, and truth is there are multiple correct combinations. So the debate goes on and on. A similar debate rages on for fly rod guide sizes. Nonetheless, assuming the #5 guides were #5 double foot snake guides, then the guides are way too larg
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Some will advise against the use of alcohol. I use it, sparingly, with a clean gun patch (no nasty silicone) before sanding. Then sand. Blow the sanding dust away. Some advocate the use of painter's tape to remove the dust. Do work slowly and carefully with the sanding. If you sand into the decal or the blank you create a bigger problem. A quick wipe down of a new blank ought to be a
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Matt Your description is sort of consistent with "fish eye" where the epoxy pulls away from a contamination such as silicone. The epoxy then cures leaving holes or gaps. It's a bad thing. I'm guessing the wrap finish looks OK as the wraps helped contain the worst of the contamination. Random thoughts for you: Use 90%+ rubbing alcohol to clean a blank, not de-natured alcohol
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Never used a drill press to turn a grip, but it could work I suppose. It's sort of a lathe just on another axis. Instead of a drill bit, think about a length of threaded rod, which could be used with fender washers and nuts to press the rings together during the TiteBond cure. Rub paraffin on the threaded rod as the release agent. Using anything with silicone in any rod building process sor
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It is not the epoxy brand - high viscosity (high build) epoxy tends to release bubbles less easily, has a shorter open time, and cures more quickly. On the plus side, the high viscosity finishes can frequently cover in a single application. The medium viscosity and lite flavors of epoxy finishes tend to more easily and quickly release bubbles, have longer open times, and cure more slowly. So
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