Big Surf Rod perhaps? I would not build one at 6 inch spacing. Here is a big spinning rod, Alvey to be specific. Count the guides. 14 feet long. Conventional, a few more, but nothing like 6 inch spacing. I have some 13 -1/2 foot Hatteras Heaver blanks by RainShadow, I will look up the recommended guide spacing. RainShadow has guide spacing drawings for some 500 blanks in
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Michael Friddle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I used size D thread today instead of the floss > and IT WORKED! Yep. Go back to the basics (In this case Clemens Books) and it works. Try floss, it marks easy and is easy to pull out once the wraps are complete.
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Michael Friddle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I used size D thread today instead of the floss > and IT WORKED! Yep. Go back to the basics (In this case Clemens Books) and it works. Try floss, it marks easy and is easy to pull out once the wraps are complete.
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Michael Friddle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I used size D thread today instead of the floss > and IT WORKED! Yep. Go back to the basics (In this case Clemens Books) and it works. Try floss, it marks easy and is easy to pull out once the wraps are complete.
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Joseph Willsen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My wraps tend to run off a bit due to me being > right handed....I tend to push them a bit to the > left of center while packing. That is just me > though. The 4 lengths of dental floss really help. Just get them straight on the under wrap!
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Its all about layout. Read Clemens' books. Pics from about 1978 when I was using a home built rod lathe. I am sure there is a good article or two here on the site, do some searching. The dental floss taped on the hand rest is marked with the spacing, then 4 equally marked are each taped at 90 degree intervals on the rod. After all the wraps are complete, the dental floss is pulled out.
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Ordered these to fit all the way down the blank. Then built up the tip with1/8" wide masking tape about 1/8" inch back from the tip end so as to center the roller guide on the blank. Otherwise the roller tip will cant and look awful when viewed from the side of the rod. Attach with a generous layer of your favorite epoxy. The blue tape is to keep epoxy off of the blank when it sq
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > Roller tip guides are used on heavy class blue > water rods. They stand up a lot father from the > blank and can see considerable twisting forces do > to longer lever arm. There is an answer. Building two deep drop rods for halibut.
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That is a 1/2" drill motor with the handles removed. I have larger reamers. Super fast.
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Each rod stand (there are 5 on my lathe) has a bent wire hook for hanging the loops. And when I tie a loop I put a small piece of masking tape on the tied end. So there is always a loop handy and a nearby place to hang the loop after pulling the thread under the wrap. I make 10 or so loops at a time, still sometimes misplace one: Lay it on the bench or the lathe bed and it is gone foreve
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Buy two then you will have a spare. A lesson learned in my machine shop. Spare belts for each piece of machinery. And write the belt number on the machine somewhere!!!! I put the belt numbers inside the belt cover.
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Yep, salt water. Maybe 20 more rods/reels in another rack. The most used rods have Fuji seats. And I wash each rod & reel combo in hot soapy water after each trip. No corrosion anywhere. Reels come off every three or four months for service. The old metal seat rods are collectors, I do not use them. I have Penn reels over 40 years old, just take care of them and they wil
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Yea I have had my share of misplaced packages. One wound up in New Jersey (I live near Seattle). But, with rod building, I keep a good stock of blanks, thread and supplies so I basically do not have to order anything to build a rod. I buy well in advance of rod building time.
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Batson is the importer, call them. And ask for both the Batson/Rainshadow catalog and the Alps catalog, they will mail both to you. You need them! I am spoiled, Batson, Pac Bay and Utmost are only 10 miles from me.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi John..i did not know that fuji used polyester > for their thread..it would be better for butt > wraps than nylon thread if you use cp because > polyester does not absorb water and relax near as > much as nylon..thanks.. Good Point. One of the many little mysteries of rod building!
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I have tons of serger thread from cleaning out a relative's house back when we had to move her into a care facility. She was a quilter and had more fabric and thread than the average fabric shop! It is high strength polyester without all the fancy coatings. Salty Dog on another forum (most of you know who he is) says it works just fine. I will likely use it on butt wraps. Fuji wrappin
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Open up the motor. Check brushes. Sand the dark stuff off the commutator. If it is the typical sewing machine type motor, your sewing machine repair shop will have new brushes if needed. I spent many an hour in my dad's truck repair shop repairing starters and generators (remember them??). Putting the armature in the Little South Bend lathe and turning the commutator to round it up an
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I was at Utmost Enterprises Thursday to pick up some blanks and noticed a lot of fly rod grips and real seats on the tables. Give them a call and ask, maybe they have what you want. Link in the column on the left. And Batson has tons of stuff. You might give their new catalog a look.
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