I have no idea where to get "pit paste" in the seatte area. Pit paste kinda sounds like a Nascar pit crew slang fort wheel brearing grease..........Ha! "Minwax" is sometning I think a guy could find at a home improvement or corner hardware store? The particular cork grip I am filling is rough! The cork is intact, but is of poor quality. Be\cause ot that, I rubbed some oak
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One the handle is shaped. What is used as a cork filler? Does the filler have to be sanded, or can it be removed with a damp sponge? Or is the cork sanded, then damp sponge wiped? I thought I read where a Elmers product was used. But a search for that post was not found. Thanks.
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I am running a new computer with windows 8. Real freakin learning curve with W8. Also using Firefox, I have no spell checker. cann spel al days loong withut ane idicatun of a mispelede word!
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While contemplating whether to remove and replace the damaged cork rings or replace the forgrip, reel seat, and rear handle. I decided to see how cleanly I could remove the damaged area. If that did not fair so well. I could go on to plan B. As it turned out. With no special tools at my disposal. I decided to use a exacto knife. Probably not really an "exacto". But a knife with the
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If I repair the cork damage. Is there a skin option ot some kind? To cover up the ugly step child of a cork handle and foregrip?
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Rolger, I should have thanked you for your respons. Please respond to my new findings that were posted as a new topic. Instead of a reply to this thred. Appoligies, my mistake. Operator error.
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I pick up this rod from a friend. Damage to the cork handle is from the very butt end, up 1 1/2". Apperently it was smashed in the trunk lid of his car. My thoughts before seeing the rod, but talking to him about it on the phone, was to repair the cork rings. Now that I have the rod physically in my hands. First thing I notice, is the cork handle and foregrip are the ugliest cork handles, co
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Does anyone have any experience wiith this make and model of rod? (Lami Competition CC 705). Or could shed some light on it's two piece construtcion? Seam being hidden 6 inches up from the butt end, and under the cork handle?
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So, a friend smashed the very butt end of trhe cork handle of his rod. In the rear hatch of his Subie. The rod is a Lami Competitor 5 power CC 705. Itr has the trigger type reel seat. Which, I think comes with the longer of the two optional handle configurations. First off, would you pay 25.00 fotr the damaged rod, and fix it yourself? Secondly, how would you fix it? Cut off the damage, incl
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I am thinking of using a hair dryer. Have not gotten around to giving it a go.
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Chris, my email address is now accessable.. Still stimped, as to how to dry the inside of the broken rod tip. It has been sitting next to the Natural Gas Heater. For several days, and the moisture does not dissapate! It is consistantly 70-80 degrees in that enclosed, closet size space.
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Washatonian, guilty as charged! You as well? If I discover we are neighbors. I would take full advantage and have this rod in your hands, pronto!........LOL! As I debate the plug vs rod glue, in the broken male end. Using either 5 min epoxy or rod glue. Would require the inside of the rod, at the male end, be dry? I have successfully completed a plug repair, at a break, on 3 or 4 rods. With
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Chris Herrera, thanks so much for the guidance. I was going ahead with the project, minus any helpfull suggestions. That was before you sir, entered into the equation. Thank you for the support. Roger sir, I totally get what your saying as far as the fiberglass plug. As it just happens, I had cut a tip section form a fiberglass rod. To use as the center portion of a two piece rod repair. In
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Chris, maybe back track just a little. What is the reason for plugging the male end? I thought it was for support or strength, since the broken tip was not originally a male ferrel end. When wiggling the rod. The clicking, at the 'new ferrel end was intermittent. I placed all three pieces together. placed eylets on the rod. :Placed a reel, and fed line through the eyelets to load the rod, and
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You sound like you are putting too much work into > that rod And like said take off what you can use > from it and just get another blank > keep the sections around and maybe later you can > use for some thing else Yes, your probably wright. But this is a project, something to test my abilit
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Maybe just go to WalMart and pull a rod off the > shelf > Or > Like said build another that one is Toast Bill, are saying Wallmart is a good place to find a suitable tip section for my project ? Because, I am pretty certain just pulling "any" rod off the shelf. Is not going fit my bu
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Roger, thank you for the reply,. Your thoughts are well received. After searching for a total replacement tip section. I do not have a tip section to replace existing length, action, or length. I am left with a suitable replacement tip section, added to the broken tip section. Realizing this is a waste of time to most. What is the minimum, and maximum overlap of the new tip section to the
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I have a 8' 6" Lamaglass G1000 Graphite fly rod. It has 3" borken from the tip section. Tip top removed, and placed on the tip of the borken section. Rod in retirement for too many years. For a project, decided to convert to a spinning/casting rod. First, cut hard rubber butt plate from end of butt. Next, fit donor rod blank up inside butt section, and left enough donor rod to atta
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