Another reamer idea: I spiralled 1/4" masking tape, leaving a 1/2" gap between spiralls, along the length of a piece of old rod blank. (actually, a set of different sizes) I coated it all with epoxy, rolled it in silicon carbide grit, then immediately peeled the tape off and allowed the glue to dry. This gave me a 1/2" grit strip plus a 1/4" clearing channel. I didn't have
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I'll try moving the winding check, or drilling through to open an avenue for the epoxy. I looked up "Devcon Liquid Epoxy" and was surprised to read it is "not exportable from the USA" (???) I'm in Canada. Any suggestions for another type?
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Some excellent suggestions! Seems simplest to try to inject liquid epoxy in, possibly having to drill/enlarge the hole if needed. I'll give that a try. Failing that, I may have to try replacing rings, etc. I now have a plan....Thanks for your help !!
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I built a switch rod grip on the blank, but discovered the uppermost 3 " has a small amount of movement when I put a little side torque on it. I gather I somehow must not have gotten enough epoxy onto the blank at that section. I don't want it to get worse, and I don't want to strip everything off and re-do it. I wondering if I can poke a syringe down through the winding check and squirt som
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Will give it a try...Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for your replies. I'm a little nervous about damaging the blank while boiling the seat. The lower 6" of the blank would be in the water as well. Should I be worried?
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I would like to remove a reel seat from a spey rod and reinstall it as a downlocking seat to improve the rod/reel balance. The rod is a Meiser, that I built as a kit, without realizing the seat should be downlocking. I'm assuming I'll have to sacrifice the lower grip, but would like to save the seat without damaging the blank. I've read a few suggestion for doing this, but thought I'd look for t
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Thanks for the responses. It appears, Dick, that the 11' 5/6 wt rating IS actually based on a single hand rating. In any event, I'll put it to good use as a trout switch rod. BTW: the 11' 6/7 wt I built actually tests out as a 7.8 on the spey scale. I discussed my CCS results with SG and it rocks with the 540 skagit switch and 510 Rage he recommended. It appears The A.R.E. ratings are somewhat al
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I've just finished building an A.R.E. 11' 5/6wt switch rod and have calculated the CCS numbers for the rod. I'm having difficulty transposing the ratings to an appropriate scandi/skagit line grain weight for the rod, so thought I'd look to this forum for some help. My measurements/calculations are as follows: ERN: 5.35 (43 cents), AA: 75 deg, DBI: 5.3/75 and CCF: 1200/17= 70.59. Any help and
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Gene, Thank you for working this out for me. Looking forward to putting it together. Rick
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Much appreciated Dave and Gene. Dave, I had not heard of that method before, but am hearing more and more about finding a straight axis rather than locating the spine. Thanks for your explanation....I will give it a try on this build. Gene, My o/all grip length will be 17 1/2", with the top of the reel seat at 125" from the tip. The end of the 1st ferrule is at 100" from the
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I'm about to build an Anglers Roost 11' 5/6 wt switch rod. It's a medium action, 4-pce blank. I've looked at several options for guide spacing, some which include a stripping guide on the bottom section, others placing the bottom guide on the 2nd section. Really looking for a starting point, to get me to the point of doing a static test to dial them in. Just wondering if anyone here has built on
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Just a late-breaking update to my original post: I've been using my A.R.E. 11' 6/7 wt for a year and 1/2 now. It actually tested out as a 7.8 on the spey scale, and finally dialed in to a 540 gr skagit switch and a 510 Airflo Rage. With these lines, I can pound out 80'+ casts all day. I use it rivers for summer and winter steelhead, landing several up to 16 lbs. I also use it on the beach for c
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Just brainstorming here...With the increasing use of UV cured coatings for flies, etc, I'm wondering if there are any UV cured coatings for thread wraps or rod finishes on the horizon. I'm thinking we can't be far away from development of a durable and flexible coating, that may only require a short duration of turning to level it out before zapping with a UV light. Any thoughts or info on thi
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Just a heads up. I have some reel seats I don't need. Please check out my buy and sell posting.
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Thanks for your help, Brook. I have pics, but not sure how to post them here. If any interest, I can email pics with list of what I have.
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I have acquired an assortment of rod guides, some in sets and some in bulk, many in unopened packages. They seem to closely resemble, and may be, Fuji LVSG and NSG silicon carbide guides. They are in a range of sizes, mostly in a gunsmoke finish, with some in bright chrome/stainless. Marking labels show ie: NSG guide bulk SZ10, BNLG10, BNL12,etc. Can anyone verify what they might be? I am only
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Back from the test-flight of my 11' 6/7wt A.R.E. switch build. Started with a 410 skagit switch, with 12' 3.9 ips spey polyleader. Felt pretty good, and I thought that might be it. Then put on a 440, 470, then 510. The 440 and 470 definitely felt "in the sweet spot", the 510 started to bog down. Also tried 10' T-11, and the 440 and 470 both turned it over well. I felt the 440 was a
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Thanks Geoff, Good info. I will see what info I can find. Rick
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Hi Rick, Definitely not a medium action blank. My finished rod does seem to have some backbone to it, but definitely flexes in the top 1/3rd. Comes with a butt extension and reel seat, which I didn't think was good quality, so didn't use, and, for what I feel is a pretty decent and nicely-finished blank, not necessary to include anyway. My impression is that the blank is better than the price
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It's an Anglers Roost 11' 6/7 switch blank. I seem to remember the butt dia to be .490 ", but would have to check with A.R.E. to be exact. (it's built over now) I,ve seen very good reviews on the A.R.E. spey blanks, so thought I'd give this one a try, even though not much info is available on this one. I did a static test for guide placement, and found it best with 12 guides. I can provide
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I have just built an 11' switch rod, listed as a 6,7 wt. I tested it with the common cents system, and determined the following values: ERN: 10.24 AA: 75 deg CCF: 66.6 I'm having trouble interpreting these results. Can someone give me an idea of rod weight, and possibly, what weight skagit or scandi line I might try with it? thanks, Rick
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Not at all, Eugene. Just turned the cork on the blank ( a big leap of faith for me) Actually, found it easier than doing it on a metal rod, then reaming the whole thing, especially since I wanted it fairly thin. Looking forward to doing the guides now. Rick
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Got'er ! thanks, Rick
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Just checking: I began marking off guide locations on my blank. Having the bottom stripping guide at 83.4" from the tip leaves me with 48.6" from butt end up to the first guide. Seems like a lot. Can this be right?
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Great info! I think I'll go with 11 guides, tape them on, then do the static test to dial them in. Thanks again for your help, Rick
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Thanks very much for your help. I will use this as a starting point. One question: Would you explain what is meant by conservative/ agressive build? thanks again
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Hi Eugene, The total grip is 17.5" long, so top of grip to tip is 114.5" I've read number of guides should be rod length plus 1, so, I'm thinking 12 guides. (I'm open to advice on this number, as well) Rick
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Thanks Phil, I'm looking for a starting point to tape the guides on, then will do a static test to dial it in. Failing specific info, I can take general info from one of the online guide calculators, then do the static test. Just thought I might luck out here. Rick
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I'm building an Angler's Roost 11' 6/7wt switch rod (completely on the blank; no butt extension) and have been unable to find any info on guide spacing. Does anyone have any experience with this blank ?
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