Thanks to all for the advice. A couple answers to your questions: I don't believe I got the blank up to 200 degrees. I used the low setting and was as brief as possible. I didn't see smoke but there was a slight odor which I would compare to melting plastic. I assumed the odor was from the finish epoxy getting warm and soft: was I right or could that have been the blank burning? I have cle
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Thanks guys. I suspected the usual wrap might be as good as two. I used a heat gun on low, and tried to keep it to a minimum. I had a bad experience once with an old rod and heat, but it was using an alcohol burner, before I got the heat gun; which was one of my best additions to my rod building hobby.
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I'm repairing an old graphite 9' 9wt. two piece fly rod for a friend. He has used the rod surf fishing for many, many years. The salt finally damaged the second stripping guide so much---about a size 16 I think--it simply fell apart. But in removing existing epoxy, thread and guide feet, I had to use quite a bit of heat. So I'm concerned about having weakened the rod, although it appears
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A graphite fly rod I wrapped for a friend has nickel silver hardware on the reel seat. Recently I had a chance to see the rod, and my friend has badly neglected he nickel silver; evidently he didn't know that NS needs regular care. What is the best treatment to use to get recover the NS at least close to its original beauty? Thanks, jack
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Thanks everyone. Your responses have been enlightening and educational. Some of the answers inspired me to do a bit of research online (I know, not the best source), but I've learned that the only alcohol to use for my purposes is 90% isopropyl with 10% water only. If I use it sparingly and let it totally dry, I probably can't harm the wraps, or the blank. I will continue to use DNA for clean
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Donald: Thanks for the quick response. I understand the difference in the the various alcohols. I use ethanol because I believe it's the purest; and if I really get frustrated while wrapping, I can drink it. I do use DNA for it's appropriate use, cleaning mixed finish epoxy from my tools, and general clean up during and after finishing, but in general I keep it away from the rod blanks. I al
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For years I've kept a bottle of 70% ethyl alcohol at my work table. I use it to keep the blank clean of fingerprints and other stuff as I wrapped. I also use it to clean my tools before I start wrapping and start applying epoxy. And most importantly, I also use it to clean the wraps before applying the finish epoxy. I wait until they appear dry, usually 10+minutes. I've used all the finish p
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Thanks, gentlemen. I'll give one of their glass blanks a try. JD
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O.K. I get it!
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Anybody on the Board used Olde Fly Shop glass blanks? And pros and cons? Thanks, Jack
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Robert: Donald is right, if you're getting the look you want, stop at a single coat. But unless Threadmaster has recently changed its Lite formula, it's difficult to imagine one coat doing a complete job. I'm wondering if you are over "warming" the epoxy prior to applying. Adding heat will thin the epoxy for a short time, but certainly Threadmaster lite doesn't need much thinning, a
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Thanks Guys. I will contact Kerry. I should have thought of that myself.
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Russ Peak was of course famous for his fiberglass fly rods, which he rolled himself. When graphite became popular he also crafted a few graphites. Does anyone know who rolled the rod blanks for him? And about when they came on the market? I've found an 8' 3/4/5 wt. labeled "Cairnton Chalk Stream " and I'd like to learn more about it. Thanks
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Does anyone have experience with this finish, claimed to be State of the Art?
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Which is easier to work with ProKote high build, or regular? drying time? bubble retention? one coat? leveling (forgiveness)? consistent success? I've used both and I find good and bad in both and having difficulty deciding, wondering if there's a consensus. jack
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I'm thinking of wrapping a 9' 6 wt. four piece, and I'm wondering if any the group have fished this rod, and can give me a review. Thanks, Jack
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