I like croix model number system, prolly my favorite of all. 5S68MXF, SC5-spinning-6'8"-medium power- xtra fast action.. 4C76MHMF, SC4- casting-7'6"-medium heavy power- moderate fast action.
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Im pretty sure Fuji makes 5 and 5.5 double foots. Call lance at swampland.
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I haven't noticed a change in the tint of metallics after finishing until it starts to yellow.
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If you think the storm cloud looks a little light, you may be in luck, a lot of the time when I put the finish on NCP thread it darkens up a bit, especially if its on a darker blank. Like has been said before, its best to try test wraps with finish before committing to any colors. Good luck!
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Dave O'Brien Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Craig, > > Not sure about most people here but i call any > work i do ( including building rods) for family > and good friends Love Job's which mean they only > pay for the parts/materials. That's totally how I feel.. I often wonder how upset Uncle Sam can really be if I'm not paying taxes o
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Check with swampland, they may still have some of the 30/8 and 7 ring microwave sets left. Good shipping prices too.
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Does anyone have feelings on whether the spindle should be all the way in or out of its extension? I usually measure with mine in the middle of its range, but often wonder how others do it myself.
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Thanks for the help, I'm going to try that out when I get home Monday, I'm currently en route to a wedding in Massachusetts.
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My spool is 2" o.d so 54" from the face of the reel is the choke. I placed the rod atop a straight edge to plot a line from the center of the spool to the top of the choke, then placed the guide frames so they were just touching the line. Im going to move the choke up towards the reel a couple inches and plot the reduction guides again to see if that helps the static test. There is the
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Tom, how much do you think I would be able to move the choke towards the reel without any major negative affect? I have read that when using light line it won't hurt too bad. I'm using 8 lb fluorocarbon, not sure if that's light enough, but it seems light to me. Bill, the first butt guide is 22" from the face of the reel, next reduction guide is 12" from that, next is 10.5" and
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I'm just starting my first spinning rod build and I am having a time with the spacing. The ngc guide system puts my choke about 13" from the tip, and with only three reduction guides between the reel and the choke, there is a significant amount of space between all of them. They all line up like a bulls eye great when sighting down the rod, so I feel confident they are spaced correctly. M
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Thanks for the input, I think im gonna give the 6 wt a try,. The main reason I was gonna try it is I found some great deals on fly blanks, but would have more use for a steelhead spinning rod than a fly rod and had heard many stories of fly blanks making excellent spinning rods. I guess the only way to find out is to get the blank and if I don't like it for steelheading, just make a fly rod out o
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Thanks for the help all, I guess ill just have to wait.
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Does anyone know when they will be available? I would like to use them in my next build, but if their release is too long off I'll just go with the regular frames.
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Anyone know where or when I might be able to find some of those high frame Fuji k guides?,thanks.
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Thanks for the input gentlemen, keep it coming. Starting to sound like I'm gonna have to choose a heavier class blank now though, I was thinking 7 or 8 tops, but 10 plus, wow. I don't know much about fly blanks, I don't fly fish, but I have heard they make decent steelhead rods, and the blank I found was way cheaper than any steelhead blank I've found so I thought it might be worth a try. Bill,
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Hello, I was about to put an order in for a 2 piece fly blank for a buddy of mine, but was also thinking of getting another for myself to use as a steelhead float drifting rod, would a 6 wt be close to an ml/ m action spinning blank, or should I use something else, also is there a huge difference in having a 2 piece and a 3 pc as far as feel?,. The blank in question is an RX-7. Thanks for any sug
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Thanks for all of the insight gentlemen, I think I have a good enough grasp on the methods now, and I'm ready to get to turning my own cork grips and get a little hands on expierience. That should help make me feel like a real custom rod builder.
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Bill, thanks for the suggestions. I was wondering about the method of gluing the rings to the threaded rod that Scott mentioned as well, should I just be careful when gluing them together as to not stick them to the threaded rod, or what's the plan, how should I affix the cork to the scrap blank for turning, or would I be able to just turn it on the threaded rod and ream to fit my build after it
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I have a drill press, just not a very big one, so I'm not sure if the kit you speak of would fit it or not. If so, that would be great. Thank you for the offer regardless. I will have to take some measurements tomorrow when I can get to it.
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Do you gentlemen affix the grip to a mandrel/lathe first or just put it right on the blank and turn it? Is there an inexpensive way to do this? I've got one more to do, then its on to spinning for a few builds so I don't want to buy an expensive lathe for one build, let's just say that is not in the budget right now. At that point I would also consider just using a different reel seat that f
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Thanks a lot Tom, I needed to hear that. By the way, your book was also a huge stepping stone for me. - J
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Who here is expierienced with the mud hole rear split grip cork( you know, the one with the tenon that is designed to fit Fuji casting seats and such..), combined with a Fuji ACS seat? I found that the ridge behind the trigger protrudes above the diameter of the cork, just on the bottom though. I remedied this on my first build with aid of a dremel, and an hour or so of sanding the actual seat,
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Hello rod builders, I am Just about to start wrapping the guides on my first build. The blank is a St. Croix 3C70MF, split grip with the screw end of the ACS seat apx. 14 inches from the butt, using an old ardent xs casting reel with 15lb fluoro. Gonna be for small plastics and soft swimbaits 3/16-3/8 oz (I did all my test casts with a 3/16 oz weight). I should also mention that I am doing a spir
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