I don't know the origins or the coating process but I know they exist. I was sent a sample of several TiCr blanks and the Pro fly blanks to test using CCS and post into the database (9' 4pc. models from 4-10 wt.). I have built several of the rods and I regard them as very good blanks, especially for those who like to have lots of power in their blanks. I don't know if they make them or have t
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I remember a couple years ago reading about the issue with U-40 Ferrule Lube on the SCV finish - might well have been your post. That's what made me assume the finish was delicate and I think a lot of builders have that impression of the SCV. I've built a few SCVs but always used epoxy finish on them not wanting to take a chance with the PG. But it's interesting to know that you did NOT have a
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Bill, it was Matt Davis from this board that put me onto the Rapidograph a couple years ago. I'd had one from school that I used for labeling my bug specimens in an aquatic entomology course. The black ink doesn't run even when it gets submerged in a vial filled with 90% ethanol. It turned out that my old rapidograph was dried up and clogged and I had to buy a new one. I hope you have better
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He may be just saying that, as you know, to get you to negotiate. You've already established that he's difficult to deal with. So, ask yourself if you really want him buying lots of rods from you and driving you up the wall all the time. If you are a full time builder, you might have to deal with him but I wouldn't lower your price as an enticement. If you are a parttime builder, I definitely
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Marty, like I said I was surprised that I didn't have problems but felt like throwing caution to the wind so to speak. Yes, I wrote the inscription with the rapidograph and brilliant white ink. I bought my rapidograph a couple years ago at Michael's craft store. I let the ink dry for 24 hours before hitting it with the PG.
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I did a search but can't find that post where someone was asking about this a few weeks ago. The person wanted to know if Permagloss would remove or damage the SCV finish. I just finished building the SCV 5F866.4. I used Permagloss on the thread wraps and on the inscription area. I had no smearing or removal of the SCV finish. I did not use the St. Croix label but made the inscription instea
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I'm sure you're right Mike. The show put on in Baltimore for the International Brotherhood of Burglars and Thieves had a tremendous shoplifting problem. Seriously, that stinks. The proverbial turd in the bunch bowl. Tom, the same loser who stole the Wonder Weaver probably showed up to your reception and drank your free beer. Think about that in case you weren't angry enough before...
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In that case, I would overwrap the entire length of the damaged area with A thread and coat that with 2 coats of Permagloss. If there is damage under there that will eventually cause a break, this won't keep that from happening. But, it will protect the area from further damage. If it eventually breaks, look in the libarary for Ralph O'Quinn's article on rod repair. Great techniques that real
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According to H&H, it is the PacBay Rainforest ll blank so hopefully that will help you get more responses. You should check the CCS database for H&H and Rainforest ll blanks to see if it's in there.
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Take a road trip, listen to some good music, visit an old friend. For me a road trip listening to Little Feat's Waiting for Columbus will always help me hit the reset button and get me out of a funk.
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To elaborate on what Tom says, the ERN/power of a rod you choose is based on not just the amount of casting weight but how much power you want to fight fish with. Consider the surf fisherman, one using a spinning rod and one using a fly rod but both targeting 15 lb. striped bass. The spin fisherman will probably be casting between 2 and 6 ounces of bait and lead, whereas the fly fisherman will
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Sure, a pint of beer (16 oz. or 1 lb.) could be the weight you hang on the rod. In Dave's example a 2-1/2 pint rod is what he was describing. How about rating the angler by how many ales it takes to do something clumsy and break the rod.
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Dave, I think I prefer the way the British rate their beers: ordinary bitter, bitter, special bitter, extra special bitter. Marty, I think you are right in that the Brit system seems to measure power as does the ERN in the CCS system. I gotta admit that until today, I never knew there was another system for rating rods other than line class, lure wt. range, or CCS. Cool, I learned something
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Check the St. Croix website. Last year I build a fly rod for a friend/steelheader on the St. Croix noodle blank model 2S106ULS2. The whole design was his idea which he borrowed from famous Great Lakes steelheader John Nagy. He loves the rod and says it's the best steelhead rod he's ever used on the Ohio Lake Erie tribs he fishes. He mostly drifts nymphs on a 6wt. fly line. I don't know if St
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I agree with Stan. Too many anglers and builders use the term action when they are really trying to describe power. Not all powerful rods have fast action and plenty of light power rods have fast actions. For example, a light power blank with a fast action will still bend way down into it's butt section if you put a large load on it and I think that confuses a lot of people. Some people just
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I'll vote for St. Croix factory Legend Ultra fly rods, especially since they are about half price of some other fly rods that I don't think are as good. For my money, if I were buying a factory rod, I'd choose the lighter aluminum reel seat St. Croix uses over a heavy nickle silver one. That's the decision I usually make on my personal customs. Plus, St. Croix uses nice, slick TiCh coated sing
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Hmm....if only there was a publication that targeted rodbuilders : ) I like 2A because it is attractive and positive, without taking digs at anybody or anything. As much as I love smart-ass ads (actually, all things smart-ass), I think they are probably better at selling beer than custom fishing rods.
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I think I would also like the piece of mind of knowing that if one of my guides loosens during the day, I will at least be able to keep fishing if I have a traditional wrap, especially if I used a Forhan locking wrap on it. At least the guide won't fall into the stream. I'm not saying it's not a very cool idea and I also plan to try it on at least one rod just for the experience but, like Tom s
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What, shuttle wheels out of balance and mediocre hot dogs! Boy am I glad I didn't have to suffer through that, LOL. I hope the ICRBE continues to be such a great event and that I can find a way to make it down some year soon.
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Keep in mind, Jim, that Hanneman's primary interest when he developed the system was to help fly fishermen match up rods and lines with casting distances and preferences for power and action. And, the most powerful flyrod on the planet has about the same power as a Loomis 0 or 1 power Mag Bass taper. Fly rods are just not very powerful rods compared to spinning and casting rods. ERN is measu
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If you can find a syringe that won't be eaten up by Permagloss, and one with an outflow "needle" that won't clog up with cured Permagloss, I bet a syringe would be ideal for storing and dispensing. I wonder if any of the stainless metal medical syringes would work and how much they cost.
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It's a very helpful system. Read all about it and how to take the measurements at the link on the upper left (Common Cents Info). Then measure the rods and blanks you have. You should also go to the database to see how some of the rods you are familiar with measure using this system.
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Josh, I went ahead and put the picture on the photo page. It's no work of art but it is very comfortable. If you want to see a beautiful example, see the one Stan Grace posted a few days ago - mine looks like a dog turd compared to Stan's, LOL. Anyway, this gives you an idea of what I was describing.
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Yes, but your e-mail is hidden. E-mail me (click on my name) and I will send you a picture of my 3S60LF.
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Like Mike says, do whatever is comfortable for you. The more I use the handle design on Tom Kirkman's light line smallmouth spinning rod, the more I like it. I think it's perfect for any rod when you are mostly fighting the fish off your wrist or only need a little bit of leverage from the rear grip. It allows you to use more of the blank to cast and fight fish. If you don't have the RodMaker
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I have a Sully's double rod dryer and the two chucks are next to each other horizontally. I think if the back chuck (one furtherst from me) was 3 inches higher, it would make the work easier. I usually use the back chuck for the butt section since it has fewer wraps to finish and the front chuck for the tip section because that's where most of the work is. Another advantage is that if the back
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Three that I have built and can highly recommend are: St. Croix 4F793.4 Five Rivers FTL 803-5 Five Rivers FTL 803-6 For a fun little three weight at a truly bargain price I recommend Forecast F763-2 All of these rods are affordable when you think what factory rods sell for these days. Treat yourself to one of the top 3 I listed and you won't regret it.
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Well, if you like 9' rods and 6pc., then go with the FTL 904-6 as a great all-around trout rod. I prefer 8.5' or shorter. I don't really know why, but it seems like all my favorite rods are under 9' long. My favorite trout rod of all-time, is my pre-IPC 2pc. St. Croix 4F864 (3.86/72). It suits me perfectly. I fish it alternately with either a 4wt. ro 5wt. line depending on how far I'm castin
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I haven't had a chance to CC the Sig. V 863-4 and nobody else has entered the data for it yet either. Assuming that that blank is in the low 3s for ERN, I would probably go with that one or the FTL 803-6 and fish either with a 4wt. line since most of my casts would be on the short side and I like to use a lot of streamers which are easier to cast on a 4wt. or heavier line. If I was camping/back
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Good morning, Marty. I have built and cast the Sig. V in 966-4 and the FTL in 803-5, 803-6, 904-6, and 905-6. I have also CC'd most of the other models. I think the blanks feel quite similar and would cast and fish very similarly. I would say the main differences are the number of pieces and cosmetics. The FTL has a matte satin grey paint with none of the internal graphite visible (sort of l
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