RX-6 (F-764-4) great starter fly rod, and then in the RX7(IF793-4). I have built a few of each in the 3 and 4 wts for clients targeting the Shenandoah brook trout streams and have heard nothing but great things. Great overall value. I am currently building on a 8'6 4wt. MHX blank for another client and hope to have the guides on later today for some test casting. Feels light and very responsi
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Not going to be single handed casting then? Would not recommend cork tape for the main part of the grip. Your hands will hate you. Really not much weight to be concenred with by having the full cork. I like the look of the mixed material cork/composites like Beulah uses etc... Cool look and breaks up that total cork look.
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What kind of caster are you? What depth are you fishing in the salt and for what species? Guide favorite is the Rio SW tropical clouser taper. The Rio Outbound is also a good option (would go tropical short in the 8wt for Miami). Both lines are rockets. For fresh, look at th Rio Bass tapers or a freshwater clouser. Heads are designed to help turn over bigger flies usually associated with ba
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REC?
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Email VIkki as Mike is a moving target, especially with the redfish tournaments he is fishing and his guide business. Great people.
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Try Google.
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JS is the only one I have heard or seen that has them up to this point. Sure it won't be long but would guess Angler's could special order one for you. Would think some good deals on the left over Z-axis blanks would be coming soon which is a heck of a stick. Interested to hear what you find out on the CCS #'s.
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As a fly tyer, these modified dental products have some pros and cons. The pro's of course is how simple and fast you can apply and shape the adhesive as well as how fast you can cure it. However, most do leave a tacky residue after cured and require a couple extra steps to remove. This usually menas an alcohol wipe then overcoat with some type of clear nail pilish, permaglos etc... to get tha
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CP is helpful on NCP thread if you are trying to hit a certain color target. Do a color wand with Nylon thread, 2 wraps per color (coat one CP and then no CP), then NCP thread same deal (CP and no CP). Let dry and apply your finish. Will see a color difference. I think you can use too much CP and get that milky look too, especially if your CP is older. I like the Cason's CCRF preserver nowad
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Will be very happy with both!
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Mandrel method works very well. I like the method outlined by by Mike from Riley Rods. Their site has the step by step technique with helpful hints. Great source for any material you may need as well.
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Safe to assume you are double hauling with an 8 weight so 40-50' would be about right in terms of how much line is in the air while in your casting/loading stroke (not shooting stroke). Doesn't matter how much line shoots after that final haul correct? You just wouldn't want tp try and pick up 70' off the water. Strip back to what you can handle then re-load and shoot.
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Second the REC's if any potential to be in the salt. Also look at the Snake Brand and Hopkins and Halloways. Very nice snakes. Have a 9wt project that will have the HH TiCh snakes.
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Sage I believe uses the Struble fixed butts on their Xi3's, TCX's etc.... Mudhole, Anglers Workshop, Shofftackle and Merrick should have them. What seat are you using?
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Have built a few of the MHX 4 piece 8wt's and they cast very well. Smooth and crisp. Just finished a couple of Batson RX8 4 piece 8wt's and I feel these are a bit faster and also cast very well. I personally like the faster actions particularly when trying to punch a long cast into the wind or when I need to pull a lot of line off the water quickly, load it up once then let it fly. I really l
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Sea Level Flyfishing bought out the old Albright Tempest reels and the 9/10 is a great value. . The newer TempestS have been updated but either style is a great value. Have clients using them on False Albecore, striped bass and tarpon. I personally fish the Bauer Rogues and absolutely love them but do have a few rods set up witht he Tempest reels and they hold their own and for $220 yough t
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Back to your original question about the use of micros for a fly rod tailored around czech nymphing or high sticking. The ring size is a bit tight for fly lines, especially at your nail knot connection. With minimal fly line off the reel, your leader knots are always going to be interacting with the guides as you strip line in or fight a fish. For normal casting I think the micros would also b
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I know Mike fishes some of the redfish tournaments and has a charter business so gets pulled in a lot of differnet directions. Best bet is to reach out to Vikki if posible- her email is vikki@rileyrods.com.
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Frank- for corrsosion resistance, look at the Am Tack NIRLA for the first 3 then go to the fly style NIRLF the rest of the way. Great Value and will last. Also like using the Fuji ICYSG's then down to ICLSG's out to the tip. If money isn't the option, look at the Fuji TYSG and TLSG's. All of my personal inshore rods have these various combos. I fish braid almost exclusively 10-20lb PowerPro
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Might balance well actually. Most of the newer rods seem to be tip heavy. Not sure if it is because of the thinner wall blank construction puts most of the material at the tip. Some of the spinning reels are so darn light I always end up adding weight at the butt to balance. What reel and what blank are you considering?
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Thanks for posting the article Alex. As it stands today, I believe that G Loomis (NRX), St. Croix (NSi), Hardy, are the only companies with this system in production currently but it looks as if the technology will be hitting the masses sooner than later. In speaking with Gary Loomis at the ICRBE, I know he was playing with it as well and was trying to replicate some initial tests that were ver
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I have had the same exact problem with the thread carriage coming out. The three wheels are straight and with the grooves in them can become dislodged very easily when carriage tilts(due to weight of the spools). Wish the middle wheel was offset a smidge to give a tighter fit. Has anyone tried a different carriage? I called AM Tack. and never really got anywhere but was probably more my fault
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I am trying out some Fuji HBNG's on a spiral wrap for a Batson RCKJB606-250 Jig rod right now. Haven't tested them on the water yet but first impression is that they are tough. I know some guys are using the heavy Virtus titanium guides form AM Tack and love them.
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Always happens when you have that fish of a lifetime in front of you! Had a tarpon or two laugh at me over the years.
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Usually a speed thing. Line, leader and fly all play a part but comes down to control of the line speed for whatever you have in your setup. Watch your line in your back cast and see if you notice the wobble. Then watch your forward cast and see what if anything differs. If you do see a difference/wobble on your forward stroke, try to feel what was differnt or try to mimic the back cast going
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The light saltwater's have a gloss to them, except the L902 which is a matte/clear.
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Very nice seat. Little heavier than say a Struble but very nice.
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Bill, it sounds like you were also using the leftover cups from other batches you had previously mixed. Any dust or particulate in those cups by chance? For the most consistent results, I always use a new cup which I keep stored in a sealed bag. Hope you get it sorted out-good luck.
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I have fished the 9' 8wt and 10wt TCX's and they are rockets. Would think the switch rods would be similar. Also take a look at the Z axis from Sage-SWEET Stick!!
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The U40 has never been a problem for me. Don't put it on too thick and you should be fine.
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