yes...it will be loop to loop knots.
Forum: rodboard

Excuse the basic question, but I've been on a 3 or 4 year hiatus from rod building. I'm in the process of building a RX7 IF704 for my daughter, and looking at the following guides: 10 (stripper), 3, 1,1,1,1,1,1. I know that philosophies change in rod building, and new products appear, so any advice on the guide size or suggestions on single foot guides? Mostly concerned about size 1 being
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So I put down my final coat of epoxy (threadmaster light) down the night before I left for a holiday. I checked the job the next morning before the flight left, and everything levelled nice and looked good, BUT, when I was scraping off the excess, I apparently did it too many times around the label area and now I have a scrap line under my label area. I'm pretty picky and I don't like this.
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OK, I'm no pro at this, but this may work. Mix your epoxy with some pigment of black testors paint. I had some problems replacing guides, and due to the finish on the blank, I couldn't get my wraps very close to edges. I was using black wraps, so when I coloured the epoxy, they all came out jet black...looks like they're painted, but good. This may give you the same effect as trying to ad
Forum: rodboard

Water slide
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I haven't been able to get my hands on some mircro set or micro sol. If that's the reason, I'll pick some up.
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I've been using Decal Connections for a while now, and I'm having problems having them look the way I want them to. I've been placing them over a coat of epoxy after it has set for a day, and then later that day, I place the final coat. I'm having problems with the label going on smooth with no creases. Even when I get this to look fairly good, I can still see the edges of the decal (even th
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So the sharpies worked well for you? I may have to also track down some 'tint'.
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Not too keen on getting paint involved with this for the minor touch ups (thanks for the advice though...may end up going that way in the end). Is a black sharpie not a good option then for the VERY small parts that may shine through. How about the black NCP thread...is this a good choice?
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So, I removed the guides and butt wrap from a black St. Croix blank, and just like I've heard, the finish came off to expose the grey graphite beneath. I can't get a very even surface sanding on the blank either as the black finish (and last bits of expoy) leave a ridge at the edges. My plan is this: -Use black NCP thread for the wraps. I don't want the guide feet or the sanded areas of the
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Thanks guys.
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I'm building a rod for my 6 yr old daughter, and I'm looking at using a Fly Logic reel seat I've found in their Wild berry colour (it's a shiny dark pink/light purple). Anyone know which thread would match up best to this reel seat? Are there any other 'pretty' colored reel seats out there? (something a 6 yr old girl would like)
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Yup, planning on putting some masking tape around everything scratchable. So I'm just planning on taking sand paper in hand, putting the handle in the same hand, and then turn the handle until I get the size I want. Hopefully everything goes well. Thanks
Forum: rodboard

I have a grip that I feel is too big and I'd like to sand it down. Putting it on a lathe really isn't an option, so can I just hold it in my hand and sand it down...using finer sand paper as I go? How difficult is this; don't really want to try it if it messes the grip up.
Forum: rodboard

Has anyone ever tried to shorten the length of feet on the REC recoils? I'm not concerned that they're too long really, more that they are different lengths for the same size. I was thinking of fileing them so much that they would shorten, or cut them off with a dremel. My only concern though is the glue that holds the feet together coming apart and wrecking the guide.
Forum: rodboard

Well, I've build a bunch of fly rods and I've decided to take an attempt at a spinning rod. I pieced together a St. Croix package (blank, and pre packaged reels seat) to my preferences. The only problem is I'm a little confused with the reel seat. It's a St. Croix SGT-14 handle that comes with a fuji reel seat. It's the type with an ~12'' rear grip and then a ~4'' foregrip that turns down t
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I'm helping some people build a few rods this winter, and I know a lot of you here have built on Dan Craft blanks, so I thought I'd ask what's worked best for you regarding: 1. Guide sizes for the 10 foot, 6 weight FT and guide spaceing (gives me a starting point before a do a static test) 2. Guide sizes for the 9 foot, 6 weight FT and guide spaceing (same reason) (both blanks are four p
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Is there any dealers of Dan Craft blanks in Canada? I'm aware of Rocky Mountain builders, but would like to know who else is out there. Anyone in Canada order from the US? I'm pressed for time and I'm always a little unsure of charges when it crosses the border.
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I've just put on my first coat of Glass Coat. I need to then apply a waterslide decal, and then another coat on top of the decal. What I'm wondering, as I've never used glass coat before, is how long should I wait before I put on the decal and then the final coat?
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For that size of pike, I would go for a fast action, 9ft, 8 wt. Any lighter and you have trouble casting the flies. It's definately exciting watching those pike come after that top water fly. I still jump every time it happens.
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Has anyone tried applying the new waterslide decal directly to the graphite blank? (no microsol) I know they recomend not to do this, but I'm thinking of giving it a try so that I only have to put on one coat of LS supreme.
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I have a St. Croix ice rod kit. (the 28" ultralight). There are 6 guides in the kit (inculding the tip top). This seems like a lot. Couldn't find a guide spacing chart on their web site, do you guys have one? Should I not use all six guides that came with the kit?
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