A couple weeks ago I was able to pick up about a 60 lb chunk of willow burl. Since then, I had it cut up in 2" thick sections and is now sitting in the garage spaced, stacked & drying. Now for the questions. Is there anything I should do or can do to prevent splitting or cracking in the wood during the drying process? What are you're opinions of willow being used for handles or reel seat
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Thanks John. I'll give it a try on the next bottle. Jim
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Any tricks on preserving Tru-Oil? Seems like it films over really often. I thought about trying the permagloss can method but wasn't sure if it would help. Upon opening a new bottle, I even tried putting a pin hole in the top of the foil as to not let in so much air. No luck with that---still filmed over. Suggestions?? Thanks, Jim
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Which one would you folks recommend using on a reel seat made from osage?
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Tom, thanks for the line on the Phlueger Trion. Picked one up today. And Karry, thanks for your timely post. You just sold me another Rainshadow. Jim
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Guy's, thanks a million for the responses. I knew for a fact that I would for sure be steered in the right direction. The knowledge & info you folks share is second to none. Jim
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Looking into building a fly rod for Lake Erie Steelhead. In searching for a blank, I have come across a Lamiglas XMG50 9' 7wt close out sale at Mud Hole. Is this a good choice for the build? I would be fishing streamers & drifting egg patterns. I don't know much at all about fly rods, so I also need to ask what size reel would fit the bill? Any suggestions? Oh and almnost forgot, the blank is
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Just find it odd that M2 is listed on the tools. Shows how much I have to learn. Thanks everyone for the responses, Jim
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Mike, I already have an idea where this is heading. I got a pretty good deal on a Turncrafter VS with some accessories. Looking into the sharping system and a buffing system from psi along with the utility chuck. Already have Andy's DVD. Funny thing is, when I tried to watch the DVD, my DVD player fried. $70 bucks later my pretty good deal kinda evened out. LOL. Thanks for the tip on the wood
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Thanks Billy. When I purchased this outfit from a neighbor, he also gave me 5 tools that came in a small wooden box. Belive it or not, box says PSI woodworking. The tools have HSS M2 stamped on the shaft. They might work out pretty good although they look to be pretty small. I'll probably get a couple large ones. Any idea what the M2 stands for? I'm new to the lathe. Quality of the steel maybe?
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I recently purchased a lathe which came with a 3 jaw chuck, jacobs chuck,spur & live center. I'm also in the process of ordering a 4 jaw utility chuck from psi. I would like some opinions on "middle of the line tools" to use for turning reel seats. Not the least expensive & of course, not over the top. The tools will be, a spindle gouge, parting tool, round nose scraper & sk
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Sounds good. Thanks
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I have about a dozen peices of tapered eva in about 18" sections. I'm ready to get into another build & would like to use eva for the handle but here's my situation. The inside diamiter of the eva is 3/8, which fits perfect at the very butt section of the blank. At the tip end of the forgrip, there will be about a 1/16"gap. I think I have read where you can build up the gap using
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Thanks Bill, I think I'm on the right line path so to speak.
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Steve, first guide zero, second (bumper) 90, 3rd 180
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Tom, the actual line path on the guide itself. The bumper guide is placed on at 90 degrees, the line comes off on the bottom of this guide just as the article shows. Load is pressing into the blank. The following guide (180), the line path looks to be 3:00 on the guide. Sorry for the confusion. Does this make any sence?
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Reviewed the article in Rodmaker on the simple spiral (thanks Mike Barkley for reminding me why I subscribe) & compared the pictures of the line path to the blank I'm working on. The load placed on this guide seems to show up at the 3:00 position as well as my blank. Is this ok? The bumper is right on at the 6:00 position. Thanks guys, hope all who attended the show this weekend had a great t
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Cool, thank's Tom. Guess I was reading too many posts concerning this topic.
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Please help me understand this. If a blank does not know the specific reasons it's used for, why run the static test 2 times. The casting test, then flip the guides over & do it again? I'm a little confused. I will mention that I am getting ready to apply this bumper method to a trolling rod use for Lake Erie walleys. Want to also send out a thank you to Ray & Billy for the advice on clea
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Will give it a shot. Thanks again
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Ray, thanks for the quick response. What grit paper would you suggest?
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Just finished my first EVA grip & used a rod bond ramp at the foregriip. Everything turned out pretty good until the finish was applied. Seems the EVA soaked up some of the finish & now the transisition doesn't look crisp at all. I also noticed the same thing in the photo section of some EVA inlays. Is there any way I can try and clear this up. I even used tape to mask off the EVA. Didn'
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Just received the set from Fish Sticks. These buggers should work great!
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Thanks for the respons Dave. Please check your e-mail for clairification.
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I have alway used some type of cork when building grips. I am now getting ready to build a Batson RDR trolling blank using EVA as the grip material. Besides preference, please share some insight on what is the best method to install a rubberized butt cap. How much blank section needs to be covered? Is the EVA tapered so the butt cap fits over it? All replies welcome. Thanks, Jim.
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What method is used to wrap the area of the blank in a split grip? Before or after the grip is complete? Seems I have read before that it's easier to complete the wrap with finish, (which makes sence since there is no grip material in the way) rod bond the rear peice by sliding over the wrap into position, then clean off any excess epoxy, or just slide the peice on from the rear? How do you guy'
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Jerry, since I had the rod bond ramp in the plans, & if it's going to be "easier" which in my case nothing ever is, I'll stick to that. Thanks again guy's.
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Thanks for the responses. Tom, on the part concerning the ramp. I was building the ramp out of rod bond. In your reply you mentioned "EVA ramp". Would you suggest the ramp be tapered EVA?
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I have a few questions making sure I'm on the right track. I received a couple of Rainshadow RDR blanks (Mike Barkley, those buggers are black as black can be) and have decided to use EVA as the grip material. I have read the article in RMM concerning the basics. First question--can I cut the EVA using a power miter saw for exact cut angles? Secondly, I know to use the contact cement to glue up
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Sounds good, Good luck with the build.
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