Thanks guys! I should just come to you all before I go looking. :-) Any recommendations on a pitching rod in the 7"0" - 7'3" that can handle light jigs? I haven't picked the reel yet either, but I want to get as light and as sensitive as possible.
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Does anybody know the blank weight of the NFC MB 705-1? I am wanting to build a pitching rod for lighter jigs (1/4oz) this winter and I am looking at this blank or the Batson RX8+C843. The Batson comes in at 2.46oz. Thanks
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A little less elbow grease and a little more proactive wiping down..........I knew it. Thanks Michael!
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Is there something I can use to protect a blanks finish? I am referring to the blank itself, not the epoxy that we use to coat the guides. I have, on occasion, used a little to much elbow grease when wiping up or away dried epoxy or wax pencil markings and rubbed the blanks finish a little raw with DNA.
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How do you go about finding out what blanks a production rod manufacturer uses? Is that open and available information? Is it on their websites and I am just missing it? For instance, Kistler does not hide the fact that they use NFC in their Z-bone offerings............do other companies do the same? Do production rod companies use MHX, RainShadow, CastAway, etc..........like we do?
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I haven't used a tack cloth, I just thought maybe it would work. I thought wrong. :-) I build for myself, and might go a few days between wrapping and finishing.........is there a good way to clean off the wraps before finishing?
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Thanks Tom! Sounds like I need to take better care prepping the wraps before finishing. Pretty tough to do with my current setup in a shared room (dining room). :-) Am I correct to assume that using something like a tack cloth will help pull any particulates away from the wraps before I finish them?
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For the lack of any better term...........what causes the pockmarks or sinkmarks that show up while the finish is setting up? I have watched closely, and didn't see any air bubbles. Is this just the "path of least resistance" and the finish is flowing to other areas?
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Hello Everybody! I have a couple of newbie questions.......... 1) Are the methods to decrease viscosity and increase pot life the same across brands of finish? I am using LS Supreme Hi-Build and would like to get some more time out of it or make it more manageable while working with it. 2) How many coats of finish should I be putting on? I am currently on 2 and I see some thread exposur
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They look really good. Very nice!!
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Thanks! I think that is the ticket and what I will do. Much appreciation!
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I am in the process of building a rod and using decal logos for the first time. The finish and decal didn't turn out the way I wanted them when I put them on the rod. Is there a good way to tear down the decal and finish in that area to reapply and refinish or am I stuck with what I have?
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I have been looking at the 6ft or 8ft aluminum rod wrapper for a few weeks now. Hoping Santa brings some spending money this week!
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I would like to get some information too. Thanks!!
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I posted the same question a week ago. They are saying mid-December. There are doubts out there.
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I am building my first two crankbait rods on RainShadow E-Glass blanks (GCB710MH & GCB70MH). I was reading the Static Guide Placement in the library. Great read, but I have one question. In the write up, it says "You should already have some idea where the butt or stripping guide is going to be located". How do i get to that point? What are the steps I need to take to dete
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I know some of the sponsors of the board make decals for customers, but do they also help with creating the artwork? I don't have Adobe Photoshop or Corel Draw and don't want to buy it for 1 design. Are there services out there that help in this area too?
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Any new information out there on timing? Who is going to have them? Thanks for the info!
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George Forster Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some seats, like the Fuji ACS are actually meant > to be reamed a little bit; so, you buy one that is > slightly smaller than your blank. That particular > seat is graphite construction, and very easy to > ream by hand. Does that go for all casting seats, or is it different for an exposed re
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Is there a rule of thumb regarding reel seat sizing? For example, if a blank is 13.8mm will a 14mm work just fine or is it best to use a 15mm and build up to it with arbors? Which is better?
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What technique is a good way to fasten guides to the blank so I can test cast w/ reel, line size, and guide size to assess if they are appropriately sized and functional?
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What software is needed to design a decal? Thanks!
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After using blended blanks for crankbaits and spinnerbaits, I want to go back to glass blanks. Anybody have any recommendations for them? Small Crankbaits (1/4 - 3/8oz) Large Crankbaits (1/2 - 3/4oz) Small Spinnerbaits (1/8oz - 3/8oz)
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I have a few requests: 1) Drop Shot blank recommendation 2) Big box store Drop Shot rod recommendation 3) Senko blank recommendation 4) Big box store Senko rod recommendation I have not owned rods for these techniques, and would like to visit my local big box store to get an initial feel for how they are normally set up. What I found from my first build, Shaky Head technique, is t
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Hello Everybody! I finished my first rod build a few weeks ago and have been using it now for a few weeks. Overall, I am pretty satisfied with it and anxious to get started on the next rod. I do have 1 question though. I was out fishing this past weekend, where the weather was pretty treacherous (rain, rain, rain), and I noticed the finish above my reel seat was "hazing". It
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What do you use to sand them? I might need to a little, but not a lot. I was really working to get it perfect, which I know isn't needed because I will be wrapping it up.
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I am building my first rod right now and its for Shakey Head. I am using a MHX SJ843. So far, the build has gone well. It is a very economical blank @ $50.00. I will probably go with another blank next time so I can get a side by side comparison in the future.
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Just finished up. :-) Nerve wracking!!!! :-) I love this relaxing hobby! :-) Thanks!
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Or, maybe there is a rod builder in the Cincinnati area that wouldn't mind me watching over their shoulder. :-)
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Ok, first attempt at epoxy ramps with 10 minute Rod Bond was not successful. I think I got intimidated by it in general, and I wiped away the Rod Bond pretty quickly. Is there a step by step tutorial or back issue of RodMaker that covers this? This is my first rod, so I don't have a lathe to build anything or winding checks to use (unless I purchase separately now) as a base so I am somewhat s
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