Look at the Rainshadow FSU56XH or FSU56XXH. I would use silicon nitride or silicone carbide turbo guides. Does he use a lighter leader, or straight 80?
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How about the Minima (skeleton type) reel seat? Acid Rod and Mudhole both have them. []
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I always use NCP "A" thread on the underwrap and pack it tightly. No need for CP or finish until overwrap is done.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not needed at all. Just as Bob stated a good prep > on the guides is all. > > If you are unsure mark where the guides will stay > mask with 1/4" tape. Then put a good coat of > permagloss on. This way you have a coating that is > hard fast drying, and easy to wrap over. > Under
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"A" underwrap, guide, "C" overwrap, thin epoxy coat, "D" overwrap.
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The trim band might not be tight enough. Those pics are kinda small to see the fine detail...
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For heavier saltwater, I'll tie braid to the spool. But first, I will put 1 layer of gaffers tape around the spool. Second, I leave a 3" tag end, then I tape that down, too. Adds weight on light stuff, but works good on the heavier!
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I understand, Tom. I prefer to underwrap. I'm not trying to be critical. It's just my preference.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > They're not at all necessary from any functional > aspect, so unless you simply feel you need to add > them for some aesthetic purpose, you might want to > omit them. > > ............ Maybe not on light freshwater or fly rods. Build heavy freshwater or almost any saltwater rods, and
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Unless you are putting a lot of epoxy on the underwraps, the weight an underwrap will add can be measured in milligrams. I underwrap all guides except on fly rods used in fresh water.
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I live in Vegas. Depending on the epoxy used, it may soften in a hot car. Seen it happen before.
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Bill Jovanovski Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks Matt, > > You're right. It does take on a golden colour. > Tried a small section in the back and yellow and > it definately look more gold. I was hoping for > more of a yellow colour. I dont suppose you can > send me a pick of the one you did which has the > yellow and black u
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I used canary yellow with black and it came out just the tiniest bit more subtle. Still looks and works good. The yellow will take on more of a gold color when combined with the black.
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I've only built a few kits. Not one has come with an arbor.
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I'd stick with C unless you're putting a ton of epoxy over the base wrap. Even then, I'd stick with the same diameter thread.
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Acid Rod was not stocking it a month ago, for whatever reasons. I got mine on the net. Hobby shops have them, though. Office Depot, Michael's, and Staples do not.
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I'd go a little lighter line class than that, unless you're targeting shark and ray. Even on jetties and pier, I use 8 to 17 lb. test for almost all inshore fish. 25 Lb. for smaller sharks, and 30 - 40 lb. for large bat rays. I'd recommend a good 8 - 20 lb class rod, 7 to 8 feet long for the inshore fish. Use a larger bass reel with that, and that's all you will need for most of the inshore
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I used a 1 1/4" PVC cap threaded onto a 1 1/2" PVC reducer. I drilled a hole in the cap and glued in a 5/16" dowel. Tapped holes in the reducer for set screws. The 5/16" dowel fits snugly in the square hole of the rotisserie motor with no need for glue. Might need to be shimmed eventually, but it's held up for a dozen rods so far.
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I don't use color preserver on black thread, so the thread is a truer, darker black. Just my .02!
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A on single wrap, or A as a base wrap and C or D as overwrap.
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