Thanks for checking, guys. I appreciate it.
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Does anybody have a VisWrap script for Reversing Chevrons. I have erased mine and don't have time to re-write it. Sure could use some help.
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My bad. I mistakenly saw Photo 12 as part of the inlaid thread explanation, not the narrow band sequence. Thanks Wiltz Ledbetter
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Thanks, Tom. Being lazy, I was hoping somebody had come up with a better way. Your suggestion will work just fine. Thank you very much. As an aside, can you tell me if Photo # 12 was omitted on purpose from your Library article entitled Narrow Trim Bands and Thread Inlays? I cannot seem to make the narrow trim band method works smoothly. Maybe Photo # 12 will enlighten me? Thanks
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I almost always add very small trim bands on both ends of my two-footed guide wraps. I also like to occasionally use a marbleized epoxy finish on a completely wrapped guide, but I do not want the marbleized finish to run over onto the small trim bands. I would appreciate any suggestions you might have as to how to keep the marbleizing off of the small trim bands.
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I have finally gotten around to studying your book. I'm enjoying it, but I do not understand a couple of things and want to ask some questions. Question 1 - 2nd Paragraph, Page 5 - "Each pass thereafter will be 4 threads per pass (2 for the White cross which is wrapped OUT on both sides, and 2 for the Grey box which is wrapped IN on both sides." I am assuming that you are referring
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John - Thanks for the follow-up. I understand what you are saying. What I was trying to say previously was that, in the past, I have always decided early on whether or not to compress or elongate a pattern that I was preparing to wrap. I just never was prepared mentally to do one or the other in order to achieve some specific end, other than to get close to the desired number of pattern re
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Don - That clears it up for me. Thanks for the follow-up. Regards, Wiltz.
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John, I really appreciate you taking the time that you obviously did to respond to my question. I had ever considered mixing compressed and elongated spacing within the same wrap. Heck, I have enough trouble keeping up with just one spacing at a time. Absolutely no reason at all that this won't solve the problem, and I am going to try it. When I started wrapping some 20 years ago, I took in
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Thanks, Don. I appreciate you following up on this. One last thing. I want to be sure I understand your post. You say to locate the first pattern where I want it (0n the 0 - Axis). That's what I am trying to do. Then you say that the first pattern will be 1/2 the length of the pattern as determined by TOS. I understand and agree with that, so long as we are talking about the 180 - axis.
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Here's some more specifics and an example about what I am struggling with. Basis: My zero-point (L = 0) for all measurements is at the very tip-end of the foregrip which is already installed on the rod. Only the 0 - axis is being considered. I normally allow 25.4 mm for a hook keeper wrap immediately up from the end of the foregrip - before star
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Assuming that the blank taper is "less than slight", thus forcing the use of tapered offset, do you know of any way to do the layout so that the 1st pattern layout threads cross at a specific place on the blank. There must be a way, since many of the guys are locating cross-wrap patterns directly under guides. Thanks Wiltz
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I want to layout a closed butt wrap on a bass rod, so that the layout threads for the 1st pattern cross at a specific point on the rod. I am very familiar with the tapered offset method and have used it for years, but can't figure how to do this one. Does anybody have a way to do this other than trial and error? Thanks Wiltz Ledbetter Montgomery, Texas
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Matt, your post did not mention what type of winding check you were asking about. Unless you are doing something very, very special and need a decorative check of some sort, why not go with the tried and proven black rubber winding check? Rubber winding checks stretch a lot and basically form-fit to the rod. A 5/16" diameter, rubber winding check would work just fine for the 0.335 inch
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This is a message to Gabe Neal, who replied earlier to this topic. At your convenience, please drop me an e-mail at wmlengr@consolidated. net. I have another question that I would like to ask you about the old guides you have. Thanks Wiltz Ledbetter
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Got some VBG guides coming from Custom Tackle Supply, another sponsor-supplier. Thanks Wiltz Ledbetter, Jr.
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I cannot directly solve the problem you are are wrestling with, but I may be able to help you feel better about it. When I first started wrapping rods 20 years ago, I was horribly confused about why it was so difficult to make a closed wrap close exactly. I had a pretty good background in math and geometry and I was certain that I could develop a mathematical solution to this age-old problem.
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I agree to keep it simple right at first. I do suggest that you invest in a magnifying lamp with a swiveing arm for your workbench. The one I have been using for 20 years has a 9" diameter fluorescent lamp with a 5" magnifying glass. I used it even before I started wearing bifocals and could actually see Size A thread. The older you get the more you will need it. Good luck. Wi
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Thanks everybody for all your help. Member, Whit Engle, has reported that he has some real old guides that sound like they may be what I am looking for. He is mailing me some, so when I receive them I'll update this post and let you know if they worked out or not. Thanks again.
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I have also successfully used a heat gun and solvents to remove unwanted epoxy. Instead of Xylene, I use methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), but you gotta be careful with that stuff. Use it sparingly - outside - and never, ever around an open flame. Good luck. Wiltz Ledbetter
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The only guide left on the old rod is the tip top, which was silver soldered to the steel rod. The tip top guide is not attracted by a magnet, so I am guessing that it is stainless, and probably chrome plated. I can tell that the missing 5 guides were originally attached to the rod with thread wraps because parts of the old thread wrappings remained on the rod in places. Back in those days, th
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Good suggestion. I'll give it a try. Thanks Wiltz Ledbetter
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Does anybody happen to have any old stainless steel (probably chromed) double footed guides guides without ring inserts? I am trying to restore a 50 yr old True Temper, all steel, fresh water baitcasting rod. I really need 2 or 3 guides with Size 7 or 8 rings; 1 - Size 10; and 1 - Size 12. I happen to have the original tip top. It's a long shot request I know. Thanks for looking around.
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