Right on! I placed an on-line order on Saturday afternoon and received it Wednesday afternoon. Standard shipping! Wow, what service.
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Since I'm always looking for very light weight (high performance) rods I generally will strip all coatings or paint from a blank, just to remove the weight. Or I am careful to buy uncoated blanks if available. This is for finesse type fishing.
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Wish I wasn't 950 miles away. BTW, James bring $$. First time I went, Mike Barkley (God rest his sole) made me a believer in being able to use the cheapest and simplest tools and equipment. I miss him greatly.
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Adam, this sounds like an excellent learning situation for your scouts. Lots of decision making for your SPL and the Patrol Leader's Council. The very best to you from an old Woodbadge Scoutmaster. Bill
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Mark, I can tell you that Lance (or Bill Stevens) are the best source for the redfish rods. I tried some of my best bass rods and tackle....and what is required for redfish is definitely different. Swampland is your best contact. Wish I had some of Big Al's seafood!! Bill
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I wonder if you wrapped it with white 000 silk and then coated it with epoxy (no CP). The silk would go transparent and the epoxy would seal it down & kep out moisture. A new decal would sure be the nuts if you can. Bill
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Brent, If I am building a fresh water spinning rod, I prefer the Am Tac Aero seat w/ split grip. I cut off the threads even with the nut and do not have a fore grip. The seat is modified to fit the intended reel. And your fore finger can touch the rod for better sensitivity. This way there are no threads exposed and the whole rod is lighter. Like Craig said, it is custom--your decision. Hav
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You will also probably need a hole to allow the air escape when the epoxy goes in.
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Pie are round!! Cornbread are square!! At least it is in Arkansas!
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Just a thought...when you are casting and the line leaves the reel, you don't really know where the pawl guide will be... so...the line has some pretty sharp angles thru the pawl guide as the line gets stripped off the reel before it ever gets to the butt guide. Another thing as Bill Stevens ( & Steve G.) taught me, there is little reason fot eht butt guide to be any larger than the pawl gui
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I'm with Jay!! Haven't built a conventional casting set-up for several years, but most all of my builds are for bass & small mouth bass here in Arkansas.
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I can tell you that if you are audited, the IRS will ask you the question (under penalty of perjury) if you do any bartering. You better declare the value of the bartered services.
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I would have the motor rebuilt. A craftsman rebuilding a motor will make sure all the clearances are right, etc, etc. Kinda like getting a custom made rod. Every quality rebuilt motor outlasted the factory many times. Most times the rebuild cost is less than a new one & you will be certain it will fit. Now if you need a bigger motor, or you want a variable speed, a rebuild won't do. Jus
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It is really good to hear from Bill Stevens. Hope you are up on your hind legs & back at rod building. Bill
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Aggie Rod??? DUH, Put the reel seat on the tip!! Don't think they make a tip top with a large enough tube for the butt of the rod!! Aggies couldn't figure out why they couldn't grow chickens when they planted them in the garden with the feet up. Sorry, I couldn't resist, being a Razorback for over 50 years! Bill
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Ken, is that the book spline ot the spine??? I love it... Can'y stop laughing. Looking up or down???
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I use a paper clip thru the tip top & use a rubber band in the other end of the tip top to something solid. Then apply gentle heat to the tip top. When the adhesive (epoxy or hot melt) has melted sufficently, the tension on the rubberband will pull the tip top off the rod. This removal was someone else's invention, not mine, but it works wonderfully & insures that you don't damage the
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This should be very interesting, because very few understand that the "moment of inertia" is a property of a particulat geometric cross section, perhaps a hollow circle. It is not dependent upon any properties of the material in question. That is to say that the moment of inertia of a hollow carbon fiber tube (fishing rod) is the same as the moment of inertia of a hollow steel tube of
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Mouse eyes?
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Others with more eperience than I can help here. The first thing I do is to mix up some gel epoxy and mold it around the base of the rod up to the edge of the reel seat. Got to be careful to not get the epoxy on the rel seat threads if this is down locking. Clean up thoroughly with the solvent of your choice. Hold the epoxy down just a little so the reel seat is a little proud so thread and fi
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Sounds to me like this is the right time to learn about the "epoxy ramp". It can be molded to fit the existing situation. Just a thought. Bill
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Also you must realize that when looking at the epoxy in the bottles you are looking at about 1 inch of thickness. The finish on the guide is a small fraction of that. Therefore you don't see much color in the finish. Even after mixing and pouring it out on a flat surface, you will not perceive much in the way oy color. I really like using the 000 silk thread for the really small guides and t
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Michael, you better take Jim up on that deal. Two years ago he let me have dinner with Gary Loomis. I still owe Jim a Buffalo River Smallmouth fishing trip for that one. I was recovering from a hip replacement last year, but am planning on making the 1000 mile driving trip in 2013. Bill
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Lance, good to see you are OK
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Downlocking & cut off a lot of the threads & no fore grip. Lighter & more comfortable.
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The fit of the sections can be adjusted so they will not come loose. There was an article in Rod Maker that will describe the process in detail. Can't remember the issue.
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OSHA has regulations to establish permissible exposure limits. These regulations are directed to protect employee health and safety.
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Zachary, Joe is spot on! My fishing is done seated in a canoe in small streams. Rod is generally at one side or the other or tip up, so the spiral w/guides on the bottom works great for fishing or fighting in my situation. If you are standing - generally tip down- guides on the top might make more sense. Like Tom has said many times, you will not fish a rod in only one axis, so not to worry a
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Go with the spiral and the smallest guides that will pass the line & connections. You will love the spiral. I use the spiral on crank rods & worm rods & really love it. I don't think you will be unhappy. Largest running guides I use are #4. And forget that spine non-sense. The lever arm of even the shortest guide will create a greater torsion that any built-in "spine".
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Tom, as always you are spot on. With a low rider casting reel (revolver) with 6# mono Lower Buffalo River smallies it is working great for me. BTW, can't even remember putting a fore grip on my rods, especially the UL spinning rods.
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