I copied another one. Thanks to Billy40 on another great pattern. Tried to make a yellow rose and put a walleye weave on the end using Doc Ski's pattern. If you haven't noticed already, I'm a lousy picture taker.
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This is my very first weave attempt. Used Doc Ski's 'deluxe walleye' pattern. Please give me advice on how to improve it. I am not very happy with the middle portions of the weave as the threads are not straight.
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My first attempt at a Tartan wrap. Put pheasant feathers on top of NCP white.
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I copied somone elses wrap with this one. Not as good as the original but I tried.
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I tried a crosswrap variation with diamonds and pheasant feathers wrapped on top of white metallic. Picture didn't come out very well as it is extremely shiny.
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I've did several for bottom bouncing. A lot of good feedback on rods built to lengths between 6'8" - 7' with medium heavy power. Also, the ones I did with a spiral wrap were well recieved.
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There could be any number of contributing factors to this problem. Do a search of the subject and you will get all sort of ideas. I know I had this problem from time to time as well and found that the source was that I wasn't getting enough finish through the thread down to the guide foot. Also, I thought I read once that only about 30% of the strength comes from the thread and the rest comes fro
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2, 7, & 26
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I have this lathe with the VS option. Personnally, I like the ability to start at the slowest speed possible for the range I am working at so that I minimize the effect of something coming loose when I first turn it on (due a setup error on my part). After I have confidence that nothing is coming loose I can turn up the speed to whatever I want. One thing I don't like about the speed ranges av
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I bought the same lathe two months ago. It worked for two weeks and quit. It turned out to be the variable speed control box. If you check out customer reviews on Amazon for this lathe there appears to consistent problems with the controller. It took me two weeks to get a new controller but ifLinda from PSI got involved earlier it would have been resolved faster.
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John; I made a weave pattern of the breast cancer ribbon for a person last year. I thought it turned out good. You may not be up to weaving yet but this one is pretty easy. I'll send it to you if you like. I bought one of Mudhole's pink blanks and put the ribbon weave on it. Then I made a butt wrap with hearts using white thread as the background. The finished rod sure turned a lot of heads
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If you want a little contrast try Gudebrod Garnett thread.
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On a blue St. Croix IV blank I use metallic blue & metal silver as the base and regular dark blue Gudebrod on top. Very happy with it.
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Like Bob, I also make my own chucks from PVC caps. But instead of thumb screws I bought an inner tube for bicycles and attached to the PVC cap with a basic plastic tie-down. The trickest part for me is to couple the chuck to the motor. Keith
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Another con (at least for me) is that is more difficult to align the guides on the blank once I am done wrapping.
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I apply finish before cutting of the ends off my butt wraps once in a while, especially if I used Madeira. It works well for me. One caution I would give is that beware of the tendency for the threads to soak up the finish ahead of where you apply it. Kind of like a wicking action. So you may want to stop a 1/2" short of where you plan to put your tie downs at. Keith
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Mike; The transition guide I am referring to is BUNAG, which is a single foot guide. Also, the setup I described earlier will result in the line barely touching the blank when it is put under a full load, although it doesn't drop over the side or under the blank as Tom cautioned about earlier. Usually it occurs between guides 2-3. I don't know how many guides it would take to prevent that usi
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I've wrapped quite a few 7' medium, fast actioned casting rods using alconite guides. My standard set up is to use one each of the size 12 & 10 double foot guides, one size 8 transition guide and five size 6 fly guides (8 guides in total). Measuring back from the rod tip, I place my first #6 guide at 3", the second #6 about 6 1/4" and so on. I don't have my notes with me now but I b
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Built mine into a spinning rod. Works great for tossing small lipped crankbaits. Also use for slip weight rigs on walleyes. Those long rods with extra fast action can sure make a small fish feel bigger. You'll have fun with it.
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Do a search in the photo page using the keyword of 'tartan' and I believe you will find some pictures that include comments on the layout and sequence used. At least that is what I did when I did a tartan wrap.
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This is my fourth year and now build 15 - 20 rods a year and consider this a great hobby. I sell some of them to associates now but I don't charge much more than my cost. I probably look at the hobby differently than most but I take into account that rodbuilding keeps money in my pocket by becoming a 'cost avoidance' more than a cash producer. The hours it takes to make a rod with a fancy buttwra
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LS Regular for the first coat, LS High Build for all additional coats.
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Think about a G-Loomis WB813. I use two of these as bottom bouncing rods. The spec's show it is for weights less than an ounce but I find it more than adequate for bouncers up to 3 ounces. This blank is one from their walleye series and is brown in color.
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I have used both many times over the last couple of years in the 2 lb dia - 10# strength class and have developed a strong preference for Stealth. PowerPro fades to a white color and becomes so limp that it wind wraps around the guides way to easy and often. Stealth seems to retain its original color better and be a little less limp. They both retain their strength well and are good lines, but I'
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Thanks everyone! Air entrapment is something I never even considered. I can see where it can become an issue with the routine I've used lately. One additional question though, if anyone wants to answer; When applying finish in the direction suggested by Bill or Lou, is it helpful to put down pressure with the brush onto the guide wrap? Kind of drive the epoxy into the tunnel/cavern. Thank
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Looking for advice on how best to get finish into those nasty little tunnels between the guide wrap and blank. My current approach in inadequate as the size 6 and 7 guides will come loose from time to time. Thanks in advance.
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Looking for advice on how best to get finish into those nasty little tunnels between the guide wrap and blank. My current approach in inadequate as the size 6 and 7 guides will come loose from time to time. Thanks in advance.
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll adapt and do better. The type of hot melt glue I 've been using is FerroLite, which I used for years to glue inserts into aluminum arrows. It has plenty of strength for that use so I assumed that it would not be a problem in tip application. Thanks again.
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I have intermittent problems with the tips I glue on coming loose and twisting. I feel like such an idiot because this task should be so easy. I use a hot melt glue stick and order tips to fit the published tip size. On the tips I find loose I'll take and pull them off and it looks like there isn't much for glue on them. Probably not much advice possible to give here (other than basic common
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pressed post one too many times
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