2008 ICRBE
Forum: rodboard

2008 ICRBE
Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Simple full length rear grip made using 8lb density 2-part foam.
Forum: rodboard

Simple full length rear grip made using 8lb density 2-part foam.
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I too have one from Acid Rod and the adjustment clip is my only complaint. A little duct tape took care of that and I can honestly say it was some of the best money I've ever spent on rod building!
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This may cause the hair on the back of a few purist necks to stand up, but I routinely use the blue "painter's" masking tape to remove the dust and stray golden retriever hairs that seem to gravitate to my thread wraps. I just touch it lightly to all sides as needed and have never had any issues with applying CP or finish afterwards. I'd certainly give the blue tape a try before remov
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"I'm also wondering if spectra has some kind of residue or coating on it that will cause problems with my flex coat in the future." Can't speak for all spectra products, but I've been using both power pro and suffix braids for years and never experienced any problems with flex coat, LS supreme or thread master finishes.
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Better to have (wax) and not need than need (wax) and not have. ;)
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If you apply a nice coat of wax (I use an old candle, some use paraffin wax) to the mandrel and make sure to apply only enough glue or epoxy to the rings to get the job done, you should have no trouble removing the cork from the mandrel.
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The less than stellar pre-grinding of titans isn't anything new and apparently isn't likely to change. Below is a thread from nearly 2 years ago in which I too said I wished they'd just leave them alone and let me do the grinding. Got pretty much the same response too. I still use titans on a few rods, but would most likely use far more if they weren't pre-ground. It really is a pain to corre
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Sulky metallic!
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Without knowing the blank used or the components outside of an agate striping guide, it is hard to say if the rod was really "worth" $300. Heck, for all we know it was built on a $300 blank. To be honest, I'd question the use of a traditional agate guide on a graphite blank, but that may just be me. Depending on the blank and the components used for the grip & reel seat, along wi
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Don't know about any "new" blank material but I did see a blank with a solid titanium tip that felt real interesting ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Along those lines, is it safe to assume that since there were 2 tickets included in the mag, that I can invite a non subscribing guest so long as he uses a n original ticket?
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Yep, easily over a year ago. In fact the blanks sat in a rack for close to a year before I worked up the nerve to build them because of the expereince I had with the original 3. Two of those rods broke on a hook set inside of the first week of being used and when I contacted Shikari about replacing them under warranty, the impression I got was it was a pretty common thing. But the replacement
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With all due resepct Tom, I have a pair of rods built on Shikari SHX blanks that were sent directly to me from the factory after a long converstaion with Rose and there's absolutely no finish on them. Now maybe they were pulled off the "cull" pile and maybe they weren't, but they are perfectly straight and have lasted over a year, unlike the coated ones I purchased at full price. If t
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Just prior to Shikari going under, I built 3 rods on their PSB662 (SHX) blank. Unfortunately, 2 of the 3 exploded rather quickly and the blanks were replaced by Shikari under warranty. The blanks were drop shipped directly from Shikari and neither had a finish on them for what it's worth.
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As a long time user of titan guides, I was right with you Darrin until the "arrow shape foot" comment. That's one thing about a lot of guides that I just can't stand and it is the first thing that I grind down when prepping a guide. A simple blocking wrap or Forhan locking wrap is all one needs to prevent guide pull out. Won't stop me from using the new style titan fly guides but I s
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Well I can tell you, from a rod I worked on yesterday, that a bottom layer of black & metallic gold with a top thread of royal blue, looks like crap! LOL Might just have to build one of those slide-holo-rules ......... Edited to add that with a couple coats of finish over the above mentioned color combo, the warp doesn't look half bad at all! Still going to build one of those slide giz
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My understanding for the sealing is to keep as much of the adhesive on the surface to give the flock somethings to grab hold of, for lack of a better term. The flocking is really tiny strands of nylon and one end needs to stick into the adhesive and the other end sticks out to form the soft texture. There are literally thousands of these tiny strands and the thicker the adhesive layer (within r
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Edited cause it just isn't worth getting into a public @#$%& match over. As for me, I'll stick to cork and balsa wood for my grip cores for the time being.
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When these boys say "free shipping" they absolutely mean free shipping! I placed an order with them late last week for a pair of Baston ISB802.75 blanks, a reel seat and dream reamer and much to my surprise, it was shipped USPS PriorityMail without any additional charge over the listed prices of the components! I was fully expecting to be hit with a shipping charge on the blanks,
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Didn't mean to give the impression that I had anything at all to do with the tutorial. Heck I have never even seen a Matagi weight system in person, let alone installed one.
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Here's one man's method for doing it.
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Thanks Tom! I willingly admit that I really stirred the stuff in an attempt to get the two parts uniformly mixed. The part A was a dark, molasses color and the B a clearer epoxy resin color and I made every effort to end up with a cream like color before pouring. No doubt that I probably added a bunch of air to the mix and I'll attempt to avoid that with the next kit.
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I've pretty much used up the last of the 4lb kit I purchased about 10days ago and it's likely I will wait until the outdoor temps here in southcentral PA climb back into the 80s before ordering any more. It's probably just me and the fact that there's no way to raise the temps inside my house much above 70ºF this time of year, but I had a heck of a time getting decent cores. At first I was mak
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What's a 6" between friends, eh? Chances are you're correct as math was never my strong suit! I purchased a 4lb kit of the 8lb stuff and based on the pouring I did today, it will make enough cores to keep me going through the better part of 2008.
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If my math is right ...... 0.5 cu ft = 864 cubic inches a 1.5 dia cylinder = 1.75 sq inches Therefore 0.5 cu ft of the stuff will make about 495 inches of 1.5" round stock if you use the PVC tube method described in the article. That should be more than enough to keep a hobby builder busy for awhile. Keep in mind though that the volume stated for the kits is based on doing the mixi
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I just poured my first two cores today with the 8lb variety and I am very impressed with just how tough this stuff really is. I was a little worried that it might be brittle or fragile like the flex coat arbors, but the 8lb stuff is really tough. I took a hammer to a small piece I cut off the end that oozed out the top of the PVC tube and it took some pretty hard whacks without much damage. I
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