Base wrap is done with black and white NCP. Top wrap is done with dk. blue (246). No CP is used either on base or top wraps.
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Base wraps are done with garnet and NCP white. Top wrap is done with garnet. No CP is used on either the base wrap or the top wrap.
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This tiger wrap has no CP at all. The base wrap is dk. blue and NCP white. The top wrap is the same dk. blue. The effect is a little more muted than with CP or an NCP top thread, but I still was pleased.
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This is my first tiger wrap.
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Main wrap of 396 brown, bordered by ole' gold, then 1892 olive
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Inscription area with simple feather inlays.
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Burl Walnut Seat and Grip
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These grips have cork at their core to lighten the weight.
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My favorite blank for that technique is a 3S66LF (FWIW, I use 6 lb. mono., not braid). Anyway, this rod will cast an 1/8 oz. jig-head and grub a really long ways, and has enough backbone to land some pretty big smallies (as long as there's no cover to deal with). If there's cover to deal with, I'll step up to the 3S69MLXF and 8 lb. mono. I can't cast quite as far with 1/8 oz., but the extra
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For your first build, I'd go with something a fair bit cheaper. Personally, I really like the Batson RX7, Pac Bay Tradition/Rainforest, and Amtak. MHX makes awesome blanks, but they'll be a tad more expensive. To get exactly what you're looking for, you may have to really spend some major $$$$. You can build a great rod on these brands mentioned above, and the total cost will be pretty cheap.
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I do the same thing Ken does. I went to a big box store, bought a cheap 5" sanding disc, chucked it in my lathe (drill would work too), and put the fine (220) PSA sanding disc on it. I then sit on a chair next to the lathe, hold the guide up near the neck of the guide foot with a pair of locking hemostats, and put the guide foot against the disc sander for a few seconds, while the lathe is
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My experience has been similar to Jan's. When I was using conventionally-sized guides (i.e. 6-12), I did the simple spiral. I have an entire set of SCIII bass rods using this technique, and they are fantastic. Now that I've started using micro guides (i.e. 3-6), I've been using a slow spiral per the instructions of Duane Richards. Both set-ups work well, and I'd be hard-pressed to say which i
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I buy everything but brushes and Devcon online. There's just no other way to do it. I've bought from Angler's Workshop, Swampland and Mudhole primarily. The selection and customer service from all three has been fantastic. Based on your location, I'd call the guys at Swampland. They're in Louisiana, and they're really tuned in to the fishing in their region. (They're likely to know abo
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I'd stay away from sewing machine thread. There's no telling what sort of coating it has on it. For wrapping thread, the smallest I know of is Pearsall's Gossamer Silk. I've used it quite a bit. It's tiny, tiny. And, when you put epoxy (or permagloss) on it, you can make really low profile wraps (i.e. less weight). If you do use it, just make sure that you use a color preserver design
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I don't have a power wrapper either. I turn the rod with one hand, apply epoxy with the other. Depending on my level of caffeine for the day, my hands get a little shaky too. But, I always try to have my brush hand laying on top of a something (i.e. block of wood), or laying against the rod support, just to get rid of the shaking. Then, when I'm done applying epoxy, I use a strip of coffee
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Likewise, I would suggest starting with a much cheaper blank. Personally, I'd go with something like a Batson RX7 or a Pac Bay Rainforest. The St. Croix's are awesome, but still a bit pricey for a practice rod. The RX7s and the Rainforest blanks are good quality, pretty and quite inexpensive. I have several that I fish with on a regular basis still. 1. If you have reamers, you can use the
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It always depends on the client. My tournament fishing clients always want the absolute lightest rod. That means high modulus blanks, split grips, split seats, spiraled micros, and very little finish. My casual fishing buddies just want cool looking fishing poles. That means lower modulus blanks, conventional guides, decorative wraps occasionally, figured wood reel seats occasionally, etc.
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Cutting the blank will almost surely void the warranty. If that's not an issue with you (or your customer), then go ahead and chop the thing down to 6'9" or 6'10". I find that I really like that length--not sure exactly why. I cut mine down with a dremel.
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I vote slow spiral: 6, 5, 4, then 3s to the tip.
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Depends entirely on what size lure you fish the most. If you're really gonna' throw 1/4 to 3/8 oz. baits, then the 70MM is a gem. I own and fish the 3C66MM with those smallish cranks, and it is a true pleasure to fish. You'll love it. If, however, you're actually going to fish 3/8 to 5/8 oz lures most of the time, then the 70MM is not nearly powerful enough, IMO. You need to step up to the
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The CastAway casting seats used to have the barrel formed to be the same size as the hole. I think they may still be that way? Someone will have to chime in and say if they're still that way. I can't say for sure, because I bought a BUNCH of CastAway seats before the seats were re-designed. They're my favorite casting seat, as they give as much blank contact as a split seat, and all the stabi
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You can use whatever works, IF the o.d. of the cork/EVA pieces are really close to the o.d. of your reel seat, and IF your customer likes it. For my own rods, I use a 2" piece on the butt, and a 2.5" for the piece right behind the reel seat. BUT, most of the guys I build for prefer at least 3" right behind the reel seat. 2" just seems a bit too short for the piece right be
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9" from the butt to the beginning of the reel seat is about average. It's what I use on all my personal rods, and for most of my customers' rods.
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Just finish it, go fish it, and see what you think. At this point, there's nothing to lose in spending a little extra time in finishing it, then fishing it. Might be too long, but I think you'll find it's ok, perhaps even good. If it turns out to be a dog, then you can go to the trouble of stripping it back down, then re-doing it. But, might as well just test it out like it is. . . .
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Most of my fishing occurs in clear water with little or no cover, so I don't need a lot of backbone to move a fish out of cover. My two rods for 1/4 to 3/8 oz. spinnerbaits are a 3S66MF (built as casting), and a 3C68MXF. The taper on the 3S66MF allows for hard hooksets, but the blank will also pretty easily bend down into the mid-section on a bigger fish. That little bit of extra bend also hel
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I start the process by putting the reel (that will be used) in the reel seat and clamping it down tight. Then, I take my 1/4" masking tape, and make a very tight turn or two around the front edge of the front hood/nut. The next step is to unscrew the front hood/nut over the tape (if the tape is tight enough, the front hood/nut will go right over it.) Once loose enough, take the reel off,
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There are some blanks out there that have really HARD finishes, and some that have soft finishes. Because I've peeled the soft finish off a few blanks (doing what you described), I went from DNA to Isopropyl alcohol (70%). It doesn't do the job as quickly, but it doesn't break down those soft finishes as quickly either.
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I buy mine from Angler's Workshop also. I think you'll be surprised how many different types of feathers they handle.
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