Forum: rodboard

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slices 2 1/8" and 1 3/16" rings out of a 1/2" ring
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Are we going to find out what it is before the expo, or will we find out when we get there?
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My favorite rattle trap blank is the RX7 IP844.
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I cut it off about .150" beyond the nut when a reel is installed. I then trim the threads off the barrel of the seat to where they stop right at the edge of the nut and then square it up with about .050"to .060" sticking beyond the nut and buff with a unitized wheel. I do all this because it makes my epoxy ramps even since the edge of the reel seat is now concentric with the bla
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I recolor them because I don't use CP and on most thread colors bare metal can be seen through the thread wraps.
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do you guys bother to coat the filed guide with > anything? Would salt water use can that answer? I use a black acrylic paint maker to recolor the guides. Available at Wal-Mart.
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If you are talking about a steel lathe head then it won't work because steel cannot be anodized. I would suggest looking into powder coating. If you are talking about aluminum parts then the benefits would be increased corrosion resistance and better wear qualities because anodizing hardens the surface of aluminum.
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I only see the 2010 catalog on their website. Can you point me to the 2011 catalog?
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I remember Bill saying that CP is not needed, and I would prefer not to have to use it. It is definitely air and not a fisheye. I just trim the area with a razor blade and put my second coat on an all is good. It is not that big of a deal. I am just trying to lessen the hassle of having to trim out the bubble.
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From what I have noticed about epoxy's is that the hardener is usually amber colored, which would make bottle B the hardener.
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I am having an issue with Big bubbles forming on the edge of my decals. I am using white waterproof vinyl with the edges colored with the acrylic paint marker recommended by Bill Stevens. The finish is D2. When I apply the finish it is perfectly bubble free, but when I check it after a while there is usually one huge or a group a tiny bubbles that have formed where the seam is. I am pressing
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I treat it as two separate guidewraps and do not epoxy between them. It all boils down to personal preference.
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I have a customer who has requested a picture of a jig on his RX8 MB844 that I am building him. I make my own decals but am having a hard time finding a picture of a jig that I can shrink down small enough and have it look good. My photo editing skills are not the greatest. I would be great if someone had a picture of a solid jig and pig like Loomis uses. Thank You
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As hard as it is to believe for a $100 rod the Rick Clunn rods have Gunmetal Fuji SIC guides on them. Which size do you need? I have a 3/4's of a set I stripped off a rod that I will not use I will send you the size you need .
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The RX7 ISB 782 has turned out to be an excellent topwater blank for me.
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I have had better luck using Quick Bond for epoxy ramps. It starts setting up quicker and is easier to shape with a finger dipped in denatured alcohol when it is halfway set up. I have had instances where I made the perfect epoxy ramp with regular Rod Bond and set the rod upright. I was using a Batson seat with the ridges instead of an arbor up front and the RB actually flowed into the seat le
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Bill, will you elaborate on "acrylic black touch up"? Are you just talking about acrylic paint, or is there a specific paint marker that you have used with good results?
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I understand it is not part of CCS and that Is why I would like to research it and any other system out there. I would like to make an educated decision on which system to start using for all blanks I build on.
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I am have recently started getting into CCS/URSS and have heard about RDA. Can someone point me in the right direction with a link or a word I can search for RDA. It seem that the search function does not support 3 letter words as I get 0 results. Thank You, Andy
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Has anyone ever tried reaming a Batson blank exposed reel seat up from a size 12.5 to a 15? I know the best avenue is to order a size 15 and it seems like a lot of reaming to me, but I would prefer not to have to order another reel seat since I would like to start on my flipping stick this weekend. Anything I should be careful for?
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Steve, Why do you recommend the use of a size 6 tip?
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Are there any braced micro tops available that match the Batson micros? All I could find were unbraced on the Batson site.
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A typical guide setup for me is a DF 6 or 8 a single 6 SF and the rest are 5 SF. Spiral wrapped either simple spiral or Revolver. My most used guides are Alconites.
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What is a typical Bass flipping stick handle measure? I am measuring from end of rod to the trigger. I am thinking somewhere around 12 inches. Am I correct?
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I is it necessary to make a tenon when mating a burl cork grip to an ECS reel seat? It seem like it would be so much easier to just butt the pieces together instead of turning a tenon in the grip like I have been doing.
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Try a printing/graphics shop. They will most likely have 99% IPA in gallon bottles. Maybe you could work out a deal.
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Thanks for the info.
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What I am asking about is how much can be saved compared to normal retail prices. The setup that I am looking at is treating our relationship like contract labor for his company. He already has all the business licenses and is wiling to pay the excise tax on all rods sold. Any income that I may receive can be reported as misc income for me come tax time. It seems like an ideal situation for me
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