I placed an insert from a guide between the two guides on a simple spiral wrap. The ring keeps the line off of the blank yet keeps the transition as linear as possible
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Split grip GL3 marble on split using toothpick drag method while rotating. Testor paint, no solvent with TM Lite
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black/silver under, red met over
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Allstar split and tiger. Black met A-9001 and Silver A-9002 under no CP, Red met A-9326 over no cp one sacrificial
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This picture shows the tiger with the new plit and the color scheme of the Falcon rod
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not near as good as Doc, but trying....black A-001 and yellow A-209 with CP under, chestnut A-5274 over no CP one sacrificial
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Short answer- Not if done correctly. But I do have to ask, why would you spiral wrap a light med hvy (not sure what that is BTW) crankbait rod?
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FWIW, I just completed a build on a 6'8" SCIII M XF, and ended up with 11 guides. After the static load test, I did not like the line path with a "normal" spacing (3", 6.25, 9.75, 13.75......), or with a non-increasing increment 3"x 7 guides. I ended up with seven 3mm Fuji SiC spaced 2.5" apart at the tip end combined with three 4's (what I had in hand) down to a 7
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Thank you for your answers and information. It is appreciated. I picked up some polyester casting resin and will attempt to make something similar to what Mick created, albeit less pronounced. I do have some concerns about leaving it exposed, but will experiment and see what happens. It will be a trial....... I will post pictures when I am finished. Thank you again
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I have searched the forum and through the photo album. I tried to do my homework before posting the question; I am still unclear. I want to place an image on a flat butt cap and then clear over. I did some practice sets with TM, CA, and a hobby resin (Hodge Podge). The CA dried hazy and the hobby resin is too soft. The TM feels hard and is clear, but I worry about the durability. I plan to
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Ahhh, I see. Makes sense. This is why I have a tub full of cork and EVA.....It always look different on the website then when I get it in my hands. I would ream out the hole and shape to the taper I want. If you do not have the means to sand/taper, then I would just ream to fit, glue, and cover with the check. Be careful reaming from the small end as there is not much material and you could
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Chris, I followed your link, but it went to a fighting butt only, and I am unable to determine what your question refers to. Two suggestions: Contact Mudhole; they can answer any question regarding their products. Second, view the "Photos" section under grips and handles and you should be able to see tons of split grip examples. If you give a little more detail, help may be offe
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I did something very similar to what Ted described except with Met Red on top. It matches the red trim bands on the rod very well. I'll agree that most Throop wraps with Metallic top threads are muted, but I think the metallic underwraps help the contrast a bit. Hope this helps link to photo
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Tom, The butt guide is 24" from the reel face, the ring bumper is 4" from the butt guide, and the ~175 guide is 9.5 inches from the butt guide One more note is that the handle is not very long, which affects the placement of the butt guide
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Thanks James for the reference. It did not come up with my searches. I was not first, but at least I am good company. I was getting the rubs while in use. Static testing with flexing in my shop was not an issue. I took it to a pond and threw a spinnerbait and I was getting a lot of rub (used baby powder to indicate contact) especiall if it was under load I had the same concerns regarding
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Last year I built a simple spiral wrapped rod for bass fishing. It was one of my first spirals and I went dbl 8 to dbl 6 then 3.5's all the way out to a 3.5 tied as a tip top. I wanted to use this for an all around pitching rod (hence the dbl 8, easier to grab the line if I wanted to flip on occasion). What I did differently was instead of placing another guide as a bumper, I used the ring fro
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PG gases off, and if it is still drying, you will get air bubbles in your epoxy finish. If it has completely dried, you should have no problems.
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see if this what you are looking for..... I mixed black, white, and silver Testors paint (poured off solvent) with epoxy. Placed the mixes on foil. I then made a gradient of seven colors by mixing different ratios of the black and white to obtain multiple shades of gray. I applied those on a base of gray (middle of gradient mix) with the black, silver, and white for a really neat effect.
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is this it?
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A search will pull up many threads on this subject. There is no right way or wrong way. Personally for rods that are casted, I sprial the same way as the reel handle; the rod lays flat that way. For trolling, and especially if the rod is sticking out towards the side at ~90 degree angle, I would spiral so that the line is toward the back of the boat. It may not matter much, but the guides are
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The butt guide is ~21 from the reel seat. The reel seat is ~ 73 from the TT. The rear split is 8", leaving 3" for the reel/reel seat itself (with the nut tightened). After taking in the the thoughts put forth by the experienced and knowledgable folks on this board, my thinking has evolved a bit. This may be what you and Raymond were getting at- It is something other than the one 3 m
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Perfectly reasonable question Jim. I am sure that I did not miss a guide because I flex tested the rod to make sure the guides were holding solid. It would have been apparent at that time. But it would explain the situation if that were the case
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3- 6.5- 10.5- 15- 20- 27- 35- 43- 52" (3-3-3-3-3-4-4-7-10) 8" from butt to bottom of reel seat Just realized that I cannot count I am an idiot. I am very sorry. I ask for help and screw it up......again, sorry My original post was inaccurate on one part. it was 10 guides plus TT, I left off one of the threes. I removed one of the six top 3mm guides and respaced the five .
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Raymond, Nope, just the top five 3mm micros. Removed one of those and re-spaced the remaining 4. There is a lesson to be learned here and I am missing it..... Steve, I used Batson 4's and then Fuji 3's. The Batsons are a little taller. Do you think I can improve performance with a better transition to the third guide?
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I am building a topwater/jerkbait rod on a ISB843. It has a relatively short handle, so it builds out more like 7'4"-7'6" rod. I may also pitch with it, so I wanted a taller butt guide (easier to pick the line up) Conventional on top (mostly tip down use). I static tested the blank and taped everything up. It ended up being 10DF-7DF-4-4-3-3-3-3-3-4TT. I casted it and it was ok. Wr
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I just built three rods, 2 spinning and one casting on the ISB822.5 and I agree for small topwater and jerks, this is a great blank for the money. For Frogs and Spooks, I would move up to the ISB843. The Castaway XP3 blank is awesome as well. I would either use the 822 or 823 for topwater choices in the OP I built on an 842 for finesse baits and light jigs and it is a great blank for the mone
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My curiosity is piqued. Looking at the picture, I wonder if the blotchiness is stemming from the fact that metallic thread does not readily absorb the CP, and as such the CP is pooling unevenly on the rod blank? So what is actually being seen is lack of reflection or transmittance from the blank, and not a characteristic of the thread interacting with the CP and epoxy. If this is the case, wou
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Justin, I had the same exact problem not too long ago. Try New Guide Concept and other phrase derivatives. For some reason that search does not work. I tried 27, 27X, 27 X, 27x, and nothing. Stranger than friction. Good luck
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Take a look at the new Ardent flipping/pitching reels. They are on to something there........along the same lines that Bill was talking about. If they made lefty's, I'd buy two.
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I was the person that made the statement in the 3 page deep thread that Ken mentioned. I will offer that I agree that spiining outfits rule the finesse arena, and that one must use the proper tool for the proper job. My subjective opinion based on my experience is that my baitcasters will outcast, in distance and accuracy, my spinning oufits. These are comparisons made with Chronarch or Scorpi
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