Bob, Do you really need to fill the gaps between the arbors? I believe Ralph O'Quin said you don't have to do that. Might save you some product and weight. Les
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Ben, This might work or not...if you don't have a lathe...could you use a mounted drill? There are some pictures of this somewhere on the forum. ...in the past I have put an arbor (or cork ring) on a quarter-inch threaded rod or carriage bolt and used various size washers to get the correct diameter (or close to it). Find two washers for the diameter you want or close to it. Put one wash
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I bought a couple of arbor blanks....1 1/2-inch square foam blocks that are about 12-inches long. (Dimensions are approximate). I cut off a piece and turn to fit as needed. If you use masking tape, be sure to coat all tape surfaces with epoxy to keep moisture out. Les
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Thanks, Jay. That's what I meant about the ends meeting. And, as you said, they should meet on the bottom of the blank where you'll not see it....though if you do it right it is very hard to tell. Les
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You rock, Karen!!! Les
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I noticed the same thing the other day, Mo. The SIC has a thicker ring. Not sure why. I'll have to get the calipers out and see if the I.D. is the same or smaller on the SIC. My guess is that it is smaller just from observation. Good eyes, Mo! Les
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I have a technique that works for me, but it may be hard to describe. If you are going to be at the Rod Expo, look me up and I will show you in person. It's not too hard and avoids the crossover of the base wrap color. You end up with a single uninterrupted line of color. I'll try a written description. This may be too confusing, but I'll try it: Start your base color wrap as normal and wra
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If it is a space greater than 4 or 5 mm I'd consider using a foam arbor as well as drywall tape. Turn arbors on lathe to snug OD with handle. Ream arbor for snug fit to blank and glue up. I glue my arbors on first and let them cure so they do not slide when the handle goes on. If you use regular tape, be sure to coat all tape surfaces with epoxy to prevent the tape from disintegrating a few ye
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I like an extra fast action in a 6-foot blank. Single piece. St. Croix makes a couple versions of this. North Fork blanks (I don't have the chart in front of me) the same. I used a Loomis Mag Lite 721? (1/32 to 1/4 oz. 4 to 8 # line, extra fast) with excellent results. I like a little backbone in these rods for controlling the hooked fish. I like to feel that "tap" of a crappie bite
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I like the NPS seats. They are light and non-metal (except for the hoods). It is a simple matter of putting a piece of tape over the metal parts if that sort of thing makes a difference to you. (The Tennessee handles are fine for 'warmth' but I think it is overrated. Unless I am using an all metal seat I do not notice that much of a difference. When it is cold it is just cold.) For a spinning
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I am somewhere in the middle... I use a throw away brush but keep it clean in the U-40 brush cleaner. No problems with it. If you want a good brush cleaner, try the U-40. It does not evaporate and cleans many brushes. I pour a little in a cup, wipe excess epoxy from my brush, dip it in the cleaner, wipe off again, and they clean the bristles in the cup...leaving it to soak. The light weight of
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Just got my VS unit back from Penn State for a warranty issue on the control circuit board. Evidently, this model of Turncrafter (TCLProVS) has some issues with the module going out. They did repair it at no charge, but it took several weeks. Les
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Here's a good tip: Use the string bobber stops like Jay mentioned, cut the tags very close, and put a tiny dab of Dave's Flexcement all around it with a toothpick. Let it dry for about a minute. It works great for me...and you can slide the stop up and down with no problem. I've not had one come undone after long days throwing float and fly on Dale Hollow. I carry a small bottle of Dave's i
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Goofy me...I thought it was a DVD for playing! Ha! Tom, I sent mine back to you thinking it was for the DVD...and it is a collection of PDF files! Sorry! I'll gladly pay for sending it back to me....LOL! Les
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I bought the same blank on sale and am thinking about how to build it. I was thinking of making it a casting rod for crankbaits or trolling CD-9's and slashbaits for walleye and wiper. I'm already considering how the butt guide will restrict the telescoping portion and want to make allowances for that. I haven't done the guide spacing yet but I am anticipating what I will see. The blank is
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I put a drop at the opening and it seems to get wicked in just fine. In fact, I often have to add another drop on the second coat on larger guides. The smaller guides seem to fill up the first time. No tilting. No packing. Not for me, anyways. The finish pulls right in. Good idea to apply a drop at the guide foot opening first, then apply to the rest of the guides. I sue a 20# test titanium w
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I've never regretted quality and expect to pay more for it. There are a couple blanks that have my attention.
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Deer, caribou, moose antler....these look great shaped into a beveled end-cap or as winding checks! I'm saving the hardened epoxy discs from the bottom of my mixing cups for turning. We'll see. Ever try snake skin? Feathers? Insects? John Timberlake sells some great wood checkerboard rings at the ICRBE...looks classy. I like the acrylic pen blanks, too, for certain things. They shape,
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I love my SC (III ; IV; and V/VI) 68MXF. This rod is a classic! Love the sensitivity of the extra fast action and backbone for casting as well as hooksets...great worm or all around rod, IMO. Two of these models I extended to 7-foot and they are wicked! I made another one of these into a spinning rod for jig and pig for a buddy....he loves it. It'll jack their jaws, as they say in Tenn. I woul
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I make mine snug but where I don't have to force it. If you have to push too hard you might move the tape. Also, I find it is important to make sure the rod bond makes it through all the layers of the fiberglass tape. I do this by putting a turn or two of the tape on and then applying a layer of rod bond, make a couple turns and smooth/mash it down with a spatula, then add a couple more turns and
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Now I'm in trouble....BE is just up the road from me! Karen, you do a great job! This looks like an excellent product line. Les
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Sounds like she needs a tough blank to hold up under dead-lifting fish and 'horseshoe-ing' fish and heavy rigs over the rails. Seeker sounds like a good bet...I'd stay clear of the higher modulus blanks for durability issues. I'm not a pier fisherman but I have done some of it and observed what goes on. Give Karen a jingle at Bingham Enterprises (a sponsor on the left). She may have access to
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Check your local mom and pop 'everything under the sun' hardware store. There is one such store near me and I swear they have at least one of everything! The aluminum does add some weight, but there are times this is not necessarily a bad thing if you want to balance the rod in a certain way. In general, I don't like to add any weight, but I did a build recently where adding a 2-inch extensio
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I've caught plenty of 8-pound pike and they won't do this to a rod's guides....not so many of them! My guess is that it was damaged by some other means...stepped on...rod locker...load shifted onto rod...envious fisherman with side-cutters... Is this a warranty issue?
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There is a great article in one of the back issues of Rod Maker about reel seat ergonomics. Look there for some great info on what makes for a good fit. If I remember correctly, measure his/her hand from the wrist to the tip of her longest finger. Then I believe it is 10% of that (in milimeters) for the reel seat size. My hand, for example, is 20 cm long so 10% is 20 mm which is a good fit. I
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Thanks everyone! I called a small motor repair shop here in KC and after I described the troubles the man said it sounded like the control box and not the motor. I read where you've had similar issues, Keith. I have an e-mail sent to Penn State and I will call their service hot line, too. I want my lathe back in order! I've got the turning Joneses! Les
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Last year I bought a Turncrafter Pro lathe with variable speed. It has run like a champ until a couple days ago when the motor turned off on its own. I hit the re-set button and the motor started up again, ran for awhile, then it quit. I checked the outlet and cord. I opened the variable speed case and gave a look at the connections...all tight and nothing charred. The motor now barely turn
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If the spurs are not too tall I'd just go ahead a put on my second coat. There have been times when I used a razor to trim the tips, too. By keeping the epoxy thin on each coat, I have frequently used three coats, sanding and trimming the second coat before the third is applied. Believe it or not, I can keep the build-up lower with three thin coats than with two heavier ones and the results ar
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Andrew, I have used a 4mm guide for ALL the guides and it has worked really well for me. This set up is on a 6'9" casting rod spiral wrapped. The weight savings is huge, and the rod is so much more responsive without all that extra guide weight. In my opinion, as long as you space your guides so they follow the natural bend of the blank you don't need to be down to the quarter inch. A
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I used an eight weight for chum, reds, and silvers in Alaska and it worked quite well. You could go with a nine weight and be okay, too. I think a seven is a bit light and a ten a bit heavy unless you are hunting the kings. Different kind of salmon fishing in Alaska, I'm sure, than what you are going to do, but I imagine the fish are in a similar size range and fighting mood. One little th
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