i had purchased several different cascade rod blanks last year and am now finally getting to building them.....this is my first attempt at saltwater fly rods and am looking to order parts to build them with. How is the best way to figure the sizes for the parts (reel seat/grips/tips)? I have a: Cascade RX8 (9' 2pc 12/13 wt) Cascade RX7 (9' 4pc 9wt) Cascade RX7 (8'6" 2pc 7wt) shou
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i am fairly new to using much in the way of cork tape grips but I have been admiring many of the pix i see on this sight with the nice, flowing transitions from the end of the cork tape to the rod blank....my question is, what is the secret? should i be using a rubber winding check that I can epoxy over? I have just been threading over the cork and onto the blank and transitioning that way....it
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i am repairing a lower cork grip (about 10") that was chewed up by a dog....what i am attempting to do is to remove the remainder of the damaged cork grip and then to use cork tape........i have gotten most of the cork off but i want to get the surface pretty clean b/f i apply the cork tape.....i was looking for any suggestions as i have gotten most of the cork off but i didn't know if i sho
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i am building a pitch bait rod using a 6 1/2 calstar grafighter blank....i am using a slick butt and a 10'' foregrip....i reversed the reel seat as well so it works more like a unibutt..... the problem i have is that w/the 10'' forgrip and the reversed reel seat, it is harder to align the guide....i did mark the 4 sides of the blank but when i am placing the guides it is still hard to referenc
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i use calstar grafighter blanks in 6 1/2 30-80lbs for white marlin rods which are also a nice fit for sailfish and sm.tuna....the blanks are sensitive and light and i use tuff butts to keep the weight down as well...it couples really nice w/tld 25's.
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i have been given a rod repair job on a fiberglass blank that the owner wants new guides put on....well, the guides had been removed already and upon inspecting the blank...there are several areas on the blank where it was covered by the underwrap that have been chipped off and you can see the white fiberglass (the blank is black)..the chips are small and the rest of the blank seems fine.....
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when using cork tape i finish the ends with thread and then epoxy, and before i wrap them i tape them down. what is the best way to secure the butt end of the cork tape which will then be covered by a rubber butt cap? should i wrap that end as well or can i leave in taped and just cover the tape w/rod bond? thank you josh
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i have always been nervous to use older flex coat to finish wraps, i usually use it to glue grips, but you guys are saying it is fine? when flex coat crystalizes in the container is heating it your best option? and if so...what is the best method to heat is up.... jk
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i am looking for any suggestions on cleaning up a rod. i am looking at improving the appearance of several rods that see very heavy saltwater duty and are structurally fine, but there are scuff marks on the blank and some minor scrapes on the epoxy thread coverings....I don't want to strip the rod down to the blank and refinish it because i feel it doesn't need that kind of attention....i really
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yes...thread wrapping finish.....it works great...it might just cost more than rod bond but i don't see any lack of strengh as long as you mix it correctly
Forum: rodboard

i primarily construct stand-up/trolling rods used for tuna/sharks.....I have always used masking tape or glass wrap as a spacer for my reel seats and uni-butt ferrules and over the years have never had one bad experience. I either use rod bond (or 5 minute epoxy for uni-butts) and sometimes flext coat finish to glue together. After reading many post about the superiority of the flex coat arbors
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i am working on fixing a teaser rod that uses a unibutt...the problem is that when the unibutt/ferrule was glued on it was off center just enough that it looks wrong as it doesn't line up with the butt wrap design or the single guide..... is there a way to remove this unibutt ferrule from the rod blank....would hot water work or perhaps heating it w/a heat gun....i am not looking to save the uni
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i know this must have been brought up in prior messages but I was looking for an easy and efficient way to secure guides to the rod prior to wrapping. I have been doing more spiral rods and have been experimenting more with different guide positions and i get frustrated moving the guides around and resecuring them...any suggestions would be appreciated jk
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i am using a 10'' atc smooth butt for the 1st time and was wondering what would be the best method to transition from this to my reel seat...when i place the butt next to the reel seet the butt seems to be quite a bit higher than the seat..... also...can i use masking tape spacers on the smooth butt? thank you josh
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