- - - - - to put on ANY top, I allow "space" for glue; that is ; a loose fit seems to be what is "practical; and NO sanding; might weaken the walls. . . . . .
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It seems to clean rods with soap and water, as said above, is the right thing. However there is a time factor involved. Cleaning should be done just as soon as possible. Doing it the next morning has giver the water a chance to evaporate and leave a reside, sometimes in tight places. Flooding with a garden hose (nozzle off) pronto is a good start. After many years of r
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This may help a few who may have a CRITICAL shipment. BRIEFLY - - - - - - I build boat models fo wood during Winter - - - - I had one to ship to Puegit Sound, Wash. (24"L. x 21" H.) Was in a glass case; further encased in a wood crate - - - - I had the info. on an airline that did NOT use conveyors; fork lifts; and not associated with a railroad and/or local truck deliver
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About my last post on USPS "tubes". I checked the web site. I "goofed". . . . . There is "no charge" for "tubes. 3" I.D. Min. order is 10. (page 5 under "supplies")
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Several years ago, I received from New York to here (MD.) a 2pc. "Harnell" surf rod. It was packed in a card board box in triangle shape. The first I have seen of these. They are sold by USPS. The rod was in good shape. I saw no visable damage to the box. I believe the web site of USPS probably shows them. Might be worth checking out.
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Our shop here is heated at 70 degrees 24/7. However; we heat everything with a hair dryer about 5 minutes whether it be epoxy; enamel; varnish; whatever; all before use. With the epoxy it SEEMS that it is more fluid when using the syringe for mixing. Is it possible we generate bubbles when measuring? There is need for more knowledge than we have here.
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Here is an event that pleased us. . . . . . Like everyone we have been battling bubbles for many years - - - - - Over a year ago we bought a motorized in-trade epoxy mixer - - - - Several montha ago we had a project to put new finish on two 6' 6" rods; all mixed in the motorized mixer. We used Flex Coat Lite. with color added.. There were two coats on each
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Using a brush? Try cutting the end at about 45 degrees - - - sort of like a painter's sash brush - - - works fine in some situations . . . . . . .
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Those fingernail "file boards" are pretty handy to get rid of a little fuzz; etc.
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I've got a piece of small diameter rod about4 ft. long; and is straight after checking. It's fed through the guides. Alignment can be checked with guides either up or down; along with eyeballing.
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To remove CA glue thre is a product called "debonder"; usually comes in 1 oz. bottles; takes effort but it works. Polish remover comes 2 ways; WITH acetone; and WITHOUT acetone. Check the labels. . . . . . .
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Rods do break - unfortuently) - - - if exactly at guide wrap - - - coincidence ? ? ? or wrap too tight which weakened blank ? ? ? Only seen one in many years.
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From auto mechanics; and other trades; get a high quality skin lotion then load the hands heavily BEFORE the days work - - - helps - - - especially at clean up time......
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Just briefly - - - - - This involves charter boat fishing ( I had one - Ches. Bay ) - - - The last few days we had been catching large fish ( 10 lbs. +/- up to about 30 to 40 lbs. ) during the Spring Trophy Season; about 15 - 20 yrs. ago. Another boat Capt. showed me 2 of his identical store bought trolling rods. They were twisted (not exactly alike). Spiral wrapped -NO. Routin
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"Gougeon Brothers" make the West System Products. They publish a small magazine twice a year (free). The latest issue is No. 28/ Spring 2009. In it is an article w/photos; title is - -- "Attaching Line Guides to Fly Rods with G/flex". The article is by a contributor. The article is not on the web site yet - - - www.epoxyworks.com. NO comment from
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I use rubber bands -- - work fine - - - - even for static tests - - - - I have 4 marjorine containers ; each with a differen size -- - the loose end of the rubber band is kept out of the way with a wire tie -- - - -...................
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Using a PVC cap and thumbscrews for a chuck - - - - - - To avoid any contact with handle - - - - Pick up an old useless inner tube at tire shop (usually a freebie); cut piece (s) about 1 1/2" wide; and about 3" long - - - - wrap around handle; hold in place with a rubber band - - - - let thumb screws contact rubber piece - - - - - adds a little m
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For alignment I eyeball as others. Two other things help, as -- - - - 1.- I have two pcs. of small dia. rod. One is 3 ft.; the other 4 ft.. Both determined to be straight. With the guides "up" or "down" (rod held stationary) a pc. of small rod is fed thru guides. Any guide out of line shows easily. 2.- A reel "stand" has holes in it so as a c
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RESPONSE -- - - - - - - I used the tape on several rods where I wanted nice straight edges when I was applying epoxy to guide wraps - - - - and; when applying a coating to a label; to have nice straight edges on each end. Note:- I use rubber bands to hold guides in place for static tests; and for wrapping.
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There is a tape called PARAFILM "M" ( a laboratory film). Its used a lot by model builders. It does NOT have one dry side; one sticky side. First it is stretched; then it becomes only tacky. Leaves no residue. Almost clear. Not much experience here; but so far so good.
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JESTER : - I have a "HARNELL" rod (original) - - 9 ft. - - 2 pc. - - surf rod. I bought it several years ago. Its black in color. -- - has a metal chrome plated reel seat like a "Jarmac" -- - white composite handle and foregrip. - - - The guide wraps were O.K. but showed some wear; so I decided to remove them and re-wrap with original colors. The guides are &q
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Awhile back I was on a project and the tape got involved with my nine fingers and three thumbs; etc. trying to set up some guides. An onlooker demonstrated the use of a rubber band. Just by putting the rubber band around the rod and guide foot; then taking one "loop" and putting it thru the inside of the other "loop"; and pull tight. Worked. I have four marj
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Could you give us a web site where the motor can be bought.? We are curious about size; rpm; mounting; etc; etc. THANKS
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Many supplies here are in 2 wall mounted cabinets in a shop that is heated and has A/C. Checking on things the other day, I looked at 2 bottles ( 4 oz. ) of PG. They were purchased this past summer. Within several days the plastic caps were replaced with white "Testers" metal caps. About 1/3 of one bottle was used on a project. Now both bottles are solid gel. My wall
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Years ago I found some cloth tape; it came in several colors. I used it with no apparent problems. Early this tear I looked for it at a hardware store. The salesman said he remembered it but it was no longer stocked. Now on hand here is tape that is clear with strands of fiberglass encased throughout. It is made for strength and is used for packaging. There are 2 brands: - - - -
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There are 2 things I use for alignment - - - - - - I have an old piece of spinning rod. It is about 3 1/2 ft long.; about 1/4 inch at the large end. - - - I check it to be straight by rolling it - - - - - this I put through the guides - - -- - - then I stand and eyeball the rod, guides and this piece of rod. Any guide out of line usually shows up. I took
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Several times I mixed a color with Flex Coat (lite) and "painted" rods. Came out just fine.
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All those lubes mentioned above are probably good as any water resistant lube may be acceptable...... However I have always found it best to disassemble the whole roller. Then to clean with a quality degreaser; dry well. Then do a internal grease job. It seems even the small roller "bearing" can be coated with "crud"; and it will not be removed just by a squirt exter
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I had a similar problem some time ago. Since then I set epoxy up on a block of wood; then turn a hair dryer on it. I do this every time; even though my shop is heated in Winter' and cooled in Summer. It seems to keep the epoxy in good shape; and fluid. I do this first; and let the dryer run while I'm setting up rod dryer; and making other preparations. I find this step useful fo
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Have done many repairs and built a few rods. As a routine, before leaving the shop; a rod is wiped down with alcohol - - to get off any dirty fingerprints; etc.. Then a coat of "Johnsons" paste wax [ in yellow can ] is applied. An old floor wax, I think. Then the rod is "buffed" lightly with a clean cotton cloth - - - sort of to re-arrange the wax to a shine; not to
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