Anyone caught a fish with them? Any performance reviews?
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I hear you Mark. I had to settle for a titanium SIC tip. NO big deal really but will be great when they develop the tips further. Jim, great comparison shot!! The slenderness of the ring becomes more impressive as the guide sizes increase through the scale.
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Just got my first set of Torzite Ks.. very impressive. Anyone umming and ahhhing about getting a set, take the plunge!! You wont be disappointed.
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I quite like a little bit of football in my wraps. Too much though makes them look silly.
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Matagi's biggest in their new 2014 are 3.2 ID tube but only a 5 sized ring.
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Nigel, I too have terrible troubles over the Peel N Stick decals we are all using these days. I found that a mat finish spray (I think its called Krylon in the USA - not sue about the UK) works pretty well. Thin (ish) coats and use Tom's 180 degree rotation technique for the first 40-50 minutes and you should solve your problem. It have worked well for me. I never had this issue with waterslide
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Cant beat the MHX series for selection and versatility!! I love em!!
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Just used an old set of waterslides in gold (as I don't have any peel n sticks in gold) and can I just say a really miss the old decals!! For me, they are so much better to use then those bloody peel n sticks plus, the epoxy sails over the top beautifully. They are easy to align and with Micro Set and Micro Sol used, they edges are invisible! I wish we could get them again!
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40, 25, 16, 12, 12, 12 12 and 12 tip. I'd use titanium K's personally.
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Little vertical belt sander makes very short work of it. I finish off with a quick polish on a uni wheel mounted in my drill press.
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For what it is worth Mel, I don't particularly like the L frames. Too low for me.
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Hi Mel I have three 60-100lb popping rods 8-8'6' that I use for Kings and GTs. I have used Titanium K series on them all. Size 40,25,16, 12 and 5 x 10s with a 10 tip. The 100lb has a run of 12s to the tip. Perfect combination and super light for those long days with big poppers. Also, after all that hard work binding and finishing, I prefer to use titanium's as I know they wont corrode!! To me i
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Gents, I have the guys at Daiwa (Australia) telling me that their ultra heavy duty new Saltiga Dogfight rods feature a "Fuji SUS Offshore guide" which is apparently their strongest guide on the market. It looks to me like a re-naming (probably by Daiwa) of the standard MNSG guide. Anyone got any information on this mysterious new guide (which isn't on the Fuji Japan website by the way)
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John/Ernest, good advice there. I will definitely use tape on the first one. Thanks again.
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John/Ernest, good advice there. I will definitely use tape on the first one. Thanks again.
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Ernest, I'm with you there. I haven't much success with those feather weight arbors. The heavier duty cork ones seem to be better and I've never had issues with tape. Thanks to all for your advice. Much appreciated.
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Hi Guys, How are you installing these seats? Tape bushings or arbors? Thanks Chris
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I have done many raw blanks in Permagloss with great results. I apply it with a coffee filter paper and do two coats with an hours drying time between coats. If you use epoxy, you will be annoyed with the result and, the blank will become significantly heavier. Cheers Chris
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!!! Finally it happened to someone else. I have had terrible trouble with wavy epoxy over the Decal Connection "peel n sticks". The best result i had was with the matte fixative or clear spray laquer. This removed the wavyness and gave me a much better finish. All that sanding and mucking around will become very tedious. Use the fixative and I guarrantee you'll get
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I reckon it is just a gimmick.. its undertsandable on the old MN styled frames with their two legs at the rear but I see no reason for it on a single footer. The Japanese are always doing odd things to sell rods.
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My Chromaseal is in the bin.
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Try Xzoga Blanks. They are awesome.
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I use Carbon Fibre tubes for handle build ups and extending blanks. They work really well and are light and strong. The tubes I use are designed for use in RC model aircraft as the wing tubes for control cables etc. They also have the carbon fibre pattern which is great for split grips. They are available in all sorts of ID/OD combinations.
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Philip, The cutting will be easier if the wrap isn't heated. Heating it could make it rubbery and more difficult to pare back. The epoxy is probably still pretty green and will be easy to remove with a nice sharp blade.
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Ive had St Croix blank finish peel too. Extremely annoying.
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I never scuff and never have any issues. In a busy life with little kids running around, I sometimes don't get a chance to crecoat within 24-36 hours. Like Billy V, I've never had any iussues. I use Threadmaster and Bullards.
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You could pare them back with a blade and then refinish using the 20 minute hand rotation method (which I reckon is awesome). Iyt is worth a try. I don't think you will get enough off by sanding.
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Mine usually just pop back out after a day or so. I use the Matagi EVA which is ultra hard.
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Hi Stu, I am from Australia too and for our style of jigging, I would recommend blanks from the Xzoga range. I have the 12kg, 15kg, 20kg and 26kg models (all around 5'6") and they are superb. Ultra thin diameter and super strong.
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I would love to see this new finish!! Sounds awesome. I do hope it makes it into production.
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