Thanks Roger, I try sometimes to keep the thread at an angle by keeping the tray slightly back and left of dead center.
Forum: rodboard

Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Take a close look at the blotchy thread areas > under magnification. Now if you don't see those > minute gaps and spaces I mentioned above, it's > time to look at something else. > > ................... Thanks Tom, I will do that as soon as I start another application batch and if it reocc
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Thank you for the suggestions, I will on my next attempt to be sure to pack the threads more carefully. I always thought I was doing this from the beginning, but it appears I may not be packing tight enough. Is it still necessary to burnish after packing then? I use a power wrapper, but even after starting my thread, after a few winds, I stop and take my burnishing tool and pack the threads in
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On occasion I have had instances where after applying epoxy, to Gudebrod thread mostly used, The thread will look what appears to have bled through, causing color blotch's. It happens on Chestnut brown / Medium and light Greys or Goldenrod / and some darker colors as well. I can not for the life of me figure it out. I have tried to keep my hands very clean from impurities while touching the t
Forum: rodboard

I have refinished several bamboo rods using spar varnish clear gloss. As others have stated it takes a minimum of 4-6 coats to get a solid base established. I have reapplied after 2-4 hours of drying from the previous application.
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Thanks, I often wondered if my thread was not packed enough that there was to much of a gap. I put just enough to saturate the brush I use.
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Thank you Bill, I thought that that would be necessary to make up the difference.
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I have experienced on some of my rod builds after applying two or three coats of Color Lock II, that after the color preserver has cured or dryed, I get some areas of the thread that our not consistent with color, and it appears darker. The color of the blank is brown, and the thread I am using is Gudebrod A in Sandstone with a Candy apple trim. Is it possible that I am not saturating enough co
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Thanks Eric, correct me if I am wrong. What you are saying is you install the rear grip from the bottom of the blank and slide it upwards into place rather than sliding it down from the narrow end of the blank to the end of the butt. I am guessing that installing it in this manner won't have to much effect on reaming out the rear grip in a reverse taper. I am trying to picture the direction of
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Thank you Phil, I was just thinking about the shim, because I am so use to making my own tape bushings to fit and slide the reel seat over, I have never used a shim till now, it makes sense to fit it to the id of the reel seat first then glue it in, and then ream out the id of the shim inside the reel seat before glueing onto the blank. I built a nice spey rod some time ago, but forgot the order
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Building my first Switch Rod. My question is regarding assembly of the rear grip, reel seat, and fore grip to the butt section blank. It is of course a 4 pc. Is the order of assembly the rear grip reamed out first to slide down the blank to the end of the butt section and glued in first? Then 2nd, reel seat shim or bushings put in place where reel seat goes in front of rear grip? Then 3rd glue
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Thank you Mike for sharing. I have tried many epoxies, and realized alot of the problem is me. Applying epoxy is a practiced art it seems, and while I am getting better at the learning curve, I agree with you regarding viscosity. I like the application of the varnish better, but have always believed I would not get a glossy finish as I do with epoxys. I like using Pernagloss, and yes it sets
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I was curious how many like using spar varnish on there thread wraps, decals, or if you like using epoxy better. It seems that more coats are required to have a smooth finish with varnish. What is a good brand of spar varnish to go with? Is it a good choice over epoxy? Thanks Paul
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I have an old 8' fiberglass flyrod, that I would like to strip down completely. The reel seat, handle, guides, thread, have all been removed. The finish is in bad shape. I would like to refinish it. What is the best way to remove old finish, what kind of finish color, paint, varnish is used from manufacturers when they decide on a color, can anyone use a can of quality spray paint, if so what
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