Jim, A post should be germane to the subject at hand; it's not personal critism by anyone. Nice work though. RON.
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You can locate a local dealer through the West System Epoxy website; as well as obtain a lot of instructional ifo. RON.
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John, You just got two different answers from two of the best "modern guys"! You might get another 50 answers before the night's over... You might do a search above on "to spine, or not to spine". It's one of the hot topics for debate. As for me, they've pretty much convinced me to use the straightest axis and be done with it-- on any type of rod. I'm just not that go
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Hello, The varigated thread interest me; (as well as your metallics) especially now that Gudebrod has discontinued their line . I like the varigated thread but don't know if it was a big seller... Looking forward to trying your thread. I've heard many good things about it. Ron.
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TONY; YOU WILL FIND THE HANDLE IS THE SAME and the blades changes very quickly. If you do any other wood working, the general purpose blade is nice to have too. Point being, you don't have to keep buying the saw over again... Ron.
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Tony; I've used the "sharksaw" brand for years. The information Mark gave you is right on the money... One would think at 19tpi it would indeed have a coarse cut; however, it leaves a smooth cut. I would guess it has a lot to do with the way the teeth are ground and the fact that a pull stroke does not allow you to put much pressure on the cut. The big trick with it is to let the
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Yeah, a Rainshadow SWS597...transparent black with a slick butt... spiral wrap with a Penn GTi (left-handed model, of course)... BSTUG guides... metalic blue threads... I can see it now...
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ROGER; Batson Enterprises had some E-glass blanks as well that you might take a look at. They have a graphite/E-glass blend series that are a little more money, but sound interesting... Both in the boat rod length you are looking for. Ron.
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DAVID; i don't know anything about that particular rod so I can't help you there; but why can't you just measure the tip? If you now know what style tip you need why do you have to call over the place to find out what size tip it is? Seems a lot of time and trouble making it a lot harder than it really is... RON.
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David; Remove the old tip by attaching a large rubber band to it; the other end to a door knob, put some tension on it, then heat the tip section with a lighter and it should pop off. Clean excess glue around the tip of the rod and measure with a micrometer. Tips are measured in 64ths of an inch. Just a hunch, but the "tip +9" could very well be that the tip tube is a 9, which is
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Andy, Congratulations on your new Son! It is an absolutely wonderful thing, isn't it? I'm also looking forward to your new packaged CP. I'm sure it will prove to be worth all your efforts... Thank You. RON.
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Phil- I can't think of anything I can do about your situation. If you can think of anything I can do, or help out with, just let me know. My brother just moved to Yokosuka; I'll run it by him, see if he has any ideas. It is great of Mark Griffin to pick up the ball and run with it... But then, he's just that kind of guy... RON.
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MICHAEL: I don't recall, did Tim mention his trick with a hair dryer to kick-off the Diamondite? Heat each wrap with a hair dryer for about 10 seconds while it's turning... That seems to help if you are looking for speed. RON.
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MICHAEL; Just to clear up a few things; you don't need to apply a CP to activate Diamondite, therefore, you don't "need" it. However, using Diamondite without CP over regular nylon will turn your wrap black! Or, at least give you some some really black streaks. That, I believe, is why the literature says you have to use a CP with it. I didn't test it with NCP thread. I've tri
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Carrington; Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean CP won't mess with you every chance it gets! As one who also applies multiple coats (same reason), I would suggest that you might be applying the coats too close together; i.e., not allowing sufficient drying time between coats to allow entrained air to escape. An old trick an old nurse taught me (when she was teaching me how to give i
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DAVID; Don't overlook Dale Clemens' books either. A lot of the technology is out of date, but there are still many good ideas and information contained therein. I see that Mudhole now offers a reprinting; see their post below... Your local library also might have a copy. Good Luck, Ron.
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Ricky, Eric has the right link. I found it listed on the first page, middle right. I screwed up the name though, it's the "Crafty Cutter". Sorry about that... RON.
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Rickey, Dan Craft has a tool designed for this... It's called a "Swifty Cutter". He's on the left, check it out. Ron.
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KEVIN; My sentiments exactly... Thanks to all of you Kevin named for your continuing help.... The latest being Doc Ski.. And always Mike Barkley; where does he find the time! RON NIX
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Jeff; Another thread for you to look at is the Pacific Bay Metallic thread M100A-AZ "AZUL". I have no idea how they came up with that name, but according to my eyes, AZul is exactly the same as the Batson Blue Zirc guides... right down to the shine. RON.
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YES, THANKS STAN... Using the stylus is a great idea. I really like the control and size... RON.
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KEN: Try Diamondite Rod Finish; you may not have the same reaction to it since it is not an epoxy. It's really good stuff and nice to work with. The caveat is that you must use a color preservative under it, otherwise you'll end up with dark streaks throughout the finish. I've found most CP's work fine, just put on a flood coat. Good luck to you. RON.
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BILL; I'M JUST NOW getting into this conversation, but that's alright, Tom (as usual) has given you great advice. I've been using Canon cameras professionally and otherwise for 35 years. Wouldn't use anything else. (Don't want to start an argument with other photographers out there). Buy the body and add your own lens. The zoom that comes with the camera in the package is o.k., but it'
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TIM; If you are trying to match the blank, you might also want to try Pacific Bay Ruby Red. It's very similar in tone to Garnet #206, but it's "browner". I think it would be a better match to your mahogany blank. RON.
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GRANT; THAT WAS IN VOLUME 10, ISSUE 3 OF RODMAKER MAGAZINE. GOOD ARTICLE. HAPPY RETIREMENT! RON.
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A common theme is running through all of the above. All I can add is consistent and predictable results. RON.
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FRED; STRUBLE (GLEN STRUBLE MANUFACTURING CO.) MAKES A FEW NICE ONES, WITH RUBBER "O"-RING RETAINERS. LOOK AT THE FB-1,3,8,ETC.; ASK AT THE USUAL SUSPECTS ON THE LEFT. GO TO WWW.STRUBLEMFG.COM AS WELL. ALSO, I BELIEVE, BATSON ENT. MAKES ONE. THE NICE THING ABOUT THE RUBBER "O"-RING IS THAT IT'S LESS LIKELY TO SLIP OUT FROM WEAR OVER TIME; AS THE FRICTION FITS WILL,
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Bob, you could be right. I use a thread bobbin with a ceramic tube. I wouldn't think it would be contaminated, but who knows? I'll clean it. Tom, I looked at the wrap through a magnifying glass with a strong back light. The blank is translucent root beer brown. I can see the blank through those gaps that I do have. This is a stain, looks something like black mold, in a 3mm wide band all
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THANK you all for helping me solve this dilemma. Mark, (don't you ever sleep?) Yes, both brands-- mostly reds and browns. One of the things I changed was the thread path. Taped on two ceramic guides to insure clear, clean path. (A 12 and 10 from your clearance bin, really nice by the way.) Mike, Mick and Fred: Sound advice as always. You are right about my packing and wrapping job. F
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My test wraps of Diamondite finish are drying as we speak. I'll go into that on another thread. But I have a serious contamination problem. I made about thirty test wraps of Gudebrod and Pac Bay thread to use as a color bar. The wraps looked alright for this purpose. The trouble came when I applied the CP (Diamondite). I don't believe that's the problem. That just made it show up. Es
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