It's 'experimental,' so not really finished; just wanted to see what a trigger felt like on a fly grip. The answer? I like it...
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Pac Bay Channel lock seat with threaded adaptor
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Not completed yet, but wanted to get a picture up. Top two are maple burl and bottom is buckeye burl with Andy's exotic burl for the grip.
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Look at it this way - they're way cheaper to ship, and easier to wrap and finish. ==dave==
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The spiral wrap eliminates the torque effect of a line load (fish) on the guides, trying to pull normally upright guides (traditional casting rod) to the bottom. Not relevant to spine. ==dave==
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I'm in the market for a new camera - old one has been lost - when we get it I'll post a pic or two. ==dave==
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BV - that was what I thought of first, but didn't have one on hand, so used the Fuji ECSM instead. Plus, that seat has a very comfy (to me, at least) trigger. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to cut it back. It would be easy to simply cut the threads off, but might look even more interesting with some creative rotary tool use. Plus, like Keith says, the flat spot under the thumb is g
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Was wondering if anybody else had tried this (not much new under the sun...). I have a short 9wt fly rod (6 1/2 ft) that I thought would feel better while casting if it had a trigger grip. So, I put a Fuji exposed blank reel seat about four inches ahead of the 'normal' reel seat and cork in between. It does feel nice. Haven't decided if I should trim the trigger seat back a little bit, as the
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Emory – I too would like to commend you for your article and interaction in this forum. Couple of points – when you say the amount of energy required to move the tip of the rod (when comparing stiff vs soft) I think you’re actually referring to deflecting or bending the tip, as if the rod was clamped in a rod holder (or held tightly and still). This may lead to some of the confusion when
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Yes, it was an amazing event...what I find even more amazing now is that is the first time I can remember Billy V. spelling "the" correctly! ==dave==
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Even lamer, but easier to contruct is one built out of a 2X4 piece. If you have a forstner bit, drill one or two 1 1/4" holes roughly centered on the 4" side. Then rip the board in half, and you have one or two place to put cork rings in for drilling, with the wood held together on the drill press with a clamp. I could post a pic if you want... ==dave==
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Another option I've tried is Alconite stripper/tamer, then REC single foot recoils all the way out to the tip which is another alconite. I'm pleased with the result - very light weight, on a SCV 8 1/2 ft 6 wt. ==dave==
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I put together a St Croix 3S66MF2 as a fly rod using alconite guides and it casts a 9 wt fly line very well. I have also tried the AmTak AMSP784-2 which is a little stiffer, but works as well and is a very nice green color. ==dave==
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Don't know of any rules, per se. I usually use flannel because its soft and inexpensive. Also easier to embroider on...Fleece is nice too - higher "pile" for cushioning, but it's about 3 times the price per yard, and machine setup is slightly different. ==dave==
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Since I haven't yet put together one of TKs ball bearing finish mixers, I have become pretty good at not adding air bubbles during stirring. I had noticed before that the bulk of the air injected into my finish occurs when the syringe is emptied into the mixing container. This is a result of that little (in the syringe) bubble that is always there from the tip not being full when initially draw
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When I try opening the CCS Data from the Site main page nothing happens...is this a bad setting on my machine's part? What I'm curious about is numbers for an SCV 8"6' 5 or 6 wt, but would also gladly read any opinions or comparisons. ==dave==
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Speed of the wheel in RPM is only part of the equation - need to know what diameter wheel we're talking about. An 8" wheel at 3450 'moves' at about 7230 ft per minute, while at 1725 rpm its down to 3613 fpm, but a 6" wheel at 3450 is moving at 5419 fpm... (calculator available on line at ). I've read that to sharpen lathe tools you should have at least 4,000 fpm or else you're creati
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While it may seem (heck, it actually is) steep initially, it makes getting a good edge so easy I would recommend it - spend your time turning with sharp tools without any aggravation trying to get a good edge. I do not have any experience trying to freehand grind tools, as I purchased a grinder at the same time. So, even with no experience I was able to sharpen all my tools quickly, easily and
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Another thought - a higher frame spinning guide will increase the torque (already present in a conventionally wrapped baitcaster) over a lower fly guide. ==dave==
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One thing that's looked at is the line distance from the blank at its closest point between two adjacent guides. That's something you could use math to figure, given your equation of the curve and assuming (or plugging in a measured) guide ring inner surface height above the blank. On a spinning/fly/spiral rod (guides inside the curve) you could designate a maximum and on a "traditional&qu
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I would also agree with the smaller/lighter is better when it comes to guides and have demonstrated the difference to myself with side by side builds of the same blank with different guides. Jim, to answer your first question, I have two 3 wt rods, one with Fuji alconites (size 6) and the other with Amtak size 5, and there is a noticeable difference - the smaller/lighter guide rod is more respo
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Added this to the previous thread, but too late for any readers... Lou, Steve, Spencer - I'm glad to hear that there are other "closet" short rod (sts) people out there. I wasn't at all surprised about using a blank that's not specifically a fly blank - I understand that a rod "doesn't know what it is." What did surprise me was this blank CC'd at over a ten weight (more tha
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As far as I know, they're only available from REC components (the makers). ==dave==
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Lou, Steve, Spencer - I'm glad to hear that there are other "closet" short rod (sts) people out there. I wasn't at all surprised about using a blank that's not specifically a fly blank - I understand that a rod "doesn't know what it is." What did surprise me was this blank CC'd at over a ten weight (more than 88 pennies) yet works well with 8 or 9 wt fly line. It casts with
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I got to wondering about what was doable in the realm of shorter fly rods for heavier line weights - bass fishing in south GA was the impetus. I have really enjoyed fishing with smaller 3 and 4 weight rods because the length seems to help me not get hung up in the trees etc. On a whim I ran some 8wt line through one of my baitcasters (!) (didn't attach the reel...) and it seemed to cast it fine
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Depending on the rod and how much reaming may be in store for me, I will individually ream (or drill then ream) the rings to fit the rod (an inch or two above its final position), and then glue them up on a mandrel that has had a similar taper built into it with something like duct tape. This is especially handy with burl cork which is dense enough to be a pain to ream once formed into a grip.
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As long as we're killing sacred cows here...in addition to the spine I think there is way too much "witchcraft" concerning guide placement out there. Rich Forhan also wrote a very sensible article about this in RM, and it should be read right after the one TK cited above. ==dave==
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I keep getting "error code one" concerning creating thumbnails when attempting to upload a photo. After searching through other people's questions I'm still unable to get a 620x320 photo at 180 dpi to upload. What am I doing wrong? ==dave==
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I've noticed that my Delta's tailstock has a little wobble left-right when not tightened down. So if I want to have the two centers lined up, I need to hold it to the left and then tighten it. Haven't come up with any other work around for this... ==dave==
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