Great time was had by all. It was great to meet and great new and old friends. I never stop learning from fellow rod builders and folks in the industry. My heart felt thanks to Lamiglas for once again hosting this event and to all the Lamiglas employees. Building a fly rod blank was a great experience the Lamiglas employees help made it turn out great. And to the many others that came and
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Apply first coat of color preserver. Then use a hair dryer to completely dry the color preserver. Apply a second coat and use a hair dryer to completely dry it. Let it set over night and then apply your finish. Drying the color preserver completely is the key to getting maximum color using most all color preserver. Do not over heat the blank with the heat source. Hold your hand just in bac
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If you have some blank pieces of close to the same ID and OD of the fenwick- cut the fenwick rod in front of the reelseat. And then clean the inside of the fenwick and insert a spigot that closely matches the fenwick ID taper that is about 10 to 12 outside fenwick diameters long to bridge the cut, Then use a piece of rod blank that matches the fenwick OD over the butt end of the spigot that is
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Here is a technique I have use that works well for me. Use Rod Bond and a Spatula If you do not have the new 10 min rod bond from U40 use the regular rod bond. Prepare the surfaces ie, scotch brite (grey). If using regular U40 Rod Bond let it rest and thicken for a while after mixing as it makes it easier to work into a ramp. You can add color to the mixed Rod Bond to match the rod or dec
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It will give the cork a satin glossy look. Joe Kassuba
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See you there bob and Karen. Joe Kassuba
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The effect of a properly executed repair of a tip is added weight to the rod. It is like adding the weight of an excess guide on the tip section. So what it does is SLOW the action. IF this is acceptable then repair it using a good fitting sleeve. If not then go the other way and shorten the rod taking the increase in tip action FASTER. To help make the decision measure the tip before re
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Use a spatula and apply it as Jim suggests and it will fill the tunnel very well even on Bid guides. When you get used to doing it with A SPATULA IT IS EASY AND FAST. Let the PG thicken in a mixing cup a little before applying with the spatula and press it in as the rod turns applying from the foot toward the ring to fill the tunnels like epoxy. Works great. Either, PG and U-40 epoxy wi
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Use a good spatula and turn at 40 + rpm Joe Kassuba HIS Rod Shop
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Been building these for quite some time using cork arbors and forming them to the blank using rod bond and now that the new 10 min rod bond is out I use that and find it works very well. I use three arbors on most grips and two on shorter grips because as Emory points the vibration path is from the blank to the woven graphite tube and into the hand. So the arbors need to firmly as possible pus
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Best thing to do is: Remove the wraps. Clean with gray scotch brite pad and rewrap with another spool of thread or try the thread that you used on a scrap piece and see if it is contaminated. Also Alcohol (drug store) rubbing can have cantamination in it, Better to use 91% or denatured than 51%. Also your appliction tool could be contaminated, Clean it all and go for it again. Joe
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The reason the PG can technique works so well is the chemistry/physics of saturated solutions. In the can above the liquid saturated solution of PG is a vapor staturated solution of PG. As liquid is drawn off from below the liquid surfac more PG vaporizes to fill the volume above the liquid PG with a saturated solution and so it goes until the liquid PG is used up. No atmosphere (humidity) g
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Marty These small guide work very well. Just set them up like discribed in the Rodmaker article and then do a stress test to see if the rod is properly loaded for fighting the BIG ONE. Adjust and or add guides. The small guides are very lite and will enhance sensitivity allot for most all types of rods where they can be used. Joe
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Check out using a stainless steel spatula and eliminate the need for cleaning brushes. Spatulas are much more versitale, easier to clean, cost effective. I think Ralph will have some at the NC gathering. Joe
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Hello Capt Neil I am not able to attend NC gatthering - is it possible to have one put in the mail to me as I would surely like one for my collection? Joe Kassuba HIS Rod Shop hisrodshop@charter.net
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Hello Tom The article is very good. I have used a very similar technique for a long time. I think the beauty of the Rodmaker article is that is as good as another techique and is very simple. It gives a a very close to the final position for all the guides. After the intial layout of guides do a stress test and see if any of the guides need to be moved and then test cast the rod. These two
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Don't know of another way that is better than CCS. Works for all types of rods. It is a great tool for comparison and design rods. The information available in past issues of RodMaker and posted in this Phorums library and on the CCS site are pretty complete and useful. Joe
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Use REC recoil guides on many fresh water rods and find them to be great, Have many out in the field and not a problem and alot of very good reviews. The heaviest rods so far for them have been steelhead rods. Many bass rods and trout rods. Some on fly rods too. For Salt water rods and the vast majority of my freshwater rods I use mostly Forecast Zirconiums and H ring guides. Again not a
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Bruce Putting a screw into a metal cap will not help preserve PG. The can with an eyelet screw opening below the liquid surface works very well. There are two saturated solutions in the can of PG. One is the vapor and the other is the liquid PG. Of the ways to extend PG shelf life, I beleive the can is the best and it is readily accessible on the bench. Joe Kassuba
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Hello Marty Just put it on slow and thin. Just as Tom suggest. It works fine. I use a spatula but a brush will work to if you put in on slowly and let it "flow" of the brush. I find the best way to get a very low and even build epoxy that just covers the threads is to use two thin coats. And I have used three. I use LS Supreme but I have done the same with many other finishes
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U40 color preserver is a good color preserver- follow the instruction on the bottle. U40 Permagloss will give you the lightest and clearest finish of any finish. it will also be the toughest and longest lasting. If you want to use epoxy there are plenty of good light ones to choose from and one is the new U4 LS supreme. I have been testing it and find it to be very good. It is at least as
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Hello Tom In the library read the concept guide system primer by Tom Kirkman. Anyone that wants a good performing spinning rod should read this article and take it to heart. Where the butt guide goes is determined using this technique and the size of the ring is determined by the size of reel your using and the type of line/lines that will be used -stiffness of the line is a factor that needs
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Hello Paolo To remove the guide cut through the epoxy and threads on the guide foot using a dull blade. Peel off the portion of the threads that are cut and remove the guide. Get a hold of the thread and peel tje remaining thread off. To remove the remaining epoxy band using a little heat to just soften it a bit. Then using your dull blade or finger nail bread it off. Do the same for any ep
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Marty I have a bunch of these cans. Drop me and email. Joe Kassuba
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Clean the location on the rod with grey scotch brite and apply the decal with out touching it with your fingers. Let it dry for several hours and put a light coat of finish on it and let it cure for a couple of hours, Then put a coat of high build finish on it. Do not put thick coats of finish on. The high build will level out nicely by hand turning. Then turn it very slow until the finish h
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I suggest a 30 butt guiide for a 12 lb flourcarbon and 48mm is a large spool. The rod needs to be test casted and guides adjusted for best performance with the reel and line of choice. The 16 and 10 may work but a 16 and 12 may work better. Because of the line of choice. Your customer is probably right. Tom's book shows an easy and good initial method for concept guides which is also in t
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Reduce weight increases sensitivity. And recoils do not freeze up as easily as ceramic guides. More surface for water to cling to and freeze on a ceramic guide. Another performance factor for a winter rods. Joe Kassuba
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Hello Chris Forcast spg's are tough and very good values. They make great kids rods too. Only thing better is phenolic blanks for toughness and they are not longer made. I have some Phenolic blanks and covet them for kids trout rods. You might check with Ken Preston to see if he knows of a source for Phenolic blanks in your Stripper Country. Joe Kassuba
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Using a spatula (or a brush) and turning the rod at about 40+rpm make a "spare tire" (bead) of epoxy and run it to the foot of the guide wrap right where you want it. See my web page for some photos showing this technique under spatulas. Turning at a higher rpm helps reduce the effects of hand shaking. Most all rod manufactures do this and get very even finishes on their rods. HIS
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Hello Tim LS Supreme is intended as a 2 coat finish but can be used as a light one coat if you do as Mike suggests and practice and not get in a rush to get it on the rod dryer turning at 18 rpm. Because LS Supreme is a lite epoxy a thinner coat is used. All epoxies will football when too thick a coat is applied. Single coat epoxies are designed to permit a thicker coat. For either a thin
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