Dont forget the perfection casting gimbal.
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I love the cb batson blanks over the ip's the action is just right for most salty applications.
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Here's a home made craddeling tool that will work for your problem. Use a piece of 1 - 1 1/2" diameter by 3" long scrap piece of blank(you can use a piece of 1" dowel as well). Make sure one end is cut square. Now glue or tape on 3 or 4 popcicle stix evenly spaced around the diameter of the scrap blank piece. Only glue and tape about 1" of the sicks on the piece of blank o
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I cant visualize foam green.
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They work best with braid and modern surf spin reels, and could also be used as a duel rung rod (conventional as well) I used them for the claim that they prevent high speed crack-offs, or wind knots ( braid is notorios for this). Fuji has guide spacing charts for 12 plus foot rods available, (daiwas ballistic surf rods are set up this way ) ,Shorter surf rods like plug rods are newly bei
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Whats the best solvent for suspending my brushes in? I have been using acetone but seems harsh and it evaporates away.
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Like chuck said no furniture polish any where around the rod building activities. I remember those fools i worked with who rigged the billfish lures , used pledge to put the skirts on the heads. Then they would come into the rod room and contaminate all the rods with thier silicon poisoned fingers.
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Yea, fasten it down as secure as you can and as true as you can . A crooked joint on my renzetti about drove me nuts untill i finaly fixed it.
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Great read and response Ellis. I feel the blank companies do a good job of designing and nameing blanks in relation to its action and purpose, but i believe by no means does a blank have any limitations on how it should be used because of it's designated purpose. For example you mentioned a salmon blank making good use in the surf. I also feel a cranck bait blank has a load-up and feel l
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Built an inshore spinner out of a batson cb70mh, and have to say im starting to favor the slower action versus a standard spinning or popping blank for saltwater use. I feel it heaves larger baits and lures farther with ease, provides better shock absorbsion for those hard strikes and runs, and overall gives me a better sence of durability, but ,dont know if the later is true.
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Not only does gravity take over but a windy day will have a huge efect on p.p
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I personally never built anything under 6' with a uni or storabutt, but im sure its been done alot with xh;s and above. 14"s seems like alot of blank to remove,but on a standup blank of that power, theres virtually no flex that far up a 5'6" blank and i assume there is plenty wall strength in that erea. I could be wrong though. Try contacting Leon at calstar.
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Is 2 or 3 coats of this stuff durable as a top coat on an old white fiberglass blank. Do not want to use rod finish due to yellowing later on. Also, how is krylon crystal clear over white? It says non yellowing finish anyone now for sure.
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Besides wire line fishing, a swivel top is a must if the line coming off the tips of the outrigger rods are at such an angle to were they are chaffing the side frames of the standard roller tips.
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american tackle and pac bay make guides like u described , not sure what brand all star uses . I know The Rod Room in Orange beach, AL has all amtack guides at 50% off.
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epoxying over foam works . do like Russ says and wrap with thread and seal with color preserver to soak into the foam and keep bubbles from rising up through the finish. Blue water rods with the leather wrap grips over eva use this method.
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Thanx all for the info ,I might try flocking over the seat.
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has anyone used 4 graphite arbors sandwiched together for a seat to tape or wrap a reel on? Should I wrap over with thread or just coat with finish and go? If you havent figured , Im realy going for light weight and sensitivity. Also, does anyone no were to get carbon wrap tape if you will ?
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I figured it would do. Man, for years I would have to sand the butts down good enough to get pc7 inbetween the surfaces and when the stuff got too stiff over time we would trash it. What a waste.
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I used an ncp green to only lightly contrast a Notre Dame themed rod of primarily dk. blu and gold. Turned out awsome for the owner that i even added the single green tic.
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For years was taught and have been using pc-7, but kardol sure would be alot easier and cheaper. So, assuming I properly sanded and preped surfaces, has anyone had any failure with kardol or rod bond ,when used on ub2 and ub4 ferrules?
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I personally like the rainshadow forcast e-glass rods also, tuff as nails straight and has nice paint job.
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I can see any moisture on thread constricting after it dries causing some softning and grooving.
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It's still boggling me becouse i pulled the plastic sleeve of the fresh spool of thread and went to town. I'm carfull not to have hands dirty or have contminants like pledge or oils around. I'm starting to wonder about the blank surface beneth the thread prior to wrapping, other people handling could have contaminated it. Or could the plastic sheath the spool came in have so
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The rod finish didn't even coat most of the underwrap ! The finish just moved around in a marbling fashion like the thread was contaminated with silicon or somthing ! It's a brand new spool of red. Just used a spool of blu with no problems Whats happening here ?
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Why is one brand thick,milky, and white , while another brand is thin and clear? Is it possible to make a batch myself (elmers glue) ? I ran out and need to get a rod finished before the wrap might loosen up. Thanks for any info
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I found them at autozone , under .50 apeice
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