sorry to be off topic, but dave... are you from michigan originally?
Forum: rodboard

Yeah, I got twilli's... maybe I'll go without rollers and see if I like them, I'll take a look at the blanks you mentioned. I'm going to run my wire on daiwa saltists. Thanks for all the recommendations and help! Steve
Forum: rodboard

I've only made freshwater rods, fly rods, and saltwater spinning rods so far. I need a couple wireline dipsy rods for myself, and instead of buying some off the shelf, i've decided to build my own. I do find myself kind of lost when it comes to roller guides and tips... I hear some of the issues with the cheaper off the shelf rods is the wire jumping off the roller and getting pinched, I'd rat
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Well, when all else fails, build two rods... LOL. I'll be ordering the SWT and the SB 3 pc's and just take them both.... can never have too many. my guess is they will be a nice smallie rod too for up here in Michigan.
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I'd be flying in, so I'd like a 3-4pc rod that I can carry on. i'm not stuck on any length, i'm looking for some guidance here... i've used 6'6"-7'6" rods which success. I'm talking about 12lb test, with floro leader. size 1/0 bait hook. last year we got into some really big flags in late september which was surprising, but i'd say more than likely 2-3 lb fish on average. I'd like
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Looking to build a yellowtail snapper travel rod for myself. I've fished for them several times off of the Florida Keys, but would like to bring my own gear next time and maybe rent a boat rather than use a charter/head boat. Does anyone have a recommendation for a sandball/freelining travel rod that will fit the bill? I'm not too familiar with travel rod blanks. Thanks, Steve
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i'd venture a guess that at least 90% of the bottles that finish and whatnot come in are LDPE or derivatives.... if no silicone or other lubricant/sealant/coating is on it, and its cleaned well, i would bet it would work fine.
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if it is as reads... its a SCV 6'6" Medium Light Fast action spinning blank... should be very light, very fast..... I'm not so sure it is that, as I am not too sure when/if they were made in that color.... the ones i've seen are a pearlescent brown. kinda sounds like a SCIV, but they might have made an SCV in that color at one time, i know they've been changing the colors some lately.
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they were decent action and all that, pain to thread, but with trolling ones that i used you rarely have to worry about re-lining on the boat (this is freshwater bigwater trolling). big problem was with spiny water fleas.... would clog em all up. what a pain in the arse. I know some folks that still use em, but when the spiny fleas are around, they are a pain sometimes.
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I believe since its past 60 days, the ability to file a fraudulent claim on the CC is gone. I could be mistaken, but I believe there is a 60 day allowance. Good luck! I hope you get your blanks plus some sort of "make things right" bonus as the entire scenario sounds pretty sketchy.
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Let me tell ya, the Tonka Queen I have is one of the finer casting rods for my fly fishing stroke out of all the bamboo rods I have (some pretty high end). Plus it was my grandfather's rod that I learned on, so for posterity reasons alone its nice to have around. The only thing that I wish was a bit better was the hardware, but that can be changed if you are in the mood to do it. I am lucky en
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i've basically made a large arrow cutting saw out of a dremel and a cone of HDPE.
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take the handle off one of the throwaway arts and craft brushes..... build it up (I ever so elegantly used duct tape) just make sure it stays round. insert other end into female ferrule and oila! you got yourself an adapter for tip pieces. That being said, I usually do the whole rod at once, but I am in an apt now waiting until my new house is ready so the last couple have been pc by pc so I had
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andy, i do have to say i love your product. the first rod i built with it i had some issues. I attributed it to 1) first time using the product and acting a bit different than what I was used to.... and 2) the rod was sitting for a while in my hobby room before finishing and i suspect some super fine dust got on it that I didn't see... resulting in some frustration (though the end product turned
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i too, like mike barkley, love the aero comfort grips... have a couple personal walleye rods with em, and just got done with a U/L (albeit much longer than we are talking about here) with one that is really, really comfortable.
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contact 3m..... they will help ya out finding one and they are probably the biggest adhesive company i know. they make all kinds of things for different bonding applications, even epdm to steel.
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mike, i got some nice stuff from those folks as well. i'm in the midst of a move so I haven't been able to turn any yet, but it looks fantastic.
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I too have bought from them in the past and have been more than pleased... i've also received "samples" of other woods in some orders which was a very nice surprise. Was a VERY pleasant person to deal with.
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i would imagine the failure that is in that picture you linked to was caused more likely from fatigue of bending the guide back and forth than a fishing situation, but thats just a guess from me.
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i got a 9' 7 wt FLO+ blank wrapped up and i do gotta say that it is light, crisp, fast, and fishes well. i got it for much cheaper than they even go for now, so I really consider what I paid for it a bargain. (note: FLO+ are NOT flat finish..... they have a gloss black finish). straight as an arrow too, which was nice to see.
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it probably just got cold. do as was said earlier and you won't have a problem.
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what about getting an SLT blank? depending on what model, i may know where to get one.
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i do have to say that the sc5s have a relatively fragile finish. ISO alcohol will also take off the finish (though you can wipe a little and get away with it without harm). I haven't had to do a repair yet on one, so i haven't run into the same problem as you but hopefully someone can suggest something to at least somewhat correct the problem.
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if you are in a macro mode on the camera, usually you have to be pretty darn close to the target for it to focus (thats what macro mode is all about... ability to focus in super tight to get VERY high detail). I know on my canons usually I have to be within a couple inches up to about 2 ft if I remember correctly. I don't know about all digital cameras, but the canons allow you to manually focus
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also, make sure not to touch the sticky side with your fingers or you will get a fingerprint showing through... i'm sure you're aware of that already, but its something. I also cut the corners off of it and kind of bevel the edges a bit and it seems to help keep the corners stuck down when you epoxy over it.
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if i'm thinking about the same seats as I have, if of the same diameter they are interchangeable. they have a little different "feel", as I believe the fuji is a little "tighter" to turn but nothing that effects function or anything like that.... same thread pitch as far as i can tell or so dang close it doesn't matter at all.
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I am by no means a high volume builder, but I would be interested (though cannot positively say I can attend as my main work requires a lot of travel). I would also see if a friend of mine who is a rather high volume custom builder would be interested. Steve
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Unfortunately it seems like st. croix solid carbon ice blanks are either on their way out or the product line is being trimmed down. I tried to place an order for some ML and UL blanks, but only the set of UL blanks came and my distributor said that ML are no longer available...... That stinks, as I liked the ML much more for perching, as did many people around here (especially if you are fishing
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that isn't whats called a fish-eye (as far as myself anyways). fish-eyes are referring to the "oil slick" looking things that come up to the surface due to usually contamination.... kind of like looking at a parking lot after a little rain where someone had a bit of a gasoline or oil leak... kind of a wavy oil slick appearance. it does sound like maybe some air was trapped under the
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i was wondering if the gel is paste-ish (not a word but you will get my point) in order to complete epoxy ramps real quickly and easily.... does anyone have any experience with how many coats it will need to be able to do a nice ramp to say a size 17 reel seat? i can't wait to try it, i'll put in an order soon as I'm working my way through the last batch of other stuff i have (and haven't had
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