David Teague Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > you don't think the c clamp idea would put too > much stress on the motor by it turning at such a > low speed for extended periods? even though > temporary? The motor on my renzetti would get pretty hot turning at slow speed for 2 hours. Not sure it would survive that long
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I keep a brush suspended in DNA . Keeps it fresh and clean for multiple rods. I use a baby food size jar with a hole in the middle just large enough to allow the brush to sit 1/2 way into the bottle. That way the solids settle to the bottom but the brush stays out of the muck.
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You bet! I do it all the time
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Mudhole has purple EVA. IIRC a few years ago I found some purple Hypalon but cant remember where.
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Set it up so its comfortable in the fighting position. Are you using a fighting belt? Shoulder harness? Take this into consideration. Hold the blank the way its best for you and have someone hold the tip and load it up. This will give you reel seat position and you can determine how long a fore grip you want. Pulling on other rods will give you an idea of seat/grip lengths but the real deal is fo
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Im with Billy, gimbal last
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I have done several recently and found that the most challenging part was reapplying glue stick to the thread without tugging on the thread I already had in place. I was using Elmers extra strength glue stick and while it held the thread down well you just could not coat 3-4 feet and have it stay tacky long enough do do a good length of freeform. Other than that its a cool technique 1 more tric
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I would go for oversleeving. Oversleeve from where the wraps will begin on the tip wrap and down to the end wraps on the 1st guide. Permagloss the sleeve rewrap the tip and 1st guide and epoxy finish the wraps to the edges of the sleeve. Depending on the wall thickness of the oversleeve it might not look too bulky and the wrap finish coats may bring the diameters pretty close.
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It sounds as though you are working right out of the bottle. I would just pour off what I need into a small cup and immediately cap the bottle. Leaving it open to the air/humidity while coating a rod will only accelerate the cure process.
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Glen Hendricks Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey you can go to Fenwicks web site and ask them > about it sometimes the obvious escapes me!!!!
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There are none Tom. Its a brown/chocolate blank 6' heavy fresh or ML saltwater would be my guess. There was just "Fenwick 760" hand lettered on the blank
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Doing a rebuild and need blank specs for a label. Line class would do it thanks
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or...tie off wrap on the tip end of the dec wrap is the same color as the base of your other guide wraps then wrap the guide on with the same color or whatever color would be the 1st guide wrap
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I need to read for comprehension sometimes. I think I follow you now. When I do a dec. wrap under where a guide is going I do an underwrap and make sure that I end the underwrap with about a 1/8" of whatever color my guide underwraps are. Then I wrap the 2nd and 3rd wraps like the other guides. This way the guide end is finished like all the other guide wraps. If I was only doing a single or
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it would be easy if you were doing the underwrap that way. If you are doing the top wrap I would play around with the spacing so you have an even end point on each guide foot. One part of teh wrap is going to end up at teh base of the foot and the other part is going to end up off the other side of the guide foot. Did that make any sense?
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Well.... I wish them the best but, now that it seems as though rodbuilding thread might be a slightly larger percentage of their biz, maybe QC will be a bit better
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Closest thing off teh shelf would be a spey blank (fly rod) 12' to possibly 14'
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Try a hydraulic supply shop. They should have quite a selection of o-rings
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I just scoop it out with popsicle sticks and eyeball it
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Is that a shadow on the inside of the ring or an insert?
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In high humidity it kicks quicker. That and if you plan on using it to build up an epoxy like finish, thicker-more depth, it will take many coats and be a bit tougher to get a level finish. you may find at some point you want to sand the waves out.
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Penn used white blanks for a time.
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I have a Green Bay themed rod to do for a customer. Question is....what thread colors finish out to close too, or exact, of the packers colors. Additionally what spray bomb brand/color comes closest to the yellow and green, customer insists on a painted blank and does not want black. Thanks....I'd like to avoid buying 10 cans of paint to get a close match if thats possible.
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I would like to think it means something along the lines of "blank canvas" to us rodbuilders.
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I put a set on one of my SW rods about a year ago, I think they are Bastons....don't remember at this point . 15-30 lb class. They are holding up well, no corrosion whatsoever, although I do wash my gear immediately after each trip. Rings are holding up well.
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I acquired several older Fenwick blanks and am trying to id the specs for each blank. 1. Fenwick graphite matrix MSP721F 2. Fenwick Fenglass (brown) SH964F 3. Fenwick Fenglass (honey) SP845F Thanks all
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I have not tried it but have heard that some will dip the stripped blanks into a pvc tube filled with spar varnish. Then hang to dry. Any one tried this method?
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How about a brown reg nylon thread without CP . Do few test colors of brown, lighter shades than the blank, and the wraps can disappear into the blank. Plain but classy.
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Permagloss is the stuff I use on glass/graphite rods. Clean up the blank well. I would avoid any serious sanding particularly on a graphite blank but rather prefer to clean off any thread finish at the guide stripping stage then scotchbrite the blank. I use a brush to apply permagloss. Some use a paper coffee filter. Some use a finger cut off a latex glove, poke the tip through the glove, pour pe
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I get to travel a lot for my fishing as do some of my customers. In these cases I am building more 2, 3 & 4 piece rods just so we can dodge the money grubbing airlines extra charges. No one has complained about the ferrules or performance issues. This works fine for lighter outfits and the fly rods. The folks that stay home and fish local or hop on teh long range boats still want the 1 piece
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