Same as previous, but the light was just right on this one and really brought out the contrast
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Black and NCP base wrap Candy apple red on top with no CP
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spalted poplar, finished with TM lite
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Black and metallic silver base with nylon black on top
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pine bark and maple, finished with PG, decals added, and final coats of threadmaster
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PG coats, followed by decal and threadmaster
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a practice wrap more subdued than what I thought it would be, but still a very neat effect. thanks to the RM and the contributing authors
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if you can, when he brings it in - reverse the top half of the rod to put the guides on top and let him cast it like that. Perhaps that will be enough to show him that the spiral is not the issue and you won't have to re-wrap the rod. I'm not familiar with puici bobber stops and couldn't find any information about them on the internets, but I'd say changing the bobber stop will be the easis
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i think its pretty much been covered that its very individual. at one time, I didn't feel comfortable charging a certain amount for a rod. now I can charge twice that and know that they customer is getting his money's worth, and maybe a little extra
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I always use NCP thread or CP on the base wraps. when doing the overwrap, I don't always use CP, depending on the outcome I'm looking for. but, in general, no, using CP will not ruin the wrap
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ditto on swampland. price and shipping are both reasonable
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distance from the spool the size of the choker/running guides should be the smallest that will get the job done. If you will be using slip bobbers with stops, you may need as large as 5s or 6s to pass the bobber stop. If not, then you can probably go as small as you like as you'll only need to pass the line, no additional knots, etc.
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i use a dubbing needle like you would use to tie flies, rather than a spatula. the smaller size allows me more control when finishing the small guides
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I use the lamar wood turning mandrels that have locking rings as noted above to hold in place, if needed. however, i find with cork, you don't need that much pressure to shape and sand and they'll hold in place just fine if the fit between the mandrel and cetner bore is not too loose
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practice on a scrap peice with both variations and see what you like best
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i guess they gremlins got you b/c I wasn't working on a rod last night, lol
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you need to let the permagloss cure longer - I usually give it a week
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i've got a batson rx 7, 7wt 8'6" that I built for smallie fishing. its more of a moderate action though, but I like it as it works for me and the flies that I throw
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Marc - what kinda specifications is he looking for? perhaps somebody can suggest a blank that will fit his needs, even if its not labeled a musky blank
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won't be a problem. if its been more than a day or two since you did the first coat, you might want to scuff it a bit before the second coat
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I don't know if I'd put one every inch, but you certainly could. generally what I do is put one at 20", for times when I don't carry a ruler. but its much easier to measure when I do ahve a ruler
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Batson BFNG guides - several sponsors carry them
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I do exactly like raymond noted. also, as tom noted, after i heat the wrap, I let it site for about an hour, or longer, before removing the sacrificial
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touch the thread as little as possible
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andy, you got it! less is better, but if it feels bad, whats the point. find what feels good, looks good and works for you and run with it
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