I have never seen an Alconite Guide fail. I do believe they are the best value for money guide on the market today. That is for actual fishing applications. Marketing has convinced many people that SIC guides at their over inflated price are better. It is far more likely a blank will be damaged rather than a single Alconite guide. I always try to steer my customers to Alconite. I ha
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Static guide placement for "load" is the best way to go for sure. For casting distance/accuracy, you might need a different system. Paul.
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Static guide placement for "load" is the best way to go for sure. For casting distance/accuracy, you might need a different system. Paul.
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You are building a fly rod. ! Strippers can be alcanite, no problems. You might have 3 on this build. No effect to the lower section of the rod. The rest of your rod is built with snake guides. Nothing changes. I don't see the problem of your question. Paul.
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I am very happy with "Fex Coat" for lite applications. To get minimum build up of resin, let your dryer stop with guides up and wick any excess resin from the bottom of you wraps. Very effective for ultra thin epoxy. In my opinion, epoxy should never be thinned with anything at all. Paul.
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Why do you have sag. ? Are you applying too much epoxy. ? Or are you trying to get the very thinnest saturation.?? Paul.
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Hi Steve. I have gone back quite a few years with my FUJI catalogues. I cannot find a mention of a graphite frame. Yours. Paul.
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Hi Tom. I do believe you can go to the Alvey Reel site and get build info. Paul,
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Hi Vani. The Australian Rod Crafter, was published by, Modern Fishing Publication. National Advertising Manager, (per inside cover) (02) 93536666. There is an up to date DVD, available, from Frogleys Offshore. Hope this helps. Paul.
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I would use automotive, touch up spray cans. There are literally thousands of colours available and you can have pearl or glitter added as you wish. Be sure to ask for the added plasticiser, so the paint will handle the constant flex of the rod. Between 3 and 5 coats, lightly applied may be required. A very light wet and dry sand
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No problems at all, Jason. Great to meet with you again. You are welcome anytime. Ian and I made a bit of a dent in the beers you brought with you. Paul.
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Yes Ken, I am hoping the female section is undamaged. If that is the case, your suggestion is true. A fair bit of fiddling, with tapers, should result in a useable rod, that still looks good. Paul.
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Hi Jason, I would like to see the section you are talking about. You are welcome to visit. I have heaps of bits and pieces which may help you. But I would need the sections here to see what may be done. Paul.
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Hi Jason. The first question I will ask is. Have you got the broken off section of the blank. If you have I may be able to help you. Paul.
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Try it. If it is still good in 10 years then it is worth using. Paul.
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I have totally given up on SAGE. The company does not answer my emails at all. Pity. Because I think they are good blanks and also, in our state they are very popular. But why bother with people who will not talk to you. Paul.
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Metho, Wash the brush, dry it. End of story. I too found using acetone was not good for the brushes. Paul.
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Tom and Roger are both correct. If you really want to get into this idea of altering blanks. Try dummy builds, where ALL the components are taped into place, then try casting or loading the blank as the customer requires. This is pretty boring stuff and can eat up a lot of time, so you need to know your customer is going to p
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The only time I have known of wraps being too tight, was on the older, thin walled fibreglass blanks of many years ago. You could compress these blanks by wrapping too tightly. But you knew if you did that because the guide would not move at all for alighnment. Really, I think it comes down to practice and becoming familiar with the feel of your thread tension.
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Great stuff as always from you guys. Even with the lousy exchange rate at the moment, these deals are really good value in Australia. Thanks. Paul.
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I would go with PitPaste, as a ready made filler. My mate, Russ Pollack, sent me a sample some time ago and I am pretty impressed with the product. Thanks Russ. Paul.
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Dying cork is no problem at all. Any good quality paint supplier will help you. The tints do not penetrate very deeply, so you will need to seal the cork afterward. Cork seal, is good. Or Bees wax if you have a lathe and can really work with the wax. Great colours
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Great site. No problem registering. Cannot access anything at all once logged in. Cannot find PROFILE to fill out. Might be me. I am the worlds worst computer person. Paul.
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My answer to this question, when I have been asked to take the gloss off a rod, is to use 00 steel wool. Metho or turps as a lubricant. Works very well. Cheap and quick. I would never add any thing to a resin. There are enough problems to deal with on the resin subject, without adding more.
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Never had the problem. Sounds like poor work practice to me. Just my opinion. Paul.
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FUJI..................The best. End of story. Paul. I expect to get thrashed for my comment . Paul.
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I have a build for 8# fly blanks. Just for spinning rods. Designed for Cobra style lures, which are very popular here in Tas. I make sure the customer is fully aware, of the difference of this build. I offer no warranty at all, because the blank is not used for it's designed purpose. To date I have never had one come back in 38 years.
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I have a build for 8# fly blanks. Just for spinning rods. Designed for Cobra style lures, which are very popular here in Tas. I make sure the customer is fully aware, of the difference of this build. I offer no warranty at all, because the blank is not used for it's designed purpose. To date I have never had one come back in 38 years.
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Here is the link you need. C D blanks are my personal favourite. I think you will be pleased with whatever you choose. Paul.
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Sounds like too much of an alteration to me. A couple of inches on either end of a blank is acceptable to the customer requirements. But at 12 inches, I think you are looking at a different blank. Paul
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