Mike- The different length feet on double foot guides is exactly what I am wrestling with. Using 3-5 wraps before th foot of each guide consistently, they proportions still look 'off' to me. At this point, I am not going to worry about it- time fussing is less time fishing. Dennis
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Tom - Respectfully, I did try searching with the forum search option and there were only 4 posts, all within the last 2 weeks. After some digging, using the site option for google I found more. site:rodbuilding.org UV cured Thank you for your advice on UV finishes. Dennis
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What are the UV cured resins that OEM's use? Anyone know a trade name or source? I was looking at the UV cured 3D printer resin that I have and it occured to me that it might be the same stuff. From a MSDS on the stuff- "Substance Identity CAS No. Approx. Weight (%) Urethane Acrylate 877072-28-1 30~55 Acrylic Monomer 64401-02-1 30~55 Photo
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Hi all - I have tried searching the forums without sucess- Is there a rule of thumb or some guidance on how long to make the guide wrap length? I am looking for the aesthetic proportion of how long to make my wraps past the guide foot. I realize this is a bit subjective and depandant on guide type and style, but I just dont feel like I am getting it right. I am rebuilding some old
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First attempt at building a drum dryer. Construction of 1/2" emt, melamine wheels and assorted lumber.
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i am getting the core of the metallic thread showing through the thread and cant seem to burnish the main or metallic tread down.
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the different generic boat building stuff should work out fine too, as long as its clear. i have had good luck with progressive epoxy's basic no blush. its water clear and does not blush. the owner is a very helpful and knowledgeable professional. google progressive epoxy. the website is a bit goofy, but his products are great. he has the tints, fillers and all the other goodies. t
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well, i made an attempt to fabricate a drum dryer. here are the results. construction notes: i built the dryer around a pair of bearings i had on hand. ID dictated the use of 1/2" EMT. i used 3/4" melamine scraps for the wheels. i laid the notches out around a hex pattern that i laid out with a compass. each wheel can hold 12 blank sections. i did it this way to have - 3 1.5&q
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anyone have pictures of a SIMPLE drum dryer? not many in the pics list. i am thinking of making a 2-3 rod dryer, so i would have 4-6 sections. dennis
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thanks all! i think the next rods will look better trying out your suggestions. i may try to make a roller support instead of a felt lined Vblock too. dennis
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greetings all- when setting up a drying motor and the steady rest for the 'other' end, how do you set the height of the other end? should the centerline of the blank be level or do you set it so the top of the blank is level? i am noticing that my wrap finish is a little bit barrel shaped (too much finish?) and that its heavier on the thinner end of the wrap. i am using american tack
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scott- i am a rank amatuer, end user really, so ymmv.. your customer's his style of fishing sounds similar to what we do on lower lake michigan for fall run salmon. did you say that the customer wants this as a spinning rod for salmon with a 3500 series spinning reel? that reel actually sounds a bit small for salmon with a med-heavy rod. btw- where is he fishing? there is a big differen
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i am intrigued by this development - i am thinking of using permagloss on my next build. but i am still mystified on the whole screw eye thing- what are you accomplishing with the screw eye and hole in the cap? what is the gasket in the original cap? and what is this business about keeping it upside down? i gather its to keep the surface that is exposed to air in the bottom so when you t
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Dave is still in business and doing well as usual. His website/provider was having trouble. I spokle to him this week about a blank and such. Call or send him an email. dennis
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i am a rank amateur. i had the same problem with lumps and waviness over the factory decal so i will try to answer the question posted- the recommendation i got was to use a SHARP razor blade, and holding it at 90 deg to the finish, carefully scrape longitudinally along the high spots to level them off. turn the rod frequently between strokes. put a wrap or two of masking tape at the limits
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this rod is not on sage's website. iirc, the rod was marked "SP" under the sage name. the green color was through the blank- it was translucent. the guides looked like the pictures i have seen of the american tackle titanium nanolite titan guides. gray frames, with the bridge and black inserts. the wraps were a green thread that almost disappeared into the blank. the tip looked
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When did Sage start making spinning rods again? I remember that they used to then got out of it. Anyone else seen any of these new rods? I was at the local fly shop for a fly tying class- and on the rack was a shiny green rod that was not there before. Model 196, 1 Power 9'6", 4-10#, 1/16-1/2 oz. 2 pc. It was a very handsome rod! It was very well made and i was absolutely taken b
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greetings all- i have decided that my next rod building adventure will be a fly rod. i have never fly fished and want to try my hand at it. rod hopefully be used on lake michigan tributaries for salmon and steelhead. so far i have decided on the following - 7/8 weight rod snake guides (2 footed) 9-10' in length, 2-3 piece (i am leaning towards a forecast rx6 blank) simple graphite reel
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belated turkey day to all and happy digestions. i used some of the quite time today to work on my rod project. my blank is a matte gray rainshadow. i used garnet thread without color preserver and steel blue mettalic for trim bands. i did a couple as nail nots, but was not happy with the way they came out. then i did the rest as 3 wraps of mettalic a la ray adams writeup. i liked the results
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i had some of these motors i got from sciplus - they are local to my. the shaft has a strange thread- i am pretty sure its legt hand, either M4 or 6/32. anyone know what it is? dennis
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wow! thanks for all the good info. guide feet- i am using Forecast pre-ground guides. I touched them up to blend them a little better. i don't think its the guide feet that are my problem. to put what i was saying another way, the guides have a 3D axis, and trying to get them in the proper orientation is the hard part. you can gt the circle of the insert to be in line with its neighbors, but
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greetings all- i have finished wrapping my guides. thanks to all who helped and forwarded me info. my wraps are snug and it takes a bit of effort to scooch them about- so i think i am good there. now i am stuck aligning the guides to be straight. originally, i marked the spine in a few spots along the length of the blank with a silver pencil between every other guide. that mark has diap
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i have been intrigued by the forhan wrap- i don;t get the instructions yet. its probably that whole FOLOWING the directions thing. has anyone ever videod the proper technique to post to the pics site? i would request that and would be very grateful if anyone did. dennis
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i uploaded some pictures of my thread stand and guide wraps. there are a couple of things that are still bugging me. 1. the threads pulled under the main wraps won't go flat. these are the tag ends of the main and trim wrap. i did burnish some, but how do you flatten the tag end? 2. my metallic thread seems to be pulling apart! i used the method that ray adams emailed to me to m
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cliff- i don;t have a screw eye gizmo in my setup- a simple post to hold the spools at about the height of my rod supported in the stands. rolls off the top of the spool and right to the blank. thread is about level with the spool and the blank. i got the picture thing figured out, now i have to take some pics. the only thing that the metallic thread pases from/over is the spool to the blank.
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