Wonder, what are you mixing it in? You're not melting or dissolving the material of whatever you're using for a cup are you?
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Will & Russ- Thanks very much. That was exactly the part I just couldn't get into my thick head. I believe I remember something about the least number to get the job done, Also remember to follow the curve without flat spots or something to that effect. What I couldn't grasp was; A string through 2 contacts, goes flat (straight). Simply put, making a string follow a curve without straig
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Off & on. R.I. Archer,,, used to do the "tour" in "Traditional" Archery. Made my own stick bows and wood arrows,, and sold a few. On "247" also with another name Have we met?
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Nope, not Phil. I am. (S)
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Looks like it should have more guides. But, following what I understood from the articles in the Rodmaker Magazine this is the way it played out. Maybe the soft action had much to do with the placement? It bends all the way to the handle, but the arc straightens out from the tip back as presure is applied. Maybe I'm just used to seeing rods with more? It does cast rather nicely though. 7 guid
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Here's my first baitcaster. Used the blank from a rod I got on my 13th birthday (44 yrs. ago). Was a 9' lamiglass spinning rod. I rebuilt it as a light 10 1/2 foot baitcaster. I know, I broke some rules by extending the length. I'd like to submit this for comments on what I can do better on my next try. Open to suggestions. It's a slide on the overall makings. While I think I got the guides
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I just finished my first plate job for a bait casting setup. I like them for variouse reasons now.
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Always stopping,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, until the next one. (S)
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Seems that today's trend is "ultra lite reels" and I hate them. Makes for a very tiring, unbalanced system. Adding weight to the butt was a way to help. A larger spool does not always mean heavy enough though, I go for the weight. Another quick (semi) fix is the possibility of adding solder wire wraps to the spool arbor, but this is only a poor band-aid at best as when stripping line t
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If you need; Manhatten Supply Company (MSC), search "Abrasive Pads".
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well, if you were getting uncofused, now you can > go back to being confused again. > > NERBS - North East Rod Builders Errr, wrong about being mistaken. (LOL) Thanks.
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Phil- Just a thought here (I've done this and it's a ball,,,, people look at you funny with a fish on though). Finding the line weight of the blank (usually underrated) go up one weight (using a 10 line for a 9 blank) you can go to a site like RIO or SA and check the weight of their shooting tapers. This will be in grains but one can convert to ounces easily enough and this should give a good i
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Whew! Was beginning to wonder if I was wrong (or not quite right) in my method,,, guess I was mistaken. Being fairly new at this, I'm probably not as fast as I should be. Found out quickly that (as mentioned) just getting it on fast, then go back over it to trim and dab under the foot WITHOUT trying to get the whole rod done in one shot is the way to go for this slowpoke. Think I'll "sta
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Reading some threads about thinning epoxy, I noticed where some seem to like heat. 80 degree rooms, epoxy heated warm(?) in a microwave, etc. And on other threads I keep seeing that the use of aluminum foil will help draw off the heat to allow for more pot time. I'm thinking, some guys just work faster, or in smaller amounts as oposed to the foil guys drawing off heat. Or am I missing somethin
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I do a bit of Yakkin for stripers and blues too. I find 6-8 ft. nice in my yak and a 7-7 1/2' just about right. I'll use 9 & 10 ft flyrods but they can be a pain with the length at times. Other than that, action will be determined more by use, intent, and personal pref.
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Hmmm, Don't need to register to "read" the board do you? Would think if he simply looked, he should of recogised his bogus(?) name?
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If you're planning on possibly MOVING the guides, the hairdrier I'd use, but that wouldbe it. May need to fight with any residue to remove it,,,,, but any abrasive anything will make the old spot stand out proud if it's not covered with a new guide. (I'd think) You may ,after stripping to refinish, want to sit back and evaluate if you'll want to recoat the blank with a finish / sealer? I'm not
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Just an idea and observation,,,, If your looking for something different,,, Would a copolymer / mono 2-4# tippet material help the 1/3 strength problem and become invisible under something like high build flex-coat? Maybe leaving the wraps a bit open and only on the actual foot (partially) would help? Probably help me in the opportunity to position things better too? Just a foolish beginner's t
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I'd be suspect of the dryer sheet for starters.
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Being a newbie, and probably all wet in my theory and if so, I'll accept the flaming as learning. One thing that helps me determine what's going on with my casting is to use spray foot powder on a rod that I'm having troubles with (actually started with store boughts). By spraying with foot powder before a cast,, if your having trouble with line slapping the rod it stands out like a sore thumb
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Christopher Tan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > thanks gary.. i was wondering abt hookset too, > given that there's not much backbone on a fly > rod.. wonder how those noodle sticks do it, sine > it's 2-4 lb line only > > - > fish hard, fish on! Hookset just like on a flyrod after blues / bass / pike / etc. Keep rod pointed toward
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If you did a search on flyline makers you'll find sort of a relevant table to give you an idea. Fly lines are specificly weighted in both the shooting heads and the tapers of weight forward lines. These willbe weighted in grains that is easily converted to fractions of ounces. Remember also that most rods cast better with a weight or two above their ratings. For example a 8 weight would most li
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LOL!!!!!
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Been considering trying to re-solder a 16 ring on a tube frame. Just concerned about breaking the ring. Maybe slowly heating / slowly cooling would work??? Don't know, just asking. Would some liners be better for this than others? I know machining & working with ceramic, even & slow on the heat is the trick, but others? Anyone have experience with this?
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While reading RM Magazine, I noticed a comment on large rings for conventional casting with shock leaders as being a smart move and would love to try it. I really, REALLY hate them knots crashing through my system. However, my tip accepts a #7 1/2 just fine (could go with an 8) but I've seen nothing offered in this size(?) with a 16 ring (lots of 10's and a few ugly 12's only). Am I looking in
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Ray- Know what you're saying. Not in rodbuilding (yet) but I've been in other fields where I've done the pics, and sometimes actually made machined parts and sent them to folks to help them out. Especially on making parts for folks, I find it,,,,, puzzling(?) that before sending there is all sorts of communications,,, then when sent,, Nothing! Not a thank you,, item recieved,,, didn't / did wor
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For "try" guides I went to @#$%&. bought a "lot of 50+ guides" for $6.50 plus small S&H. Probably wouldn't use them in a build,,, but fine for playing with or making ice jiggin sticks for friends. (just an idea)
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Tom- Recieved my first issue of a new subscription Friday. Today I recieved what must be your "something" (Vol 7 - Issue 1). Thank you. Expected was anouther newspaper quality "rag" full of advertising and hype with a lot of fluff and little meat. Boy was I surprised! This is definately quality reading! And I could read and understand it - not a real easy thing for me somet
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Food for thought? I'm in the process of making a light duty lathe (sorta) for turning handles and plugs. It's light duty, cheap, and most of the heavy stuff willbe done with a moderately sized router on a form guide. RPMs are variable from about 50 - 1,000. May give you an idea to continue with your own? While not the way I'm going, seen many that simply use a drill with a center. Using progr
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Thanks.
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