Tom Locke Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > We need some more info. > > How much drag are you using? > You said you have a Raptor and are using 40+ > pounds of drag. If this is true, then you need a > 400+ gram jigging rod. None of the lighter rods > can handle that amount of drag. I have a JM 3 > Kings Heavy for my HX Raptor. It i
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I used to use masking tape and sealed it well, but I have had 3 or 4 rods come back with problems so went to adhesive drywall tape and no more problems. I also had a rod that spent two days in the saltwater when it went overboard. Blank was ok, but the reel seat was toast, and that rod was over 4 years old, but the tape went to mush. So now nothing but drywall tape for me.
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kevin knox Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This application is requiring 2 different needs. > Workability of a lighter lure and the backbone of > a heavier rod. You might want to consider the > Three Kings Special 53L or M. This blank will > give you the lure tip and the backbone that you > will need. After watching your You-Tube vid
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That was kind of my thinking, but the manufactures are saying very clearly that the action of the jig is clearly a function of the rod, so a heavy rod will have good action on a 350 gram jig but terrtible action on a 100 gram jig, if I am reading it right. They guys at Mudhole told me that they have heard from the manufacturer of their vertical jigging blanks and they say to go with the blank
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Ok, I need some help from the Vertical Jigging Rod experts. I fish a lot in Mexico where we have some really brutal Yellowtail ( very much like Amberjack) and the Vertical Jigging really produces. The problem with these fish is that they are caught really close to the bottom with lots of coral and rocks. We normally fish 80 lb spectra with 60 Mono top shot and sometimes that is marginal. So w
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Well, guess I learned my lesson, I got really fired up with all of the good reports and this was a great blank that has led to the demise of a large number of Yellowtail in Baja Mexico but I should have gone with a Calstar or Seeker blank. Course I have a lot of those and they have never broken. Oh well, at least I have all the guides and other equipment and there was this one tiny flaw in the
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I can not get ahold of anybody in Yuma, AZ at the Hastings/GUSA place and was hoping that I could do a warranty adjustment on a SW70XH which broke this year. Guess the rod waited to long to break. When I call, I get disconnected numbers and no contact. Are they out of business or does anyone have any better numbers?
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Boy, that sure seems short. I make a lot of stand up rods and most are 12-14 on the bottom. I always try to put it in the harness like Doc is talking about and it may be a belt or it may be a full blown harness, but then I go one step further and have the guy , or gal, lift varying weights up to 20 or 30 pounds. By doing that you get a real quick idea of the most effecient lengths.
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I had a customer that insisted on an Ugly stick and I made a rod using a Gator Glass and since they look a lot alike he was happy as can be and the blank is still going strong many years later.
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I have built several 10 foot fly rods for doing exactly what you are talking about and generally used a 5 wt rod, one I believe was a 6 and they have held up and done the job for years. While the guys with 7 ft rods are trying to cast a float and a minnow , I can toss a lot further. I even did an extension on one rod and got almost 13 feet out of the blank and it has quickly become my favorite r
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My penmanship teacher in elementary school said numerous times that her cat had better penmanship than I had so after trying numerous times to make a good signature, I finally took Jimi's advice and let Decal Connection do all the signatures. They really rock with their work
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I agree with Spencer, go with cork and seal it well. Eva foam and Hypalon do not have the right feel. I built one for a customer that insisted, and he ended up paying to have it taken off and replaced with cork finally.
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I build sabiki rods for catching bait and they sort of work but the two problems are the entry point and the Fuji lowrider does help, and the second problem is that the tips are made of softer plastic and they groove out in no time.
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Well, this got me to thinking and I spent the afternoon learning how to do a Forhan lock on a double footed guide. If you hold the tension, cut the thread and push it between the feet, it actually works fairly well. I did this with the first wrap and then double wrapped over the top to smooth things out and it looks good and I will do destruction testing in the next week or so. This issue with
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I build a lot of saltwater rods and have run into a problem with guides. When someone drops a rod and the guides drop against the edge of the boat or anything that comes into their path, the guides will bend slightly and come out from under the thread. SinceI build a lot with heavy duty casting and boat rod guides like the HNSG Fuji or LRSG, the guides are about as heavy as I would expect so I
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It's great to see the good Doctor branching out. Now if Mark Griffin and I have any input we are going to get Doc to start doing some Acid Wrap rods and actually using them. Stay tuned for further developments. He is coming down to my area in Mexico and the in-Doc-trination is about to begin.
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And then you hand them a spiral wrap and they stare dumboundedly for a few minutes.
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I build a lot of heavy saltwater spiral wraps and I put the first guide at about 15 to 18 degrees to the left. Second guide is approximately 165 degrees and the third guide is at 180 degrees as well as the rest of the guides after that. Make sure to load the rod and pull at various angles to make sure you maintain line clearance from the blank in all conceivable positions. If I have a left
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I build saltwater rods that are used heavily and under extreme conditions and I would never think of not using a locking wraps. With the advent of locking wraps we are able to use single foot guides like the Fuji single foot boat guide for rods in the 60 lb class and they are holding up really well.
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I think that the customer service at Pac Bay is some of the best I have ever received. Try this new address and hopefully it works.
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I'll get this vocabulary lesson down pat yet. Actually I meant 4 crossover points. When Ray put the thing on Virtual Weave I was within .1mm on everything so I guess it was close enough for govenment work. It still seems that the elongation is noticeable up towards the tip so I may re-do it with a little less spacing and try to work it out in the pattern. or just settle for three crossover po
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I get that point but the diamonds go from compressed on the left side of the rod to being elongated by the right side of the wrap. Guess I need to remeasure or something. It is really noticeable.
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Ok, I have been over the book a hundred times, and wrapped a dozen or so rods but am still not totally happy with the spacing. If I understand right, you reverse the spacing so that the shorter spacing is at the left and the longer spacing is right. That does not make sense as the rod diminishes in diameter as you go to the right. I am doing a Calstar Jig rod right now and I have approx 23
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I use two coats of U-40 Color Lock and then two coats of Perma Gloss. I want everything totally smooth and finished before the epoxy goes on. I do notice that the Madiera does get darker with the color lock so I try to start out quite a bit lighter in color when laying out a design. I only did the Perma Gloss after reading that Billy did it but the results are fantastic. So he gets credit
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Gee, you mean point and click ordering with a tie in to stock so you know whether or not it is in stock? Hint, Hint, Hint. <*)))))))><
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this is so much fun to wrap my simple mind "spirally" of course around this idea. I think there might be some difference in the two rods in terms of where the line hits on a backcast. With a spiral, most of the guides are in the direction of the cast (like a spinning reel) whereas with a conventionally wrapped rod I have a somewhat different relation between the guides, the rod, and t
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I have had this same discussion with Doc Ski and most people assume that spirals will somehow cast more poorly than a good spiral. What I find is that when I build a spiral, I use a lot less guides and therefore cut down on the friction. So I have had pretty much the same experience as Mark with castability, especially on the salt water stuff. I built a "super-salmon" rod for a frien
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I had tried all of these different methods and I am convinced that none of my epoxy was mixed as well as the Pac-Bay machine does it with the mixing rod. I get less bubbles than I ever did with a ball bearing in an old rotiserrie motor I made up and we won't even talk about the mixing by hand, So I for one will be getting in touch with mark at @#$%& and ordering a couple of extras in case I ha
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I had tried all of these different methods and I am convinced that none of my epoxy was mixed as well as the Pac-Bay machine does it with the mixing rod. I get less bubbles than I ever did with a ball bearing in an old rotiserrie motor I made up and we won't even talk about the mixing by hand, So I for one will be getting in touch with mark at @#$%& and ordering a couple of extras in case I ha
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Ever since Billy V's post I have been using it on crosswraps after two coats of U-40 Color lock and it really seals up the thread and makes the epoxy look much smoother and brighter. Now if I can just keep it from drying up in the neck. Sure does stink though.
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