Thnx guys--so to this there is no solution!
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Curious if anyone one has any standard on when they transition to double foot guides vs singles. I've been distance casting 3/4oz to 1 1/2oz lures on a spinning rig for 3 years and nearly every guide has cracking on finish (thread master) at end of guide foot, and diagonally across wrap. Is this in indication that I should make the move to double foot? Rod is capable of doing over 110yrds with a
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Well good luck. That is an extremely powerful rod for the intended use but if it fits what you are looking for then go with it....
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personally I like threadmaster lite. 10/11 wt spey is a beast of a float rod. Is he carp float fishing with it?
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So here's a follow-up to my "guides/losing energy" post. I have one rod already built, and like stated in the other post, I have yet to lay into this rod because of the air temps ( -2 right now). What do most of you think is a reasonable air temp to get out and start wailing some casts, full effort, without fear of breaking the rod due to air temps? Tim
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Thanks to all that replied.... One rod is completed with the NGC system, TKWSG 30-20, TKTSG 10, and 6 TKTSG 8's and a tip top. I have three more to build, as I am making myself a set of these for carp fishing, so experimentation is a possibility. But of course, who wants to tear a rod down after building on it, and when these blanks are goin nearing $300 each, I don't want to mess around too
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Guide "flex" is immaterial and will not make any > practical difference. > > ............... just to use an exaggerated example, and not to pick on RECoils because I like them for what I use them for (not distance casting).....Lets assume I was to put recoil RSGP's, the high frame re
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thanks for the replies so far, it is a spinning set-up. Here's some extra info--Blank weighed in before build at 5.59oz and after build went 8.59oz. Tom-- where I was thinking there might be energy loss to the guides is just at the point where I am making the "turn" from having the rod fully loaded to "propelling" the bait forward. I would think at that point the strain
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So here are some thoughts that have come to me when building maximum distance spinning carp rods and dealing with heavier weights, from 3-6oz... I am using NGC system, and trying to run the smallest running guides possible, which for my setup I went with 8's (6-20 powerpro, 16lb shock leader). When I lightly test-casted this setup before it really got cold here I was getting about 70yds w/ gui
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Have built quite a few spinning "casting" rods in the last 5-6yrs for what you are describing. Great Lakes pier casting. Some of my best casts with 2500, 4000, shimanos, and 3000, 3500 size diawas have been in the 120 meter distance w/ 1oz pyramid sinkers. Not the best flyers out there, but good. IN most instances though, 8, 10, 15lb braids were used, not 30 like what you want but h
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All would be spinning. The rods factory run up to $400. Some of it has to do w/ knots making it through the rod, but other than that, just don't see the point in the size and # of guides. Carp rods seem to be very similar in action/size/power of surf rods. couple other questions--with the weights stated above, can anyone see issues w/ running single foot titanium guides vs the double foot
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Am looking to build a few carp rods for myself "method" fishing. Looking at factory rods, I have never seen such one sided thinking in any type of rod builds/fishing. For those that have not seen carp rod factory builds, it really takes a looking to see what I mean. Typical builds have 6 guides on 13' rods and 6 also on 12' rods 2.5-3.5lb "test curve" rods. Usual sizes go
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Bluegills are used to eating things that are nearly microscopic, and know how these little tidbits react when they are inhaled. Stands to reason that the smallest line you are willing to fish will surely get more takes. Many times if I am on a serious gill mission in clear water I will fish 2# line, and at times go to 1lb. Big trophy gills have been around for a decade and have seen just about
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Hello guys/gals Building on my first blank soley based on sensitivity. Will be a GLX blank, goin w/ recoils for running guides (6's) and tysg/tlvsg in the concept system, so am keeping the blank as light as possible. Other than that (keeping rod weight down) and having a tight fitting handle, what can be done to make the rod as sensitive as possible? Guys out there put any stock in a &quo
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hey guys, maybe if I give you a little background on what I am doing it might help you guys understand what I am goin for and therefore be able to help me out.....spencer, it really isn't a small set-up at all (a Salmon rod, 11'3") but it is a rod that I want to get maximum casting distance fishing a superline...... Chose the 30-20 based on the spool size and angle of the reel, (a daiwa
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Hello out there, Looking for some opinions, building a spinning rod using the NGconcept and will be running a 30-20 first two guides. Will be using 10/2 powerpro exclusively on this rod. Question is, will I be alright going from a 20 down to a 6mm intercept guide or should I use a 7mm. I usually use a 7mm when goin from a 16, but I wanted to see if I could get away with a 6mm running such sma
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Its been a long time since I have dealt w/ baitcasters often and I have a hard time remembering this bit of information but on those reels, doesn't the levelwind actually go side to side as the spool revolves on the cast? If this is so, then the spool width would not matter, as the levelwind would follow the line as it is taken off the spool (to some extent). In this case I would say that the 6
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I think along the lines like what Tom was saying. That longer rod should cast farther, but if you are not a powerful caster that can keep that stamina up all day then you will end up casting short. At some point there is a compromise of length vs. tip speed. I have a friend that luvs 12' er's for distance casting, and laughs when I bring out my 10.5's and 11'3"ers, claiming they can't cas
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I would also add salmon and steelhead blanks to the mix. Looking for specifics, I have done real well w/ the CT series from Sage. But what is long to you? 8',9', 10.5', 12'??? Couple that w/ a superline braid in the 2lb diameter and I think you will get what can be done w/ a 1/4oz lure(BIG difference btw 1/4 and 1oz). Larger spooled reel in the 4000-5000sz shimano and a 3000-4000 sz in daiw
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Hey Guys, I do feel it is a very good possibility it was the cold, but I don't have certainties YET. If you had the explaination of the material that is used in recoils ( like I did), I think you guys would see how its a very strong possibility, BUT until the tests are done, I can't give any concrete evidence of anything, other than the fact that I had grooving. This material is like nothing
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Hey guys, some of you might remember about a week ago I posted that I had bad grooving on my recoils. This rod was used for float fishing steelhead and kings. Thought you might like to hear an update of sorts. Talked w/ Gary Schaefer of G Loomis and Alan Gnann of REC about the issues and this is what I found out, and what they had to say.... According to Gary, in the history of puttin
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The noise is the guide vibrating as line is retrieved through it ( or fighting a fish on a run). Since the frame is so flexible, it will be vibrating at a high speed causing the sound........ Tim
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Steve, The thing is that these guides help the blank perform at its highest level, meaning a rod completed w/ these guides fishes GREAT. You get full response out of the blank from hooksets, to casting. Thats why it is painful to say this.... Looked at the other guides (today) below that one, and they were all grooved! Was told that this could be in isolated incident, that I could have g
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Yeah, sorry Tim, meant you.... Well, if it works for you then by all means go for it, not here to stop you from doing what works for you.... best of luck, TIm
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Well Guys, thats why I posted it, thought some of you would like to know. BUT I was suprised, to say the least, Theres at least 5-6 grooves in the tip, no doubt from putting side pressure on fish. This rod is a float fishing rod and I can tell the difference in a down-stream drift, that is how I noticed it. Can't say that I agree w/ the gentlemen who posted that ceramics get groved, as I ha
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Just did an inspection of a tip and found that I had major grooving on a recoil guide, in several places! Anyone had any problems w/ the tip grooving on recoils? Don't understand it, run 10lb mainline on this rod BUT never exceed 6lb test leaders, so really only am pulling as hard as 6lb line will allow, not that hard!. NOW, the thing that gets me is that I fished a lot of King Salmon w/ thi
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Tom, Have built a couple rods where I wanted to utilized the concept system for mazimun casting distance. Have been very pleased w/ the results that I have gotten using the system. What I wanted to comment on was the size of your choke selection. One of the "old" rules that I still adhere to to some extent, was if you were in a predicament like the one that you are in now you
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just did a couple w/ copper main and chinese red trim (silks) and they turned out well... Tim
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Spence, I use a rotary tool at low speed, and then finish up w/ sandpaper, they turn out fine...and they still flex just fine also... Tim
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Tim, Here is another basically "strictly float angler"'s opinion on the build. Most of the float anglers I fish with and myself included like about a 20" to 24" overall length in the handle. The handle built w/ the longer foregrip and the shorter butt is because it aids in balancing the outfit out and it is born of function. Whether you use a centerpin or you use a spinni
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