I have found that permagloss softens right up and is easy to remove with fairly gentle scraping with the application of heat, say from a heat gun. Just use as little heat as necessary to do the job. Mike
Forum: rodboard

It would be a really good idea to put wraps on the ferrules before doing such a test. Not necessary to coat them. Mike
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The tax for the rod cannot be charged and > collected until the blank becomes a rod. > > ............. And you don't think it would be worthwhile to try get it changed to the much simpler arrangement that I propose? Do you guys really like things the way they are? Mike
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OK, I stand corrected on the details of the tax, but my basic point stands. Collecting the tax at the point of retail sale of a blank would make the question irrelevant of whether any further transaction on it is for profit, and eliminate the intrusive paperwork. We should push for thischange in the law. Mike
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While the argument does seem to be settled that the FET does go to a good cause, there is still much to criticize in the arrangements for collecting it, at least as far as rodbuilders are concerned. It is really obnoxiously intrusive in how it comes down to require a filing for a single rod even if it is not built for profit. I don't think it needs to be. As I understand it now, the tax is 10% up
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Thinking about this, I'll off a couple of scenarios for amusement... "Although the FBI pursued for years this notorious mobster, involved in extortion rackets, prostitution, drugs etc., they never succeeded in pinning any of it on him. However for amusement he did build and sell fishing rods and never filed a 720. With this they got him, and he's currently doing time for it." A f
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Let me put the question another way. Has anyone ever heard of the IRS troubling someone over the matter of one or two rods? If the IRS is doing this, a congressional investigation into their waste of time and resources is called for. There is a lot more they can recover from some of these shady off-shore hedge fund dividend/share swaps . Of course one or two rods does have the possibility of be
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If one takes the absolutist tone of some of the replies here to the absurd limit, you could get in trouble teaching rodbuilding to someone. Say you demonstrate wrapping on a guide or two. If the student doesn't redo these, why you have manufactured at least part of this rod, and therefore liable for all this blizzard of paperwork. Underlying all this, I can't help feeling that there is some resen
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You might find this article of interest that I wrote for my fishing club web site Mike
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Eugene Moore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I beg to differ with Dr Hanneman's assumption that > rod characteristics can be described by static > measurements alone. .... An infinite number of > rods can be designed to match any spring rate with > any deflection angle desired. Most will not be > good tools for fishing.... You could of
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Tom the modulus of the rod does have an effect on the resonant frequency in that it is one of the factors that determines the spring constant. The overall problem I have had in trying to go forward with this approach to characterizing rods is that the "constant" isn't constant. It increases as the rod is flexed. At any point along the rod, the stiffness is the product of the modulus
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Some more comments here. Tom Justman's estimate of moment of inertia seems fairly reasonable. It's surely not off by a factor of ten, and I suspect it's not off by even a factor of two. It we take it as reasonable, the difference between six guides and eleven guides is about 2% of what would be the total moment of inertia with the guides added. Said another way, the difference between six and ele
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To enlarge on what Tom said, your calculations would be more meaningful if you could calculate,or better find some way to measure the moment of inertia of the blank. That would put the comparison of the differences in a more meaningful context.
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Hunter The wave pattern you sometimes see in a cast fly line is due to the tip oscillating up and down, not due something that happens to the line going through the guides. Other things being equal, that oscillation has a larger amplitude and takes longer to damp the more weight you add to rod. This is because moving weight has kinetic energy, To make a cast of a given distance, you have to
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If you prefer metric units, the US Mint specifies the weight of one cent as 2.500 grams. See Mike
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Tom see and This I believe is what the original post was complaining about. The pdf version on the Common Cents web site is indeed fine. Mike
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Tom I meant the one that's in the gallery. Mike
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Mike Barkley I'll try and gently set you straight on LaserJets. I work for Hewlett Packard in printing technology. LaserJet is a trademark we use only for laser printers. Our inkjet printers are referred to as DeskJets or the big ones DesignJets. Our FAX machines and copiers are are mostly called OfficeJets and they may incoporate either laser or inkjet printers. Laser print should work fine i
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Tom Just a suggestion, but if it were encoded as a .gif image instead of a .jpg it would come through a lot clearer from that source and likely wouldnt take any more space. Mike
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Emory The use of a tapered leader of any kind is mostly related to flycasting as it extends the taper of the fly line. The mechanics of a flycast are like those of a bullwhip. The crack of a bullwhip is due to the tip (or tippet) exceeding the speed of sound. How does this happen since the fastest a human can move a hand is about 100 mph (major league baseball pitchers)? This is a factor of se
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I have written a how-to-do-it article you might find helpful The advantage of them is that being stranded over the whole length, they are much more supple than monofilament tapered leaeders, so you get the mechanics of the taper without the stiffness. They lose less energy so they turn over longer lengths of tippet. Mike
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I haven't used burl cork in a handle before and I was wondering if it was suitable to use at the front or back end of a grip where it might chip, or whether it's best to use it in the in-between locations. Since it seems to be composed of chunks of regular cork somehow glued together, I might suspect it would be somewhat susceptible to those chunks chipping out. Mike
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I cooked up a simple cork lathe to shape grips already glued to the rod. It is illustrated at You can see a fixture called a "rod end" clamped in place to do this job. As described in the article, the rod blank is well padded with masking tape where it is held in the rod end. Perhaps you may find this idea useful. You may also notice that drill that turns the rod is connected to it b
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