One that comes to mind is called a "Pin Vise." Tool Makers/Machinists use them to hold small parts when hand working........I have several of varies sizes, but they were purchased 40 plus years ago. I think one of the vendors/sponsors on the left carry a similar tool.
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Your "rant" has merit...........................I needed some repair parts. The cost was $2.85....................SHIPPING!!!!!!!!!! $8.95........and then there was the "PACKAGING" cost $3.75. (the items was sent in a regular brown manila clasp envelope. USPS would have shipped for $1.35 or $1.45 according to them. Maybe the vendors on the left ship at THIER most c
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I "endure" this finish problem on a regular basis. Because of thier properties these oily type hardwoods are what we use in the pool cue industry. Custom water fowl call makers use them for the same reason, they are "hard wood." Some have suggested acetone, which will remove the oil, but it's also hard on your lungs and it causes the grain to separate which may lead to pr
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Sad to see another "traditional" American product depart this country..........even if ownership stays in the U.S. quality WILL NOT be the same. My question is, has anyone noticed "ANYTHING" that actually cost less after the product was moved to that "cheaper" manufacturing process......? Maybe I'm just naturally "cynical" about this type of thing being
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Mitchell 300 is still available and "works." I have several that were manufactured in the late 60s or early 70s and other than a few new spools a screw or two they have performed flawlessly.
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Minwax makes a "wood hardener." It is a penetrating product that bonds with wood fiber and forms a "solid" base. You can use anything from CA to Tru-Oil as a finish. MINWAX Wood Hardener Good Luck
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Mike McCornesky (spl) is right, you most likely didn't do anything wrong, except try to apply tru oil to cocobolo......I use "a lot" of Cocobolo in my business and it is one of the hardest of ALL the exotic woods to work with... I've only used tru-oil a few times with near identical results as you, "every time." I did find using a grain alcohol, 180 proof , will remove enou
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Depends on how much you want to spend, but any good ARCHERY manufacturer makes arrow cut off saws that work for "any" carbon fibre or alluminum shaft and the wheels are cheaper, $2.75 to $4.50 ea. and you can buy the wheels at most good hardware stores. Recently saw Dremel Kits that were over $200.00 and the Dremel Tool was about $80.00 "plus" accessories...........arrow c
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It's a gaurantee that someone on this board has figured this out, but until they respond try this. Get a digital gram (or smaller) scale, weigh the amount of "mix" you normally use, apply the mix to wrap/rod and then ~ reweigh ~ what is left over, subtract that number from the original and you will have the amount used. (including the "normal" waste). That is the only accu
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www.cuesmith.com ~ Very good quality snake "skins". www.cuestik.com ~ Very good quality exotic "skins." Both have good instructional materal that will help get a "skin" on "RIGHT." Most of the pool cue "parts" manufacturer sell "skins" that are usually of higher quality than "hobby or craft" stores and they are
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I agree with the return assessment as to who should pay. personally I'd never return a small item even if it were $30 or $40 dollars....because those items will usually get used. What I've encountered is orders in excess of $1000.00 having sub's amounting to a couple of hundred.........bad for business even if the customer accepts the sub. He/she will always know "they" wanted someth
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Ligitimate complaint............If "my" customer asks for a specific "guide" or any other part "I" should make every effort possible to supply that part. If we continue to substitute parts it won't be very long before we're selling Wal Mart rods and NOT customs. If parts are not available it IS up to the customer if they want a substitute, even if the substitute is
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Try "U.S. Plastics" they carry about everything else. When I read your question they came to mind so I may have seen the tubes in thier catalog....If nothing else Google , that should get several sites..
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TAIG Tools sells an identical unit or Chris Hightower offers one with a pass through head stock. It works well when using mandrels.
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I'm not sure if you just want to try your hand at casting or if you are looking for an ivory appearing product. But I tried the casting with the process others spoke of, comes out nice...but if you need the product without the work try the address below. Atlas Fibre manufactures a rod called "ivorene" II and III, it looks and feels very similar to ivory. I don' t buy it in large piec
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A little late in my reply. But I think Chad told me they had some stock larger than 3/4 inch. Chad Moses Atlas Billiards www.cuestik.com 1.800.283.7845 ex.1414
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Any of the billiards supply companies that manufacture materials for cues will have what you want. Start your search with "Cue building components or material." Then just follow where it takes you. This will bring up some sites that may not appear to be what you're looking for but check them any.
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You have a very good point about the cost of "Cues" and other intricate wood inlays. I didn't go much farther than reading your post, but If you look at those shops where those Cues are made make an estimate of how much that machinery costs.............Read the following with an open mind. I just brushed on the top of what a "general purpose" cue shop has in it........Then
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Send me an e-mail and I' ll send you the address of the "BEST" wood stabilizer on the market. It's a commerical product "not mine." I use it to stabilize wood used in pool cue making....a "quart " is about $45.00 a "five gallon" can is about $85.00. Hmmmmmmmmmm! It may be higher now. I haven't bought any for a year or so. BTW, that Min Wax wood ha
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Try "System Three" clear coat. It's a two part epoxy that will seal against water, acids (fish slime and blood) and is as durable as any finish. It also polishes to a very high, non yellowing gloss if you want to expend the effort. We use it on pool cues and the abuse doesn't get any worse than that. Padduk??? While light weight it is porus and should be sealed with very thin
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Some cats like some people don't show the affect "super glue" has on them. It's mainly respiratory and liver damage. Again most don't know they are being affected in any way. Actually the reference about the cat was more about that errant hair that seems to be floating around about the time I get a good finish. I have to add I still use this "finish" regardless, but I als
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SEE Q & A SECTION Maybe I used the wrong term "finishing" a rod handle I should have said applying "super glue" in the quantity required to give a coat or two to a rod handle is sufficient to affect you ESPECIALLY IF YOU DO THIS ON A REGULAR BASIS, IT'S RESIDUAL. I still stand by the rest or my post. You're right about some of those exotic woods, some people I kno
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Volume 9 issue 3 of Rod Maker has an article in Q&A section about sealing wood handles with "Super Glue." ""Exotic Wood Finishing"" I'm assuming anyone with the intellect to build a custom rod would know NEVER use this glue in this quantity in a closed room, adequate ventilation is never adequate with this glue. (it would mean outside the building).........
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Rocklers (www.rockler.com ) carries a very good water based urethane, it's tough enough that we use it to seal pool cue shafts after final sanding. Anyone that has ever shot a game of pool knows what kind of abuse some cues are subjected to and this product stands up very well, best part it's easy to apply.
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A bit late with a reply, but try (www.cuestik.com) If that doesn't work try Atlas Billiard Supply. This is a billiard supply or pool cue parts manufacturer. They also have acrylics up to 1 3/8ths inches in diameter. They manufacture about every conceiveable type ring (spacer) a person could want.
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I don't think my email address is blocked so if anyone wants the name of the company that manufactures the product used to stabilize wood contact me, I will gladly send it back. Most companies that sell this product sell it by the pint or quart and it is expensive. I buy it 5 gallons at a time and pay about ""double the per quart price"" for 5 gallons. If making wooden ha
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I must be living right. New subscription ordered May 9th at 7:37 A.M. Post mark is May 18th P.M. received magazine May 23. Vol. 9, issue 2. On the back, inside, of the cover is the statment ," this is your last issue of Rod Maker Magazine." I have a "Hand written" address label so the issue ending code is not there. Is this the "normal " procedure for new
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"Chainsaw" files are sold in various sized sets as small as 3/16ths and there are probably metric sizes that will be slightly smaller by a couple of thousandants, they work great. I'm not sure why but those files seem to fit most of the blank sizes I use. Lucky I guess.
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Mike the company is listed as ""www.cuestik.com," doesn't sound like rod building equipment does it???. They carry fibre and plastic rings we use building pool cues. The parent company is actually an electrical insulation manufacturer. Hope I'm not violating the rules ....... Sorry I took so long to reply..
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The mystry of the debonding is in the composition of the poker chip, if it's an acetel base they won't bond well, they will bond, but NOT well. High quality and even some medium grade chips use the acetel (delrin) base. If a "ring" or spacer effect is wanted there are several companies that manufacture "rings" specifically for this type appearances and they bond with no ha
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