Herb, Believe me, second thoughts is why I posted this question. Low end 4wt spey blanks are running $300+. I'd like to try the Dec Hogan Echo but they don't sell blanks. The finished rod sells for $350. That's why I'm wondering if anyone has extended a longer blank and what the results were, good or bad.
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Thought about that one too. From what I've gathered on Spey pages that rod will throw around 400 grains. I'm looking for a 3 or 4wt spey rating, 300-350 grains. Thanks though.
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Thanks Eric, Yeah, I know there are many, many options. And I'm on Spey pages daily. Just wanting to try something on a limited budget.
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I am wanting to build a spey rod for trout, something around 12 ft or under and not too expensive. I already have a Rainshadow 10'8" 6wt (single hand rating) switch rod that I really enjoy for trout. I want something fairly similar, as far as grains it will handle and action, only about a foot longer. My thoughts are I could purchase the same 6wt switch and extend it about a foot or shoul
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I built a 10 wt Tiger Eye saltwater blank into a spinning rod recently. Took it to Baja. It casts very nicely, lures 1/2 to 3/4 oz. Sadly I didn't get to test it on any big fish. Great for travel and pretty cheap. Their saltwater blanks are a bit faster than the regular 2 or 4 pc blanks.
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I just built a spinning rod with a 9ft 4pc 10wt blank to take to Baja. I couldn't find a multi piece spinning blank for travel so I opted for the Tiger Eye saltwater fly blank. It's a great value. It'll throw up to 3/4 ounce lures and has a nice med fast action.
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Thanks everyone. Sometimes a little reassurance can go a long way. I still consider myself very new to the craft having done maybe ten rods and always learning. I definitely learned something about taking the time to do it right the first time. I'll try not to make that mistake again.
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I tried twisting it by hand, fairly hard but not as hard as I could have, and it held. Still a little afraid of ultimately having to re-do it. I twisted it with more force than any rod torque could muster but just wondering about long term strength.
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In my haste to put a handle together right before bed I used crystallized rod bond without heating it first. I thought if I just mixed it enough that it would be okay. It's been about 5 days and the remains on the scrap cardboard are pretty well set up but I can still pull pieces off with my fingers. Those pieces will also tear by hand leaving a slight tackiness on the fingers. Has anyone been
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I just snapped a 13' heaver rated up to 12 ounces with only 6 ounces during test casting today. Just a very basic "easy cast" with about 24 inches of line out. The break was 6 inches below the ferrule in the butt section. A very clean break. I know that nicks or dings can really weaken a graphite rod but this one was only cast about 25 times, the guides just taped on. I had 8 guide
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Am I missing something? Don't see any Tiger Eye blanks on the weekly special's page.
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Funny thing is, I've tried twice now to heat it up with a lighter and it won't budge. I got it pretty hot to the touch too. I guess I'm leaving it on. I'll deal with the consequences, whatever they may be, when the time comes. Mainly a winter steelhead rod anyway. Thanks all.
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Oops. I think I used flex coat guide foot adhesive on a fly rod tip top. You think it's the same as tip top adhesive? Or should I just heat it and clean it? Thanks for any input.
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Thanks for the advice. I didn't think that it was a defect. Batson must have some reason for incorporating that angle so I guess I'll just leave it alone.
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I have a set of forecast ceramics, single foot fly guides. They are all identical as far as I can tell. The thing is, when the foot is flush to the blank, the ring is more than several degrees from perpendicular to the blank. On my last fly rod with fuji guides, the rings were pretty much at 90 degrees. Should I worry about it? Should I bend them all? Thanks for any input.
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Will Lamiglas also be open for business during the show?
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I'm considering single foot alconite spinning guides for the stripper and 2nd guide on a 10 wt fly rod. (#16, #12 BYAG) I've read through the archives and like the idea of less wraps, weight, better casting distance etc. but am concerned about durability. I'll be fishing in Florida for small tarpon, barracuda, shark, mackeral...and at home in the NW for salmon. If I use the locking wrap, do I
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It sure does seem like enough guides. Thanks for the help.
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I'm going through the static guide placement for a 10' moderate action steelhead casting rod that I plan to simple spiral wrap. I already have 10 guides above the ferrule and just two below. Under a heavy load, the line just barely touches the blank at two spots roughly a foot and a half above the ferrule. But when I load test with the guides pointing down, I'm very happy with how the line fol
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Try rod-blanks.com. I saw they recently had a bunch of glass and IM6 blanks between $5 and $11.
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I used one on the last rod I made. Where the blank was exposed, it was a very snug fit. There wasn't much if any play in front. There was a bit of a gap but I just filled it with rodbond. Turned out very solid.
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I've been considering building a Lamiglas Certified Pro steelhead casting rod. 10'6", 6-10 lb. line. I have an off the shelf model and just love the mod. fast action and it's lightness. I would like to build a new one spiral wrapped. The problem is the price. Somewhere around $150. Any suggestions for similar quality and feel in a different, lower priced blank? I already have 2 Rains
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I just looked up the same topic with the same heading. Just do a search. Go back 90 days. Lots and lots of info and suggestions. Did my rod today and it looks great. Good luck.
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