Yes, I have built two spinning rods (8-12lb and 6-10lb) on CTS blanks, and they are superb. Sensitive, durable, and with smooth actions. Both are three-piece travel rods that have been all over the continent and taken considerable abuse in both fresh and saltwater without problems.
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I'm building a travel spinning rod for large pike, muskie, redfish, etc. -- large, but not Tarpon/shark size. The blank is rated 12-25 lbs, which is light for some Muskie work but should still do in a pinch. The question is, given that I use braided line that has the diameter of 8-10 lb mono, is there any reason to use running guides larger than a size 6? Guide height isn't an issue due to
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Scott, The graphite does not appear to be splintered, but it is definitely not covered by epoxy or paint where the rod hit the boat -- the coating chipped away, leaving bare graphite underneath.
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I recently made a light/ultralight spinning rod (4-10lb test) for use on smallmouth bass. It performed beautifully, right up until the point where a 35 inch pike crushed the lure at the boat, slamming the rod tip into the aluminum rail. the impact took a divot out of the paint, exposing the graphite about seven inches from the tip. My question is this -- how do I know if I damaged the rod?
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Thanks to everyone -- you all have saved me a many hours worth of aggravation! I'll take my chances with the current seat assembly. Best, Erik
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I did a stupid thing today... I forgot to clean the interior of the spinning reel seat before attaching it to brick foam arbors with Rodbond. There is undoubtedly some dust in there -- I ground both ends of the reel seat prior to installation. Given the following steps, is this going to start to spin on me? Can I test the seat now and expect it to hold in the future? 1). I glued the bric
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Has anyone worked out a reliable formula for how short we can make the feet on single-foot guides on a spinning rod? I am using a variety of brands in their titanium lines(Fuji, Recoil, AmTac) and it seems like it would be advantagous to shorten the feet to reduce the amount of wrapping material and increase the percentage of the rod that is free of encumberance. What is not clear to me
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To all, Thank you for your suggestions. Ted, you were correct about what I had in mind. Art, you may be right about the dubious benefits -- I suspect I'll give it a shot on a test rod to see what compromises in comfort and sensitivity result! If it works (or even if it doesn't) I'll post the results. Best, Erik
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The article on TN handles made me wonder if anyone has tried the following: 1). Drilling two holes in the reel foot 2). Using epoxy to afix a mounting plate to the underside of an all-cork or wood grip, and 3). Screwing the reel directly to the plate. Are there problems with this approach? Best, Erik
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Daniel, If you are trying to preserve the curve of the wood then I would not cut the piece into rings prior to drilling. I agree with Bill, that clamping the piece and using a long (and very sharp) bit is your best bet. Use a slightly undersized bit, mark the line that you are trying to hit in all dimensions on the outside of the piece, and go very slowly. The smaller bit diameter will allo
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Patrick, I do that on all of my rods and love the results. One think I would mention is that I find tape difficult to work with when wrapping small single-foots like recoils near the tip. Instead of tape I quickly tie the guide in place with 10 or so turns of thread and a knot before wrapping it for real. It works for me... Best, Erik
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Joe, I travel to Wisconsin at least once a year for a week of smallmouth fishing, with the occasional largemouth, walleye, and pike thrown in for good measure. I built on the Batson RX6 SB720-4 because a short breakdown rod really helps -- My buddy and I do a fair number of portage trips during these weeks. The rod is terrific for jigging, crankbaits, spinners, and even worming. I used six p
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You have to love this... I made a rod on a Sage 3-piece spinning blank to the specifications of a very picky fisherman. The recipient used it for a whopping 5 hours before he fell on it in the boat and broke the middle section clean in half. I happen to have another Sage blank that I can use, but he wants to keep the handle assembly and tip if possible. He apparently grew very attached in t
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Jim, I just built on the Batson SB720-4, intending the rod for smallmouth, largemouth, pike, and walleye. It is terrific for jigging, small crankbaits, spinners, and even worming. I used six pound flourocarbon exclusively, and caught many smallmouth over six pounds, largemouth at 4 pounds, pike, and walleye on the rod during a recent trip to Wisconsin. It did everything I asked, and more.
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I finished my first completely custom rod in time for a Wisconsin fishing trip. This board, as well as the countless good people willing to share expertise in Charlotte, made it all possible. Split grip, four-piece forecast ultralight, titanium guides, gossamar silk thread, a guide at the tip, and geared toward a specific reel and 6lb flourocarbon line -- it all came together (with countless m
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I have searched the archives (now going blind slowly), but I cannot find an answer to this... Many of the cork rings I recently purchased do not have flat surfaces for gluing. The uneveness is not out of control, but it definitely exists. I come from a woodworking background, and gluing endgrain -- a risky proposition under the best of circumstances -- was unthinkable with surfaces that did
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Not sure if this is bad for thread or not, but I find that cigar boxes provide an easy way to store thread. Of course, that the best part about the boxes is emptying them in the first place! Erik
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Hello All, I am making an ultralight with a Fuji NPS (18) and plan to mount it down-locking. After trying it out, I would like to cut down the non-locking end with the integral hood. Has anyone done this? Does anyone think that this will cause structrual problems so long as I do not cut higher than the end of the hood? Thanks, Erik
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John, For actual distributors, consider the following: Gilmer Hardwoods: They have the best array of wooden eye candy on the net. It isn't cheap, and it has a $100 minimum, but they have turning squares in most dimensions and of woods that I cannot find anywhere else. Hearne Hardwoods: Their selection of high-figure woods is spectacular, and they have excellent service. Irion Lu
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John, I am actually a woodworker dabbling in rodbuilding... and I can (perhaps) help you out. People here have been generous with their time -- I can manage the same with wood scraps! I have a few pieces of fiddleback hard maple, mesquite, figured claro walnut, etc. that I am happy to send you depending upon the size that you need. I forgot to mention initially that it would, of course, b
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Thanks everyone! I did not want to build on a blank failure waiting to happen. I have other blanks with which to work, and I can always use reamer stock. Best, Erik
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I'm new to rodbuilding, and recently procured some of the discontinued 6'6" three-piece IM10 All Star blanks to practice on. Since I intend to fish them, however, I am hoping that some of you can provide some guidance regarding the tendency of these blanks to stay bent after a few seconds under load... I assemble the blank, bend the tip 90 degrees, push down a few times, and then release
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Tom, Thank you, and I will definitely keep the limitations of the motor in mind! Erik
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Hello All, I am considering purchasing a Renzetti, but having no experience with lathes, I have a question: Is the standard 1/10 hp motor enough to use the tail stock/chuck accessory for drilling arbors, cork, and small rings of wood, or would I need to purchase the turning motor? Thanks, Erik
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Why is silk less user friendly? Is it more difficult to apply, or weaker once on the guides? Erik
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I'm new, and confused. I was looking at the Baston website, and noticed for the first time that some blanks are specifically designated as "spin" and some as "casting". For example, under the Bass Blank section, the SB845-3 is a 7.0", 3 piece, 12-25lb blank (RX6 graphite) designated as a spinning rod blank. Scroll down a bit, however, and you see the IC847-3, which i
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