2nd photo of Fenwick repair showing closeup of sleeve.
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First attempt at repairing a broken pole. My brother-in-law turned a 2 piece Fenwick into a 3 piece about 20 inches from the tip. Followed Ralph O'Quinns directions & it passed the bend test.
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Stripper on Rainshadow black matte. Nickel silver hardware w/chrome s foot guides. No wrap finish yet.
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HT Metallic Aquamarine & Silver. Rainshadow black matte w/nickel silver hardware.
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Peter, Have you tried double clicking on the black rectangular buttons at the top? Mel
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Alan I agree with DR. I'm certainly no expert but I would lay down a new coat of finish over the sanded area before I reapplied the new decal. Maybe wet sanding with the 1500 grit would be smooth enough but I think the waterslide instructions say to apply the decals over a coat of finish. Maybe DR has a thought or experience on this. If you could apply a new decal to the sanded area, it wou
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I built a very crude spinning rod almost 40 years ago. I caught a lot of fish with that rod & I still have it. It doesn't go fishing with me but I still have it. I didn't build any other rods until about a year ago. I had purchased a Fenwick 4 piece fiberglass fly rod at an @#$%& a number of years ago & it had been sitting around. I got a bug one day & ended up building a new rod
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Dave, I ream preformed cork handles by eye. One trick I tried was to center the butt section of the blank over the hole in the corresponding end of the preformed handle( butt end blank to butt end handle). I then took a very sharp pencil & drew a circle around the blank so that I had a circle around the hole in the handle. If the circle looked to be centered then I used the circle as a r
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Tom, I saw a discussion some time back on this quandry you are having. I did a search but I guess I didn't have the right words for the search to return what I was looking for. If I remember correctly, one solution was to pass a plastic straw or chopstick through the ring & brace one end of the straw or chopstick on the foregrip & the other end of the straw or chopstick would be bra
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Mick, Thanks for the chuckles. I was just getting ready to go re-wrap the first guide on an ultralight that I am making for a family reunion raffle item. I was putting a decal on the butt section yesterday & was being very careful to get it lined up. I used the reel seat as my reference & as I looked down the rod, there was the guide cocked out about 10 degrees from where it should be
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Thanks Eric, I did a 10 wt for my brother-in-law for salmon fishing & used the red & black twist with no cp. It was subtle but still had color in strong light. Mel Ontario, OR
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Thanks to everyone. I haven't been ignoring you. Went camping & fishing with my wife, son & grandaughter and just got back. You have to get your priorities straight. I think I will flip a coin and do this rod in either blue dunn or teal with a small silver metallic trim. The solution to everything is just build more rods & I will use some glitz in the future. If the rod works
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Billy, Probably just about anyone other than me. People who know how to use a fly rod proficiently amaze me. I have limited skills with a fly rod. I've contributed a lot of flies to brush & trees in the northwest on small rivers & streams.
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I posted a couple of pictures to show the color of guide wraps that I might use on a Rainshadow black matte fly rod. The rod will be a raffle item at my family reunion later this summer. The hardware is nickel silver & the guides are single foot chrome. I've only wrapped the ferrule, the stripper & one guide & I'm concerned about my choice of thread. It's HT metallic aquamarine &a
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I had this same problem on a rod that I did (tacky finish on only one wrap) & I think I discovered my problem. When I mixed my epoxy, the edges of my 2 part puddle may not have been thoroughly mixed in & I dipped my brush or spatula (can't remember what I was using then) into this unmixed area of the epoxy. I pay close attention now to getting the epoxy thoroughly mixed out to the edges
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