Here's what I like on my euro-nymph builds: 10 stripper, Sz. 2 snake, 1/0 for the rest to the tip. If you're euronymphing, you'll have leader running through those 1/0s, but they can handle a 4wt. line. FWIW: I've done single foot and snakes: line sometimes wraps around a single foot, not on the double foots. Recommend Snake brand lite wire for both the double foot or single foot. Have
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Hi Anthony, my journey to building euro nymphing rods is similar to yours, and I also found most 10' blanks to be really just standard fly rods that lacked the euronymphing soft tip. My experiences: -Batson 10' 5wt (the green blank): 5 wt. is too big/stiff for trout euronymphing. -H&H Xi 10' 4wt: definitely lacks the delicacy for maintaining contact w/ nymph rigs; heavy -Pac Bay Quickline
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Herb, what does "FY" stand for with regard to the new blanks?Is that a model they currently have and are melding with the affinity X? Or is FY what they'll be calling the Euro-nymph blanks? Thanks. A.
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That's awesome Herb, thank you! I'll touch base with you via email this weekend. Many thanks. Angelo.
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That would be great, Herb! I'd be interested for sure. A.
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I have built two euro nymphing rods (i.e. to fish with long mono and sighter): H&H 10' 4wt and PacBay Quickline 10'4 wt. Both are okay. At the end of the day, the Quickline was a much nicer rod (much lighter, better finish, quality). However, both were still, in the end, just standard fly rods in a 10' length. I later purchased a dedicated euro nymphing rod (orvis) and without a doubt the tip
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Paul, just to add regarding line weight (i.e. going with 5 over 4 wt), remember that the fly line weight has to do with with the size flies you plan to fish; it won't affect the fight or feel of the fish (rod does that). I use a 9ft 4wt fishing for trout on tailwaters. The flies are generally size 16 down to 22 and I'm using 6x tippet. I don't think you need those sizes or light tippet for ponds
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Very detailed considerations! I'll share a few of my thoughts. 4wt is fine for what you describe for the nymphing side of things, but since you're also doing bass and bluegill in TX, I'd bump it up to 5wt. 5wt will better handle your bead nymph rigs (especially if using two or a dry-dropper). And the 5 wt will more easily handle bigger, more air resistant bluegill and bass patterns. You could
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Hi Mike, what application? I'm assuming trout small streams? My two cents, which may only amount to 1 cent: I've never enjoyed fishing the shorter graphite fly rods (6-7.5 ft) I've built (unity, pac-bay, h&h). They're just kind of stiff or dead, and I think that's because you're never really casting enough line on a small stream to load the rod. I would recommend, and have been doing so m
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Does anyone know what Scott rods uses on the first burl cork ring on some of its handles? I think the G series uses this. It looks like a continuation of the rod finish, but I can't tell if it's urethane or rod finish. It seems to yellow the burl cork ring just a bit. Thanks!
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Mike, I'm with Spencer and Bill, the Pac Bay "N" guides work and look great. I use them on trout sized fly rods (2-5 wt).
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I've built a few euro-nymphing rods with single foots, bought another with snakes, and I can't tell any difference/disadvantages regarding weight or passage of line/knots. At least with regard to how it affects "fishing/using" the rod. I think snakes are great, but definitely recommend going with the lite wires, such as snake brand, batson, or pacbay. You don't always have to hold your
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Hi Ben, as Ron notes, 1/0s are absolutely fine for 4 wt. line. I have them on three builds now and they work great and really keep weight down. Regarding your question: "Would you go from the stripper to 1s or would that be too few guides?" I'm working on a build right now, and the step down between my 10 mm stripper and the next sz.1 is fine. However, I wouldn't reduce your number o
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Mike, I would have to second and third everyone's comments above about snake brand guides and stepping down guide sizes. Just started using Snakes a few builds ago and they are great quality and wrap cleanly. You should consider the lite wire type for a 4 wt. Regarding your question, "What are you recommendations for a nice reel seat that is not flush mount for this 4 weight build?&quo
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Dale, one thing to make sure is that any blank you choose is designed for "euro nymph" style. I've built 3 euros on 10'4wt. blanks, but these really were just standard fly rod blanks. I customized them, reduced weight and liked the results on those, but they were still a little tip stiff. Finally bough a dedicated euro-nymphing rod, and, yeah, it has way better (softer) in the tip neede
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Dale, I did same as Bill mentions above on my last euro-nymph build. One 8mm stripper, 3, 2, 1, then all 1/0s with Snake brand LITE wire. Honestly, when I euronymph, it's pretty much only mono running through the guides, and the small snakes can easily hand a competition fly line or even a 3-4 weight. I thought the 1/0s were going to be too small, but really glad I went with that. They're ligh
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Thanks all for the continued recommendations! These sound great and looking forward trying them out this weekend.
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Thanks! Both sound like great approaches. Forgot to mention that I plan to bore on the lathe. And yes, Tom, I do have a self-centering chuck. I like that idea since it's less moving around. I'll try them out.
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Hi all, Sorry if this is noob question. I'm going to turn some wood fly reel seats for the first time from 2" square stock and was wondering what might be the best work flow: 1) bore the square stock, put on a mandrel, then do final shape/size 2) chuck stock between centers, shape to final size, then bore it to fit rod? 3) or maybe a hybrid approach--rough the blank to round, bore it
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