Hope this works on top of whatever is used for factory guide wraps. I just touched up the scraped areas, and did cover the nicked area with a layer of thread and permabond. I sanded with 600 paper first and cleaned it up. So far, so good. Looks like it will take 3 or more coats. Do I need to coat the entire blank section where I've touched up with permabond?
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Thanx for the input. I use flex coat or classic coat for my wraps. It gets trashed on the rail ride, but is easily repaired. I don't use a coating on the rest of the rod blank. Should I? I have refinished some old keepsakes (Grandpa's Saber Strokers) with permagloss, using coffee filter paper to apply, with good results. Haven't always had 100% bonding, probably due to poor preperation on
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I underwrap the guides on my heavy saltwater rods. I prefer A thread, and after burnishing, have good results. West Coast style tuna fishing has had my rod scrapped on the rail, when getting out of tangles, or just getting whooped by a large fish. This usually happens between the hypalon and the first 2 guides. The stripper is usually just an inch or so off the hypalon. I was considering u
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I also had a warrentee claim on a GUSA. My supplier had quite a back log of claims and other history with them, so I don't know why it took so long, but maybe there's issues I'm not aware of. I got the rod back from my supplier and sent it to Gusa. As time dragged on, I approached my first trip of the season. Gusa over night aired the Rod to me so I'd have it for my trip. More than I expec
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Got to fish my 670-8, cut about 4" on the tip. (I don't know why). Static loaded the guided placement. I found it to be a great 30-40# jig rod. The downside is this E glass stick is heavy. It loaded parabolic, keeping more of the guides on the bottom loaded. Of course, I got a ration from several opinionated people on the boat. I and they found it cast a sardine equally as well as
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Thanks for the response. I may add it to the first coat then, but will follow with a second coat of clear. This will be my second acid wrap, and anything goes. I'll probably wait to do the decorative butt wrap.
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I'm finishing up the wraps on a black overwrap with metalic underwrap and thought that glitter may just jaz up the black. On which coating would I add the extra fine glitter? My thought was to firt put on a lite coat to soak into the wraps. Then do a glitter coat over the black. With a final coat.
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Thanx Tom. I considered that. I had read a thread about a rod breaking, presumably because the line didn't contact the first guide, and created too much stress on the blank. As this section of the rod, is barely flexing on this blank, I don't think it will be a concern.
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I layed out a CJBF70H, which is a fast action composit for 50# and did a static guide placement with the guides on the top like a conventional. I expected this to place the guides to properly load the blank. They came out pretty close to a factory wrap placement. I then flipped all but the stripper to 180. Distance from the stripper to the first guide at 180 is 10". I then loaded the ro
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The "4" in the series numbers applies to how fast the rod is, and runs the same for Calstar and Seekers rods. A glass 6460XH is a good 60# stick. The 660XH is also, but bends more parabolic towards the butt. Same with a 6455 vs 655. Faster shut off with the "4" in the numbers. Ditto for the Graphiters. A 7460H will do about 5# more drag than the 760H, and shuts off furth
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Thanx, I'll shorten up that distance.
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On a conventional wrap, the first guide back from the tip wants to be at about 4", the second about 5" more, and the 3rd, 5 to six depending on the weight I've put on the tip. I'll be fishing the rod at 15 to 25# of drag range, and on a conventional wrap, would want the guides spaced for clearance that way. Since I'm doing a spiral bumper wrap, does that change? I'm not going to ha
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A friend just got back from his tour of Bagdad, and had most of his stuff in long term storage, which is not accessable until he unloads it all. He had a 755H made up during the week. Good thing we checked the rollers and cleaned off the coating that had jammed 3 rollers. He also had a 6455XXH that's a couple years old, his old trolling rod. I don't think he ever really used it because the
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I'm going to do guide placement on a 7' seeker G somethingorother H. The 50# graphite 7'. I'm really thinking about doing a bumper guide wrap. So far, most of the bend I've been able to get is in the outer 1/3. I'll add weight to 20# tomorrow, but with 10# it's all near the tip. I'm taping the guides on conventional for location, and will rotate the tip and guides to the bottom to wrap. I'
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I was fortunate to get into the West Coast big tuna bite in December and really pull on my gear. The 6455XXH is just too soft for >30# of drag. I broke a 655TSS which was old and maybe took a bump at one time, a bit softer than the Boomer, but not much. I like the Baja Boomer which handles 40+# of drag with more to spare. I don't know about the 7455XXH, but it should have more shut off tha
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I bought a 7' CJBF70H, for a 50# casting rod, and I'm just not feeling the love. It's a pretty stout graphite composite blank and a bit heavier than I wanted. I'm thinking of taking 6" of the butt end and then doing a spiral / bumper guide wrap on it. It's purpose will be winging 4 oz wahoo bombs and jigs, with a Tiburon SST12HS auto shift, that works very well for the application. Tun
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I'm a West coast big boat angler, and have never trolled 30# (except in skiffs around the bays, and never thought about rod action), so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics you desire. I personnally would avoid the L model and go to the 660 or 6460 for 30#. With lighter line like 30#, I generally go to the 64 series, as there's not that much load on my back running 10# of drag. The big
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Thanx. Unfortunately, the decals wereover what appears to be a varnash, with a second coat over the decals. The decals were shot too, and I'm not so interested in keeping them as in keeping grandpa's rods alive for his grandson. The finish is coming off slowly but surely with a dull edge spatula. It's really brittle and just shatters off. I've got all winter, so I'll take my time at it.
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U-40 Perma Gloss is advertized a a precatalyzed, one part uerethane finish. Tough, durable and non-yellowing. Thanx for the point to the article. Has anyone used this product or know where to get a ssuitable 2 part. Seems this has been precatalyzed, so may work the same.
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U-40 Perma Gloss is advertized a a precatalyzed, one part uerethane finish. Tough, durable and non-yellowing. Thanx for the point to the article. Has anyone used this product or know where to get a ssuitable 2 part. Seems this has been precatalyzed, so may work the same.
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I have a couple old sabre chockolate stroker factory wraps. They belonged to a dear friend who passed away, and I need to refinish them for his grandson. The guide wraps are not a problem. The entire blank is covered with a coating that is flaking, peeling, and coming off. It's fairly easy to remove from the blank, but I'll lose the decals with it. With the old finish off, the blank is dull,
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