CLB 806
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Seeker CLB 806 with cord handle, attempt to do wrap from cover of Clemens book
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Thanks for your answers, everyone. I took the coward's way out and used an acrylic sealer that will probably wear out in short order. Only good thing about it is it is water based and thus as easy as painting your floor with water. Just roll it on. The stuff is called SealKrete, and dries to the touch in about 20 minutes, recoat in two hours. I did 4 coats yesterday and called it quits. It
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A bit off topic, perhaps, but here's one: I have had my cement garage workshop floor painted gray for years. Today I had the paint sandblasted off shotblasted, actually, which like sandblasting without the dust) and am deciding on a new coating. Looking for a sturdy clear that doesn't entail the work of epoxy, and can be easily coated over once it chips. Also, a bonus would be one that is r
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You can do a Chevron if you want, with VERY thin seine cord, but the effect is lost unless one looks closely. I prefer to do a simple French spiral knot around that spirals up the grip of the walking stick, or just spiral a cord under a wrap as you go for some texture, if that makes sense. Chuck Horan
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OK, I tried the contact cement and it seems to have worked, with only a very small visible line. Hope it holds up! lol Thank you all for the advice. As always, A1, folks! Chuck
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Building a rod, got a small razor cut in the black hypalon foregrip when the blade slipped cutting off the tape around the end of a decorative wrap. The cut is small probably about 1/4 inch long by 3/16ths deep, but visible. I was thinking about maybe five minute epoxy in the slit, holding together, or maybe a little black sanding dust mixed with rod bond, or...? Any ideas? Thanks a mil
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Building on a Super Seeker for a stand up tuna rod. User will be using a blue Avet Raptor reel. Reel seat is black Alps--couldn't get a perfect match in blue. So, here's the question: The blank is dark red, sort of burgundy/root beer, great color. To my eye, blue thread is not a great match for that blank, but maybe that's just my eye. Any ideas for a colors for the decorative wrap and guid
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I've heard many people say they use a locking wrap because they fear losing a guide when the line gets wrapped around a guide during a cast, or when a lure gets hung up on an underwater obstruction, etc. Insofar as this is the reason, I think the reverse guide method would obviate the problem altogether. You are right about the rod locker situation, though, I imagine.
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It strikes me that installing small running guides on a spinning rod backwards (i.e., with the foot extending toward the rod tip) would likely do away with the need for a security wrap of any sort on these guides. Since the ring is basically 90 degrees from the foot on, say, a small size 6 or less single foot guide, why not just install these backwards, aside from cosmetics? As to the larger gui
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Thanks to all for your perspectives. Roger, I'm having a little problem following your post. Are you saying that in your setup that if you stretch the line out with the reel on the rod, and have the spool at it's highest point (I asume mean the portion of the spool closest to the rod) that the line will pass through the center of the guides? My set usually has the line closest to the botto
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Just a quick question about the butt guide on a spinning rod. I'm building on a Calstar T130 seven foot glass rod, rated 4 to 12 pounds. It can be fished at 10 pounds quite comfortably. I intend to use 8 and 10 pound mono. The largest reel I will use is an Okuma baitrunner reel called a Coronado 50 with a spool outside diameter of 2.08 inches. I am using Fuji BYAG guides, trying to do the
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Billy, I thoughtyou liked Aftcote? Or do you mix it with a harder finish like Threadmaster? I can't remember. I like Aftcote primarily because in my case, at least, it tolerates heat well, and, rightly or wrongly, I tend to flame my wraps a bit heavily. I found that the Threadmaster was clear and very hard, but when overheated, atleast in my case, left a sort of "grabby" finish. M
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Thanks for the advice, folks. Great as usual! Chuck
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Hello, everyone! Just a quick question for you all. I have a couple of rods with very nice long decorative butt wraps upon which the rigors of party boat fishing has taken its toll. In other words, scratched and generally ratty looking. Luckily, the epoxy is thick over the wrap. Any problems with sanding down an old butt wrap and redoing it? These were, I believe, done with Aftcote. I'v
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Hello, all! I want to write my name and type of blank on the butt wrap section of a rod. I want to use a paint pen called Deco Color, in gold. This dries to the touch fairly quickly. The signature will be over a section of wrap that is black, and has a nice smooth Aftcote finish on it. Question: Do you folks think it will be necessary to put a coat of CP over the inscription to prevent the
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Gentlemen, thank you all for your input. The rod is now officially under construction with the BMNAGs. Thanks again! Chuck
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Melting. We have lots of fires out here. LOL BMNAGs on 80 pound tuna rods? Didn't know that. I was under the assumption the suggested use was for lighter stuff. Live and learn! How goes it back there, buddy? I see you are still cranking out those beautiful wraps! My son is working on one of yours right now. This is his first closed wrap. Or will be if it closes. LOL Thanks for
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Hello, friends! I'm building a Calstar 850M for a friend. He will use it to cast light to medium surface irons, ala Tady 45s, Salaz 7x lites, etc. for Pacific Yellowtail, etc. The blank is 8 1/2 feet, graphite, very light in weight, rated 20-40 pounds. He wants to keep it light. He will fish 30 pound mono on this one. No reel seat, cord or shrink wrap handle. Will FUJI BMNAGs be st
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Has anybody tried to get on the Calstar website recently? I was looking for specs on a blank and it looks like their website has been hijacked or something. It leads to another business search engine of some sort. Odd. Chuck Horan
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That would be great, Eugene! Please send it to me at zack2@verizon.net. Thanks, buddy! Billy, thanks advice as well. I agree with you on the butt guide. I'm gonna build a SS36 that I'm getting from @#$%& as my next project. CH
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I have three suggestions: 1. Bright neon green in nylon, olive green ncp, and rust ncp! Oh yeah!! 2. olive, metallic gold, and pink 3. almond, gold and yellow
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Anybody out there have a suggested starting point for the guide spacing for a Super Seeker LM9? This particular rod will be built conventionally, not spiral wrapped. Thanks a million everybody! Chuck Horan
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I used white spray paint made by Testors. The number is RC251. It is the white paint called "Sprint White" that they apparently use to spray on the inside of clear plastic model racing cars. It is suppposed to be very flexible. I can tell you one thing, it is very very easy to work with. Dries very very fast to the touch, and you can wrap thread over it in a couple of hours if you
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Hope it works out, Ted. I noticed one mistake in my post. In step one, I burnished and THEN removed the second thread. I look forward to seeing the rod. Chuck
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Hello, folks. I've been experimenting a bit with trying out some tiger wraps, and I may have stumbled on something interesting. Others have probably already tried this, but if not, here goes: 1. On the first (under) wrap, instead of using two threads such as white and black, paint the blank white, then wrap two threads (just like in the overwrap), black and any color you want. Then remov
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Thanks for the replies, folks. I am going to try fly tying bobbins and see if I can handle it that way. Roger, I think that your way is good too, as long as the wrap isn't too long (and thus requires lots of thread). I've been trying to do it by taping one strand (call it color two) to the blank, and keeping color one on the spool. That is really tough when it comes to trying to wrap OVER t
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Sean, that is EXACTLY the type of wrap I'm talking about! I really hope Mr. Endres will chime in. It may be that the spools have to be removed from the tensioner or something, and crossed back and forth, A wrapping over B, then B wrapping over A. If I'm not mistaken, the procedure outlined in Rodmaker is not designed to produce the wrap you reference. At least I believe it allows you to d
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Hello, all. I'm having a problem. Trying to do a fade on a portion of a wrap. I can do this easily when I do, for example, a diamond wrap or chevron based wrap, since I cut bands of thread to use. Here, however, I am simply trying to fade on a portion of the blank, such as a guide wrap, with the thread turning around the blank. For example, I'd like to wrap 5 turns of red, one turn of ye
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