I am in for this. Have been wanting to make the KY event, but dates haven't aligned.
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Tom - Another great show. Thanks for all the hard work, rodmakers reception, and pulling together a great event. For the vendors - Thanks for all your hard work. No easy feat to pack up the shop and move it across the country, then stand on your feet all day for two days. Without the tireless effort from each of you, the Expo wouldn't be what it is. The extremely nice door prizes and Show Sal
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Robert, The butt dia. is spot on to catalog spec. Tip size has been 4.5-5 and truly extra fast action. I haven't put the blank on a scale, but judging by weight in hand the catalog spec appears accurate. Built three out to date and blanks have been very consistent.
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The umbx-s700m-b makes a killer DS stick.
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Joel, Good advice above. I am located in mid TN area. Drop me an email.
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PacBay NCP Royal Blue matches the Mudhole UK logo really nice.
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The time it is taking you to apply is exceeding the pot life of the mix. Heating the high build prior to mixing accelerates the "kick" time. Either reduce / eliminate the heat, mix in two batches, or work faster. Another option would be testing other brands of high build to see if you could find a pot life more suitable to your application method.
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I envy folks that have the dexterity to do L to R and R to L with same quality / speed either direction. Right to Left and my motor skills are an ugly combination. Do what works best for you.
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Bill, I am located in the middle TN. Willing to help anyway I can. Drop me an e-mail.
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I mostly use braid for pitchin / flippin and use a mono filler for about 1/2 the spool. Any of the braids work OK for me in those applications. For true casting use, the Stren has been the friendliest I have tried to date. It seems to hold shape a little better and not flatten out as much, which helps with the digging in issue. Power Pro is my go to for spinning use. I haven't used any of the rec
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Most bass guys are fairly particular on handle / seat set up. Get that input and make suggestions to improve ergonomics (that fit the clients particular needs / wants).
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The 5mm might be a bit low depending on line type, line weight, reel height, and load profile of the rod. The rest will work fine. A static load test using the reel / line combo would reveal any issues with the 5mm butt guide. You may want to consider using a std braced frame tip for flipping.
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As Emory stated, no detectable spine would suggest every aspect of the design / manufacturing process was dead on the money. A perfect blank if you will.
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The RX7 3wt has a faster action and the tip settles out quicker than the TFO. Haven't built on the St. Croix so no comment.
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Would a small dovetail bit the same width as the slot give the undercut you need at the back end - cut in about half the diameter of the dovetail bit maybe.
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Tim - Sent you an e-mail.
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On a standard unified thread, a 1.630 minor correlates with a 1 11/16" thread. Unable to help much more than that without more info or seeing the actual thread.
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Try exhaling on the bubbles or lightly blowing through a straw across the bubbles before applying the heat. Some finishes are a little more tolerant than others of direct heat. Too much heat just adds to the bubble pandamonium.
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I like for the butt on my crankin stick to hit the meaty part of forearm 3" short of my elbow. Lets me pin the butt between my forearm and ribcage to take pressure off my wrist during a loooong day crankin. Thats just my preference and puts the start of my reel seat at 10.75" from the butt. I prefer split grip with a fairly robust butt diameter and the OD of the main grip to fill up the
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Agree with Joshua. The blue blanks of which you speak are RX6. The blanks Utmost listed are the RX7 - OG, MB, and Matte.
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An excellent article on this very subject in the Rodmaker Magazine. The info provided in the magazine is a ton more valuable than the cost of the subscription. Step by step photos along with the text on most every subject covered eliminates any guesswork or misinterpretation. One of the board sponsors - Mudhole - had a 101 type video posted on their site. Any local builders you can ask for a show
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Google stabilized corn cobs. Several of the pen blank folks carry it.
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Some wet/dry has silicon carbide grit - others aluminum oxide grit. The SC grit is normally industrial grade for metal finishing though.
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Thanks Guys. I used Titebond for the rings and Rod Bond for the EVA to the ring.
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Is titebond an acceptable agent for bonding EVA to cork?
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@#$%& still shows them on the website.
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Shop around for a used lathe - South Bend, Atlas, etc. The lathes you mentioned will require tuning / mechanical mods to acheive accuracy. Avoid the rocker type tool post if possible. It is a good tool post, but you will end up wanting an indexable post for spped / effeciency. If the really small stuff is all you will do take a look at Sherline and Taig.
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Thanks for clarifying Tom. I thought I had implied the one guide may have taken out a couple more, but don't see it happening without solid mass on the opposing end.
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Actually cut a Batson 4.0 (bumper guide on spiral flip stick) off the rod with braid. Unseen wind knot around the bumper - hook set - 2 lb fish- braid cut the quide slick as could be. Clipped it off just above the last locker on the Forhan. The foot stayed attached to the rod. No damage to any following gudies, but did eliminate my habit of fingering the line when flippin with braid. Something we
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I just finished a 6'6" 4 power moderate action for this very application. 25, 16, 3s to the tip. 20lb braid with fluoro leader. Purple on black blank. Call it the brusier cause it puts a hurt on slop fish. Perfect for fluke, dinger,wacky rig, etc. in the grass. Gets the lighter baits to the holes and has enough guts to get the fish out. Thanks to Bob M at Custom Tackle on a dinger recommend,
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