Thanks all!
Forum: rodboard

Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You should have just bought a tip-=top one size > larger > Herb Is the rod still salvageable at this point? Would brushing 2-part epoxy on the sanded part help at all? If not I figure at this rate glue the tip back on and fish it and see what happens lol - at least I got my money back so it's not like
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Absolutely not. > Quote "I'm just afraid that the integrity of that > part of the rod might now be diminished". And - > yes you did. > Herb Darn... I was a bit too eager with this one. The part where it broke had one or two very thin graphite 'strands' coming off if I were to light
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Hey all, Sorry dumb question alert lol: am curious if applying flex coat (particularly on a graphite rod that has been sanded to the point that the satin/matte finish was removed) would help strengthen or reinforce that part of the rod in the case that some graphite might have been removed through sanding. This is in the context of the tip section of a rod that broke off and where the second g
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Thanks Roger. I think I get what you're saying. At this point, I don't have a reamer and haven't really looking into DIYing one. I was able to force the fore grip on with a jar opener and paper towel, and it wasn't *too* bad so figure I can do the same with the rear grip. Although, being how tight it is on the blank, I wonder if too much epoxy will get pushed out once I apply it to the blank and
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Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just an idea, get a OLD blank section that fits > over the butt an install the grip on it , build > the but on the section , then epoxy the section on > the blank it might work I never tried it but > sounds good , remember to dry fit every thing > first , Thanks for the suggestion - I
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Thanks guys! I ended up just forcing the fore-grip (which is the more stubborn piece as far as I can tell) down with pressure, a paper towel and rubber jar opener grip, and a bit of lubrication from some 91% isopropyl alcohol - took some elbow grease and lots of twisting but I was able to get it down! I figure I can just do the same thing for the rear grip. I have about 3-4" of the repair bl
Forum: rodboard

Hey all, I'm repairing the butt-end of a 2pc rod (slightly larger than .5") and bought some EVA foam that has a .5" ID. This section of the rod has a large guide on the upper-part that I would prefer not to remove and there's nothing wrong with it, so the grips would be going on from the butt-end AFAIK. The problem is with getting them to slip over since the ID is slightly less. I do
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil Erickson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I have successfully removed tip tops with the > > rubber band method that were adhered with epoxy > > and CA glue. They both will release with > carefully > > applied heat. > > >
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Thanks for clarifying - I'll follow your advice Roger! BTW: if I'm measuring a 14-15mm or ~.50" diameter of the blank along last 14" of the butt of the rod and I'm planning to get those EVA Foam grips, what inner diameter should I go with? They offer grips with pre-bored holes of the following I.D.s: .25", .375" or .50" - best to stick with .50"? Or go smalle
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Hey all, I'm curious about this because I have a friend who received a mass-produced rod from Penn with a busted rod tip guide (not the rod itself but the guide is bent and just needs to be replaced). Initially I thought you could take a razor to score the epoxy and remove any thread, then take a lighter to it and twist the tip right off. He sent me this video though, which warns against doing
Forum: rodboard

Thanks all. I'm deciding on the grips and seat to put on it. I was probably just going to order a Fuji DPSM seat - any pointers though on what size for this rod? I was considering the DPSM16 or DPSM17 but originally it had a HAPS-18 sized reel seat on it. I mostly have fished this with a 4000 sized reel but I think it could take as low as 2000-2500 up to 5000 (although I never fished a reel bigge
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just a suggestion; I would bend the rod over my > head at fairly good bend that would be just a > little over the stress that a fish would put on it > to make sure the rod doesn't just snap after all > the effort to repair. If it is hardy enough to > withstand a stress test then it should
Forum: rodboard

Thanks guys. So no need to cut off any of the cracked rod portion? Here's a picture of a blank section of an old travel rod: And with the section inside (it's pretty long and goes way further up than just the bottom cracked area):
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Thanks so much guys - super helpful advice. Norm is right - the cost of supplies, even a few, may exceed the cost of just having someone repair the rod(s). I actually have another rod where I need to have a guide replaced. I actually purchased the guide for that rod and got a couple of guides from a generous Bloodydecks member in San Diego who sent them my way as they were spares for him. What I
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Also, is there an simple way to remove the old foam and tape on the blank from where I removed the grips/seat? That stuff is really stubborn and I'm having a heck of a time removing it...
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Hey all, I have an old graphite rod (Olympic 065GN made in Korea - can't find anything about it) that has a cracked end. There are about a couple cracks about 2"-3" down to the end of it - I removed the grip and reel seat as I was intending to replace all that regardless. I've replaced the reel seat/grips on another rod previously but have pretty limited experience otherwise. Her
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Thanks Norm! I do have a cousin in New Orleans but that's not going to help much lol. Some of the guys who I've met who do rod building as more of a hobby are probably the ones to ask. It's just that most of them are either super busy or are a bit far away. I'm not in the biggest rush since I admittedly have more rods that I "need" - I might be interested in this kit! I do like the DIY
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremy, have you ever wrapped a rod before? If > not, then trying to duplicate the guide wrap shown > in your picture will take some knowledge on how to > perform that wrap. It’s not that hard to do but > you will need to know how to do it. If you are > planning on trying to build your own rod
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Also this:
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I wonder if this would do the trick:
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For the most part silver metallic is silver > metallic, and black is black from all > manufacturers. Those are two colors that do not > vary much at all, so any manufacturer will be > fine. I have not found a brand of thread that > wraps any better or worse than any other. Most > people pic
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Is there any brand(s) recommended for a quick fix like this? I seem to be having a harder time finding a matching metallic thread. I'm not looking to invest a ton at this point - I have maybe one other rod where I am looking to replace/rewind a guide back on so I didn't want to overbuy on the supplies. I'm assuming a small watercolor brush, Flex Coat, superglue, and the black and metallic silver
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Size is not that important, just match the color. > Going to be difficult to get a size because of the > epoxy penetration, making the thread appear thick > and wiry. In most cases the metallic silver trim > will be size A. For he black size A, B, or D will > look fine. The size B and D are eas
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I added a new photo to the album with the threads straightened out also with a standard 2 pencil in there for scale, if that may help with determining things.
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Thanks Don! So Size D you're thinking? I can try to get some better pics, although I'm not sure what I should put them next to for 'scale'
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Hey all, Was wondering if anyone could help identify what size threads these are. I was looking to wind on a new a guide in place of one that I took off a factory rod - it's a bass rated rod I think like 8-17lbs or something by All Star...
Forum: rodboard