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Current Page: 1 of 1
Results 1 - 23 of 23
7 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks Roger. I think I get what you're saying. At this point, I don't have a reamer and haven't really looking into DIYing one. I was able to force the fore grip on with a jar opener and paper towel, and it wasn't *too* bad so figure I can do the same with the rear grip. Although, being how tight it is on the blank, I wonder if too much epoxy will get pushed out once I apply it to the blank and
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just an idea, get a OLD blank section that fits > over the butt an install the grip on it , build > the but on the section , then epoxy the section on > the blank it might work I never tried it but > sounds good , remember to dry fit every thing > first , Thanks for the suggestion - I
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks guys! I ended up just forcing the fore-grip (which is the more stubborn piece as far as I can tell) down with pressure, a paper towel and rubber jar opener grip, and a bit of lubrication from some 91% isopropyl alcohol - took some elbow grease and lots of twisting but I was able to get it down! I figure I can just do the same thing for the rear grip. I have about 3-4" of the repair bl
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Hey all, I'm repairing the butt-end of a 2pc rod (slightly larger than .5") and bought some EVA foam that has a .5" ID. This section of the rod has a large guide on the upper-part that I would prefer not to remove and there's nothing wrong with it, so the grips would be going on from the butt-end AFAIK. The problem is with getting them to slip over since the ID is slightly less. I do
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Jeremy Lee
herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil Erickson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I have successfully removed tip tops with the > > rubber band method that were adhered with epoxy > > and CA glue. They both will release with > carefully > > applied heat. > > >
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks for clarifying - I'll follow your advice Roger! BTW: if I'm measuring a 14-15mm or ~.50" diameter of the blank along last 14" of the butt of the rod and I'm planning to get those EVA Foam grips, what inner diameter should I go with? They offer grips with pre-bored holes of the following I.D.s: .25", .375" or .50" - best to stick with .50"? Or go smalle
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Hey all, I'm curious about this because I have a friend who received a mass-produced rod from Penn with a busted rod tip guide (not the rod itself but the guide is bent and just needs to be replaced). Initially I thought you could take a razor to score the epoxy and remove any thread, then take a lighter to it and twist the tip right off. He sent me this video though, which warns against doing
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks all. I'm deciding on the grips and seat to put on it. I was probably just going to order a Fuji DPSM seat - any pointers though on what size for this rod? I was considering the DPSM16 or DPSM17 but originally it had a HAPS-18 sized reel seat on it. I mostly have fished this with a 4000 sized reel but I think it could take as low as 2000-2500 up to 5000 (although I never fished a reel bigge
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just a suggestion; I would bend the rod over my > head at fairly good bend that would be just a > little over the stress that a fish would put on it > to make sure the rod doesn't just snap after all > the effort to repair. If it is hardy enough to > withstand a stress test then it should
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks guys. So no need to cut off any of the cracked rod portion? Here's a picture of a blank section of an old travel rod: And with the section inside (it's pretty long and goes way further up than just the bottom cracked area):
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks so much guys - super helpful advice. Norm is right - the cost of supplies, even a few, may exceed the cost of just having someone repair the rod(s). I actually have another rod where I need to have a guide replaced. I actually purchased the guide for that rod and got a couple of guides from a generous Bloodydecks member in San Diego who sent them my way as they were spares for him. What I
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Also, is there an simple way to remove the old foam and tape on the blank from where I removed the grips/seat? That stuff is really stubborn and I'm having a heck of a time removing it...
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Hey all, I have an old graphite rod (Olympic 065GN made in Korea - can't find anything about it) that has a cracked end. There are about a couple cracks about 2"-3" down to the end of it - I removed the grip and reel seat as I was intending to replace all that regardless. I've replaced the reel seat/grips on another rod previously but have pretty limited experience otherwise. Her
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks Norm! I do have a cousin in New Orleans but that's not going to help much lol. Some of the guys who I've met who do rod building as more of a hobby are probably the ones to ask. It's just that most of them are either super busy or are a bit far away. I'm not in the biggest rush since I admittedly have more rods that I "need" - I might be interested in this kit! I do like the DIY
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremy, have you ever wrapped a rod before? If > not, then trying to duplicate the guide wrap shown > in your picture will take some knowledge on how to > perform that wrap. It’s not that hard to do but > you will need to know how to do it. If you are > planning on trying to build your own rod
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Also this:
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
I wonder if this would do the trick:
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For the most part silver metallic is silver > metallic, and black is black from all > manufacturers. Those are two colors that do not > vary much at all, so any manufacturer will be > fine. I have not found a brand of thread that > wraps any better or worse than any other. Most > people pic
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Is there any brand(s) recommended for a quick fix like this? I seem to be having a harder time finding a matching metallic thread. I'm not looking to invest a ton at this point - I have maybe one other rod where I am looking to replace/rewind a guide back on so I didn't want to overbuy on the supplies. I'm assuming a small watercolor brush, Flex Coat, superglue, and the black and metallic silver
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Size is not that important, just match the color. > Going to be difficult to get a size because of the > epoxy penetration, making the thread appear thick > and wiry. In most cases the metallic silver trim > will be size A. For he black size A, B, or D will > look fine. The size B and D are eas
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
I added a new photo to the album with the threads straightened out also with a standard 2 pencil in there for scale, if that may help with determining things.
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Thanks Don! So Size D you're thinking? I can try to get some better pics, although I'm not sure what I should put them next to for 'scale'
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Jeremy Lee
Hey all, Was wondering if anyone could help identify what size threads these are. I was looking to wind on a new a guide in place of one that I took off a factory rod - it's a bass rated rod I think like 8-17lbs or something by All Star...
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 1 of 1

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