Now I understand what Lance meant by "whats a blank". I finished Part 1. Clearly from the comments here 7' is a good length. There were some really interesting statements made in Common Cents Part 1article. I enjoyed it and for sure its plain to see why there can be so much confusion and at least there is a means to sort it out....sort of
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thanks a lot. Thats a bunch of good info as I was real unsure of just how to ask the question, checking out Common cents info right now. thanks a lot ya'll. Tom
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and if you use one of the rubber cup type of chuck where you slip the handle into the hole it seems like its nice a "stuck" and will stay stuck. NO IT WONT!!!! tape it to the chuck because it will walk out and really bring you to tears when you see what happen to your beautiful apoxy job.
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you will be required to pay excise tax.
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Ive read many time the blank doesn't know if its a bait caster, or a spinning rod. Ive used the same blank for 2 bait casters and 2 spinning rods. I love all four. Considering nothing else what if I used the same blank to make a fly rod? Would picking the line weight be a trial and error thing and still use the same method to space the guides. I wade creeks for small mouth and would use the fly
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I dont have it at my finger tips but in the last issue of RB there is a picture of a rod that Tom K. did that shows an apoxy job like Ive never seen. Flawless is an understatement. Flat, clear, minimal, truly its art in itself. Cant find the pic now but if I do I'll let you know, or maybe it was in the photo gallery...cant remember. Also in the library of this forum is his method/technique he d
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TKirkman had a very good article in the library regarding this. This is the method that Mike is refering to and I use it exclusively and it makes all apoxy issues go away. "dump it on", "let it sag", "wick it off", rotate 180, let it sag, wick it off. Its the fastest most effective method of applying apoxy and you will end up with flat, no bubbles, nice looking apoxy
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Im sure you'll find out!I I use Recoil guides and have pulled the eye from the barrel on the tip top and had to recrimp it. I think for the mosrt part there pretty durable.
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Graphite-USA ...Rootbeer... Very Nice Color...
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Ive found that on my wrapper when i made it I have a very light "bungie" or like a long rubber band I'll call it and it serves no other purpose than to prevent the lose of tension if I decide I want to let go of the blank for a moment. Usually once I begin to wrap I dont stop until I tie-off. It runs from the base up and over the blanks and I snug it slightly. The only thing is it requi
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just received my Vol 9 #5. This is a second issue of this one I have recieved recieving the first copy about 2 weeks ago. My wife did a renew to my subscription about a week ago
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Go to the library or buy Vol 9 #1 "Better Apoxy Finish" back issue it is the best apoxy guideline you will ever get. Read it ,follow it, and forget all the rest. Tom Kirkman has written the Holy Grail of how to apply the goop right the first time. His work speaks for itsself and this tells you how he does it. He takes the pain out of it all and turns it into a joy. Why even bother with
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Dave, Ill jump in here. The last 2 rods I made were 6 and 6 1/2 ft spinning. Heres the deal in my opinion. Rec's there too damn expensive but I was aware of that when I went into it. Wanted to find out for myself. Check out the price of the 30mm. I have about $70.00 in guides on one rod times 2. Not complaining. They are very light and you'll be very pleased with that. Anyone who has
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Go to the library or back issue Volumn 9 #1 and look for Tom Kirkmans Better Apoxy Finish p 26. This nails it. and it is important that the rotation is in increment of 180 and he explains why. Its made all the difference in how I now apply my apoxy. It works especially well in leveling off open wraps. Be ready to spend about 2 hours getting ready to let it dry but every minute is worth it. Tom al
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I too grieved over this. (Well not actually grieved) Then when pointed to Vol 9 - #1 "Better Apoxy Finish" p. 26 RodMaker back issue, after reading it I knew something good was about to happen. First I applied this technique to my guide wraps. The end results were as different as night and day. It impacted all aspects of applying apoxy, footballing, airbubbles, barreling disappe
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For sure the cooler you keep the bit when sharpening the longer the edge will last and be sure to keep the bits cutting edge at center or a smidgeon below center of the material centerline when turning. If you get above center it might feel like the tool is dull (actually it will dulll the tool quickly). I use a cup wheel that is diamond impregnated for my carbide bits but it isnt really necessar
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Its in your email actually its www.blackbearpontoons.com. Used to be in the list and now it not.
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Thats the one. Thanks Jim
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Does anyone know who stocks camo blanks . It must be difficult to process as it seems like very few if any blank makers stay at it for very long. I would guess the demand would be there maybe thats not the case. Sure could enjoy finding a source
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I found a neat little hook keeper from REC (left) that has an anvil and ring combination thats lets you wrap both sides of the ring which is all that is exposed when done and lays down nicely when not in use. Ive r eally come to prefer it over the folding type.
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It was right before my eyes
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Sure cant find one. Can anyone point me to it. It must be right in front me! thanks
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if it fails wouldnt that mean it came loose? Problem solved! If you can move it move it now, problem solved! Id just keep a second tiptop in my tackle box with some tip glue and it it comes off throw it away and repalce it with your spare.
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Thanks guys its a done deal and came out real good. I used the ka-bob skewer approach. should be dry in time to hit the creek tomorrow.
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Thanks Mr. Mel that makes sense to me. I'll let you know what happens.
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I have wrapped and am ready to apply the finish. The hook keeper is a little different than the typical folding or wire loop. Its from REC. I'll try to describe it. Imagine a flat anvil 2mm wide by 10mm long by .3mm thick with a "bridge" in the middle. A small closed loop slips onto the anvil which is then wrapped on both sides of the bridge and wala a hook keeper is born. Im imaginin
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I followed this procedure on my last build and was vey pleased at how much better the finished rod looked. In a moment or when I get your opinion on what I am thinking I'll finish my next. Using Flex Coats formula for thinning (.5cc acetone / 6cc mix) will i still be able to use the method you discribe for application? I would like to end up with only a single coat and minimum build-up. I am u
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Does anyone know of a source for colored Delrin? 1"dia. round stock. White is standard and I have some black but I cant find any reference to any other colors. I have found it is very easy to machine and makes excellent trim pieces and reel seat bushings. I need a red or bronze shade for the rod Im making. Im using a rootbeer colored Graphite_USA blank. Ive considered hardwood and staini
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Ive only just finished my 2nd rod the first being a casting and the second a spinning. I never really considered adding weight but relied upon a combination of guides (used Rec on both) and reel seat positioning. As Spence mentioned trying various arrangements using masking tape to determine where everything should be to create the "right' feel seemed to be the key. I found that the stati
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What is it all about and how should it be checked ? When I built my second rod I was attempting to keep the weight slightly in front of the reel thinking it would assist in loading the tip during the cast. Seems what the rod will be used for would play into it quite a bit maybe even being the more important factor. Maybe another way of asking the same question would be when isnt a rod well balanc
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